Just adjusted the Apexi, I will have it back on the dyno again soon as I'm curious to see what it's putting out now.
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Here's what I did ... the ATP inlet kit is a bit of a nightmare, the cast oval pipe under the shifter cables etc., I did try and fit it, I got it all in but a metal water pipe is right in the way and it was jammed against the left shifter cable, which meant I couldn't get the car into gear, so out it all came again!
Star had already fitted a steel plate with 4 holes in it, which moved the shifter cables 2-3 inches away from the turbo entry - I refitted that and found that an ATP 2.5-3.0" high temp rubber elbow fitted in the gap nicely. The GT2X entry is not 2.5" so I used the ATP adapter collar (machined collar with seal and grub screw to secure it on the outside), then the 2.5-3.0" elbow was a good, tight fit. Looking down into the pipe it looks like:
Not ideal but offers alot more airflow and room compared to the 225 hose. The elbow is this one:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=ATP-SIL-240&Category_Code=SIL-90EL
The rest was easy, 3" hardpipe fits in the rest of the way up, it's a little short so I used a 76mm alloy joiner to lengthen it. As you can see, it comes up here and from there it's just a silicone coupler onto the ATP hardpipe bend towards the MAF.
When you compare it to the 225 hose the bottom half is at least an inch wider right down to the turbo, my butt dyno tells me it has really helped too, the Astra VXR I recently destroyed is testament to that!
Here's some pics of it all fitted and complete:
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp1.jpg
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp2.jpg
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp3.jpg
ATP told me that the 225 hose was too restrictive and that a larger intake would yield better results, I now believe them 100%, so if you're getting a GT2X don't bother with the 225 hose. So in summary the bits I used to get this inlet together were:
ATP GT2X inlet collar adapter
ATP 2.5-3.0" high temp rubber elbow
ATP 3" inlet kit
3" alloy hose joiner
Steel mounting plate with 4 holes to move shifter bracket away from turbo.
I bought everything directly from ATP, the 3" inlet kit cost me £180 including shipping from the USA and arrived in 3 days - my tuner wanted £300 for the same kit!!!
Hope this info and pics helps.
Star had already fitted a steel plate with 4 holes in it, which moved the shifter cables 2-3 inches away from the turbo entry - I refitted that and found that an ATP 2.5-3.0" high temp rubber elbow fitted in the gap nicely. The GT2X entry is not 2.5" so I used the ATP adapter collar (machined collar with seal and grub screw to secure it on the outside), then the 2.5-3.0" elbow was a good, tight fit. Looking down into the pipe it looks like:
Not ideal but offers alot more airflow and room compared to the 225 hose. The elbow is this one:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=ATP-SIL-240&Category_Code=SIL-90EL
The rest was easy, 3" hardpipe fits in the rest of the way up, it's a little short so I used a 76mm alloy joiner to lengthen it. As you can see, it comes up here and from there it's just a silicone coupler onto the ATP hardpipe bend towards the MAF.
When you compare it to the 225 hose the bottom half is at least an inch wider right down to the turbo, my butt dyno tells me it has really helped too, the Astra VXR I recently destroyed is testament to that!
Here's some pics of it all fitted and complete:
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp1.jpg
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp2.jpg
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp3.jpg
ATP told me that the 225 hose was too restrictive and that a larger intake would yield better results, I now believe them 100%, so if you're getting a GT2X don't bother with the 225 hose. So in summary the bits I used to get this inlet together were:
ATP GT2X inlet collar adapter
ATP 2.5-3.0" high temp rubber elbow
ATP 3" inlet kit
3" alloy hose joiner
Steel mounting plate with 4 holes to move shifter bracket away from turbo.
I bought everything directly from ATP, the 3" inlet kit cost me £180 including shipping from the USA and arrived in 3 days - my tuner wanted £300 for the same kit!!!
Hope this info and pics helps.
good writeup robdon, just by looking at your pics you can see how the 3" inlet would have much better airflow capablities over the 225 version
Nice one rob spot on. Do you have any pics of the steel plate fitment and a pic of the engine bay from the top.
I'm away at the moment and can't visualise where the plate would go.
cheers
I'm away at the moment and can't visualise where the plate would go.
cheers
The flat plate is under the factory bracket that holds the shifter cables in place, the plate is bolted to the mounting holes on the gearbox and the bracket is then bolted to the plate, the plate is roughly 4 inches x 5 inches. I'll try and photograph it but not much room down there!
OK, managed to snap the plate, it's nothing special, the left-hand bolts mount the plate to the 'box, the right-hand bolts hold the bracket in place.
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/shift.jpg
I estimate 2 inches the cables are moved by. Shifting is still nice and smooth, no problems with that.
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/shift.jpg
I estimate 2 inches the cables are moved by. Shifting is still nice and smooth, no problems with that.
I haven't got the 3" pipe, just bought the 2.5" hardpipe from Robdon.
Also just ordered a mahoosive open Cotton Green cylindrical filter.
So S3/LCR Forge tip and BMC CDA will be for sale soon.
Nice one Rob, I've been fancying this mod for a while, ever since ATP brought them out for the eliminators. It makes sense and i'm sure its worth while. I have woundered why the inlet flange on my K04-023 turbo is so small and would surely benefit from more air. The standard tip is seriously floored going from a 70mm down to about 50mm.
Good work, and keep us posted with dyno data.
Good work, and keep us posted with dyno data.
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Rob, where did you connect the N75, DV etc, as i fancy making my own up but have no solution for connecting these items back in to the DIY tip.
The 3" inlet kit comes with an extra pipe for connecting the N75 etc., that's why I bought the full kit and just adapted it, rather than trying to make a full DIY solution.
Rob you got any pics of the TIP etc from the top so i can see the whole thing.
Cheers
Matt have you had your car mapped again??
Cheers
Matt have you had your car mapped again??
sportuner
Guest
Nope, i sent the ECU back to STAR as i wasn't happy cause there was a load setting fault causing the car to take off on its own.
But not remapped, i currently thinking of going to Jabba to get a remap done, but iam gonna wait till i get thios hard pipe TIP and new filter on it, then gonna up the boost to 1.4 BAR like Robdon has done.
But since fitting Aquamist with medium sized jet running 20% methanol the car is flying, very very quick. I can't tell you how pleased i am with it, so if this pipe makes a difference the ROCK ON.
Barry, this pic shows the top of the ATP 3" hardpipe bend which comes up from the turbo and bends towards the MAF, and the additional pipe coming off it to the DV:
http://www.rd20vturbo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/engine/hp1.jpg
It's all just hardpipes and silicone couplers, I'm not using an N75 so it's not plumbed into the small pipe.
sportuner
Guest
I do not understand where this piece in gt2x locates, somebody could put a pic or explain me a little
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