What's after remap and K & N A/F

[gae1431]

Hello All,


Fairly new to this forum but has followed it for a few months. Just had a remap with a power seller off ebay, came to house etc and charged £250. car is fine
and pulling alot better all round. User name is ECU_tune and web addy is www.more-bhp.com. Claims 40 more BHP and 70 more of torque? Will have RR in new year to get actual figures. Programms come from Germany.

Anyway looking for more power from my LCR 210-bhp so what are my options? have seen a few posts for the piper full system and d/pipe / high flow cat etc...

What is the approx costs for this sort of kit to add to your car? Are there other options?

Had a bit of banter the other day with a focus RS 53 plate, he had big bore exhaust and some sparco mud flaps, not sure on the mad flaps though

He could not over take me and we were even pretty much up to ...mph where
i took my foot off the gas but was impressed that i prob had the heavier car but he could not o/t me...

Any help / thoughts would be appreciated and a great help if any links or numbers can be added. Did buy a dump valve but read bad reports about these so re sold this on ebay. The forge 007 seems the one to have. Does this add to the power as i guess this keep the turbo spooling when changing gear.

Your help is much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Willie]

Hi there,
Firstly well done with the RS, they might have a healthier respect for LCR now
I'll be very difficult to prove what the remap has given you power wise unless you got a before map Rolling Road graph done. The figures that the guy quoted you seem fair. It would be a good idea to get more air flow into your system with either an induction kit ( I have the BMC CDA which sounds good) or cleaning up your air box (see threads on air box smoothing). The DV will allow the turbo to do the same as the standard one will (no performance differences) the reason people change them is the OEM one is plastic and it can't be repaired. The Forge ones are metal and have a diaphram that can be replaced.
As for the Piper system, it sounds, looks and performs very very well and is said to be very well built. If you are going for this can I suggest you get the 3" Down pipe with the 200 cell race cat with 3" freer flowing system, mmmmmmm very nice. I'll be getting the 3" DP this summer hopefully
The best mod you can do after the remap for better feeling power is the freer flowing exhaust, this will add a little more power, not much , but will get to the power quicker and feel quicker too.
The other route you want to think about is better handling, either stiffer Anti Roll Bars with an S3 strutt brace, coilovers or just a good spring and shock combination (Koni FSD and Eibach springs seem good with a smallish drop)
Hope this helps, please don't ask the newbie standard questions like whoooshy DV, there are loads of posts on every topic you can think of, use the search button at the top right of each section, happy motoring

 

[gae1431]

Thanks Junior Senior for your reply and time. I'm not going to ask about the woosh dv as know how chav is it and it doesn't bother me in any way However just wondered if it was recommended if i changed it as i have now had a remap, and the forge 007p seems the one to have from what i have read and will handle the extra boost better than the OEM one.

You mention an a.filter but i already have a K & N cone fitted with a pipe fitted to front of grill and around the battery to the side of the cone itself. When accelerating you can hear it sucking and sounds a bit like a dv unfortunately so
don't want anymore woosh Could i fit another pipe from the existing hole so even more cold air is going to the filter as currently there is only one tube and this is from front of grill and does not use the existing hole where the original was before.

I would est my car is running about 250bhp but not sure of torque. My budget is restricted a little for now so maybe i will go for the piper system for now and then upgrade my down pipe etc at a future date, but i guess the d/pipe etc will have to be piper as well.

Also you mention a strut brace, and looking at where it fits does this help the car grip more under hard acceleration and stops some sort of movement under the hood while driving? I suppose if this is the case it would help your grip and maybe overall acceleration.

If i go for the piper system only for now is there any other thing that should accompany this apart from the d/pipe and high flow cat that may help, considering i have a remap and air filter. Then once my budget permits i will go for the other options yopu mention.

Finally what sort of gains can you expect from just fitting a std system for now, is it more torquw based than bhp. Some people have said that as your car is breathing better the turbo is more eager to spool and can come in a little quicker than normal.

