-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
get one made
remember mate I am not from the UK, but Forge isn't the only place to get parts
(no offense to Forge by any means!)
remember mate I am not from the UK, but Forge isn't the only place to get parts
(no offense to Forge by any means!)Mat
Guest
Expensive when you consider what you're getting out of it, very little ROI
Catch tank was £60 - (Saikou Michi baffled can with proper intake)
Blanking plug for TIP - £6
Hose for catch tank - free for me but normally ~£10
Jubilee clips for removing SAI (used to replace the pipe when you remove PCV under inlet mani) - ~£4
EGR blanking plate - £20
Resistors - £10 (w/delivery)
Vac hose - ~£6
Taking the catch tank out of the equation you're still looking at over £20 on average for something that doesn't do a lot. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad I've done it - just think people should realise what you actually need.
I completely agree robbie, but I think 20 quid is absolute peanuts if you look at the other amounts we chuck at our cars. And for those that hardly spend on their car, they spend vast amounts on other 'useless crap' ie videogames, the 60th pair of shoes, etc etc. know what i am saying
so to answer the original question which is why do this seems to be:
'to tidy up the engine bay a bit'
or
possibly to get a louder dv?
or
'as its not needed'
the next question i guess is why is it there in the first place if not needed.
i dont have too much knowledge on it, but my understanding is that its there to assist the dv, so with it the dv system is a bit safer?
'to tidy up the engine bay a bit'
or
possibly to get a louder dv?
or
'as its not needed'
the next question i guess is why is it there in the first place if not needed.
i dont have too much knowledge on it, but my understanding is that its there to assist the dv, so with it the dv system is a bit safer?
As I understand it the N269 is there to stop too much boost running through the standard Bosch DV, which uses a very weak diaphragm as opposed to a spring design, prone to leaking under high boost.
With many people remapping their cars and running higher boost levels they are advised to upgrade to a stronger DV - and when this is installed it makes the N249 redundant. If you look at the route of the vac pipes it also means the air has to travel much further between the dump valve and inlet manifold, making DV response quite laggy compared to running a dedicated line between them. Another benefit of this includes a crisper, sometimes louder dump as well.
The SAI is only there to meet US emission regulations so by getting rid of both N112 valves you can clear up all the clutter on top of the engine, while also reducing the risk of a boost leak by removing countless vac pipes and unnecessary valves (including PCV etc)
With many people remapping their cars and running higher boost levels they are advised to upgrade to a stronger DV - and when this is installed it makes the N249 redundant. If you look at the route of the vac pipes it also means the air has to travel much further between the dump valve and inlet manifold, making DV response quite laggy compared to running a dedicated line between them. Another benefit of this includes a crisper, sometimes louder dump as well.
The SAI is only there to meet US emission regulations so by getting rid of both N112 valves you can clear up all the clutter on top of the engine, while also reducing the risk of a boost leak by removing countless vac pipes and unnecessary valves (including PCV etc)
Mat
Guest
agreed.
£20 is nothing compared to other mods. Hell, it's half a weeks petrol
other mods
FMIC (forge) ~£750
Exhaust (Cat Back) ~£350
Remap ~£350
TIP ~£80
£20 compared to them is nothing
£20 is nothing compared to other mods. Hell, it's half a weeks petrol
other mods
FMIC (forge) ~£750
Exhaust (Cat Back) ~£350
Remap ~£350
TIP ~£80
£20 compared to them is nothing
check out the link I posted in the 3rd post. That's quite a thorough explenation
randomely set:
my point exactly
what the hell might as well do it this way:
"N249 is controlling the DV (Dump Valve). It is installed between the intake vacuum source and DV itself. When no current is switched to the N249 (default state), the DV will get vacuum or boost from the intake manifold. This is how almost ALL turbo cars are worknig. When shifting gears, you let off throttle, TB closes and vacuum is generated which can open DV to vent boost (which cannot enter engine, because TB is closed).