Thanks for your time, any others want to comment please feel free.

Regards, happy crimbo

 

[Willie]

Alright bud, merry christmas to you too

When you change to the Piper system you will find that due to the freer flowing exhaust gases the turbo will spool up quicker and with this you will get slightly more BHP, that will peak quicker and stay in longer and same with the torque (See Kez's graphs before and after Piper full system fitted, in the sticky under LCR Piper system). If you are going to do the exhaust better to save up and do it in a oner, saves you two fitting costs and it will be cheaper to buy the system than it is buying is seperate parts
With the turbo spooling up quicker your induction kit will be worked harder. There is a kit for replacing the standard induction suction point (behind passengers side light). This will give a bigger diametre inlet, outlet and better flow due to this being better shaped (see the standard one for its bad points, the new one changes these. Also see 'Group buy feelers' section for this piece). You can never have too much air getting to your induction kit, all you have to watch out for is big puddles (some people have theirs running down to beside the fog light and run the risk, all be it very small risk, of suction up water in big puddles)

The strutt brace cuts down lateral movement between the front strutts which helps you corner flatter therefore more controlled and faster. To eliminate engine movement, which is a problem on Leons, see threads on dog bone mounts. This is the mounting point between the engine and gear box. When this is stiffer there is a little more engine vibration through the car (nothing to worry about) but also a more planted feeling car that is not effected by the engine movement.

As for grip under hard acceleration all that can be done about that really is an educated right foot and some good rubber. I have used Good Year Eagle GSD3's for three years and rate them very highly. There is a new tyre out that has one loads of merit for popular magazines called the Good Year Assymetrics, these I will be trying when the winter rubber comes off.
If you want better grip for exiting corners you want a Limited Slip Diff (£1,300 fitted) but if cash is a bit tight perhaps this is one for Santa next year

Your 007 DV will be perfect for any boost you throw at it, all you might have to do is change the spring (you should have been given I think three different colours). Try a search on the Forge section for the need to upgrade the spring.

Hope this helps

 

[gae1431]

Thanks JS

Your information is very informative and helpful so thanks for this. I think i will wait to save about a grand and get it all in one then, from what you said it makes logical sense.

I might go to a local revo company to see if i could have a stage 2 with my current remap which would include the miltek system and a few other bits including d.pipe etc.

I will look into getting another hose from existing channel to go to my airfilter as well so extra cold air going to the air filter. Should imagine this would be quite cheap and a few clips and it would be fitted.

Have seen a few S3 strut braces so will keep my eye out for one of these as they are fairly cheap as well. I have seen a bigger turbo pipe which is about £150 on AMK website i think should help, so plenty of options for me to get on with

Thanks for you time and assistance as it is very interesting on the amount of things you can tweek / add so will keep looking out for parts to add.

Have always been a Seat Cupra fan and have had 2 ibiza cupras' and then my LCR in Ovni yellow. Practical yet spacious and good to take shopping etc.. Ibiza's were real nice but a bit small for what i needed it for, hence the LCR.

Have a good one, no doubt we will speak in the future

Thanks

 

[Willie]

For Revo stage 2 you'll need a 4 Bar FPR aswell, about £60. A turbo intake pipe (TIP) could be doing with getting uprated too as this has been known to collapse under bigger boost at 5,000 RPM
The Milltek DP is not as free flowing as the Piper one, would be interesting to see the price differences as Piper are aiming at the Milltek market. The piper system is 3", not too sure about the Milltek one.
You sound as though you'll be doing a fair amount of modding

 

[stevo lcr]

Hi all.nice to see its not just me who`s got the modifying bug.ive had my lcr about 2 months and my intentions were to keep it standard,but ive already spent about 1000 pounds on remap,exhaust,filter etc and now it needs firmer suspension to make use of all that power!!!!

 

[Willie]

Aye bud thats the way, this site is no good for saving money