On never 1.8Ts (2000+) they introduced the N249 (along with lots of other stuff) which is a possibility for the ECU to open the DV any time (!), even during full throttle/acceleration. When the engine is running and turbo is boosting, there is no vacuum generated, but to open the DV (which is mechanical), vacuum is needed. This is what the black vacuum reservior on top of the engine is used for. When idling, shifting, etc - so when vacuum is available, vacuum is led into this reservoir from the intake manifold and kept inside using a check valve (white/black), so when boosting again, vacuum will stay there (air cannot enter into the reservoir).
When ECU wants to open DV durnig full throttle/acceleration, simply "energizes" N249, which will "de-select" the DV from the intake manifold (boost), and "switches" it onto the vacuum reservior. The vacuum in the reservoir will open the DV instantly and release your boost, which, in most of the cases (tuning, etc) is not that highly required . In the case ECU sees a little overboost problem, it can turn N249 on/off repeatedly for very fast (just as N75 is working), which will open/close DV all the time, trying to settle (lower) the boost level.
PROs: By removing N249 valve, you can prevent this bad habit of the ECU, and by removing N249 valve, you are removing an approximately 2mm narrow bottle neck restriction (ID of the N249 valve) in the line to the DV, which will result in a somewhat faster DV response. I am using the stock bosch DV, but it feels just as good as an aftermarket DV with N249 (restriction) inline. Boost curve is smooth and progressive.
CONs: Boost overshots/spikes may grow higher, especially in high gear/low rpm situations (using the small K03), which can result in a leaner condition (for the moment). These spikes depend on N75 type, wastegate setting and software programming, but they usually don't last long (0.5-1s max). In the case these spikes are very high (car enters limp even), minor adjustment on the wastegate can be done. Ibiza engine covers cannot be used anymore (by removing the accessories above, two mounting points of the cover are removed aswell)."
"N249 is controlling the DV (Dump Valve). It is installed between the intake vacuum source and DV itself. When no current is switched to the N249 (default state), the DV will get vacuum or boost from the intake manifold. This is how almost ALL turbo cars are worknig. When shifting gears, you let off throttle, TB closes and vacuum is generated which can open DV to vent boost (which cannot enter engine, because TB is closed).
On never 1.8Ts (2000+) they introduced the N249 (along with lots of other stuff) which is a possibility for the ECU to open the DV any time (!), even during full throttle/acceleration. When the engine is running and turbo is boosting, there is no vacuum generated, but to open the DV (which is mechanical), vacuum is needed. This is what the black vacuum reservior on top of the engine is used for. When idling, shifting, etc - so when vacuum is available, vacuum is led into this reservoir from the intake manifold and kept inside using a check valve (white/black), so when boosting again, vacuum will stay there (air cannot enter into the reservoir).
When ECU wants to open DV durnig full throttle/acceleration, simply "energizes" N249, which will "de-select" the DV from the intake manifold (boost), and "switches" it onto the vacuum reservior. The vacuum in the reservoir will open the DV instantly and release your boost, which, in most of the cases (tuning, etc) is not that highly required . In the case ECU sees a little overboost problem, it can turn N249 on/off repeatedly for very fast (just as N75 is working), which will open/close DV all the time, trying to settle (lower) the boost level.
PROs: By removing N249 valve, you can prevent this bad habit of the ECU, and by removing N249 valve, you are removing an approximately 2mm narrow bottle neck restriction (ID of the N249 valve) in the line to the DV, which will result in a somewhat faster DV response. I am using the stock bosch DV, but it feels just as good as an aftermarket DV with N249 (restriction) inline. Boost curve is smooth and progressive.
CONs: Boost overshots/spikes may grow higher, especially in high gear/low rpm situations (using the small K03), which can result in a leaner condition (for the moment). These spikes depend on N75 type, wastegate setting and software programming, but they usually don't last long (0.5-1s max). In the case these spikes are very high (car enters limp even), minor adjustment on the wastegate can be done. Ibiza engine covers cannot be used anymore (by removing the accessories above, two mounting points of the cover are removed aswell)."
Mat
Guest
dutch man is in a good, friendly mood
nice one fella
I am right!
Surprising myself actually...must be the weekend around the corner and chilled beer awaiting me in the fridge.
Similar threads
