Hi, i was reading various site and forums regarding wastegate adjustment for higher boost levels, i found this guide online and was wondering if anyone has looked into this?
The nice thing about this mod is that it’s free power. However, there are atleast two things you SHOULD have done to not worry about anything bad happening…this write-up IS to get you lots of power efficiently right? Anywho, the wastegate is a small flapper valve inside the exhaust side of the turbo that opens to allow exhaust gases to go around the turbine, and thus keeps the turbo from spooling up anymore. The way it works is you have an actuator with a vac nipple and an actuator rod. As you build boost, the charged air goes through the line into the actuator, and pushes on a piston inside, that then pushes the rod. The rod is attached to the flapper, so when the rod moves, the flapper opens. To “crank the wg,” you move the 2 nuts downward to pull the rod away from the actuator. This way, the flapper stays closed longer, thus giving you quicker spool, a higher boost spike, and more boost at redline. You’ll need a 10mm open end wrench for this. Get around to the passenger side of the engine bay, and look down behind the head. You’ll see the rod. First, turn the bottom nut down (clockwise) say 5 full turns. Next, tighten the top nut the same way. Once both are tight, you’re ready to go. Go drive the car and watch your boost levels, and if you feel safe, don’t tighten anymore. If you feel like doing as much as possible, turn the bottom nut until you have about 1.5-2 full turns LEFT and stop there. If you go too far, you’ll completely shut the flapper and not have any boost control.
The nice thing about this mod is that it’s free power. However, there are atleast two things you SHOULD have done to not worry about anything bad happening…this write-up IS to get you lots of power efficiently right? Anywho, the wastegate is a small flapper valve inside the exhaust side of the turbo that opens to allow exhaust gases to go around the turbine, and thus keeps the turbo from spooling up anymore. The way it works is you have an actuator with a vac nipple and an actuator rod. As you build boost, the charged air goes through the line into the actuator, and pushes on a piston inside, that then pushes the rod. The rod is attached to the flapper, so when the rod moves, the flapper opens. To “crank the wg,” you move the 2 nuts downward to pull the rod away from the actuator. This way, the flapper stays closed longer, thus giving you quicker spool, a higher boost spike, and more boost at redline. You’ll need a 10mm open end wrench for this. Get around to the passenger side of the engine bay, and look down behind the head. You’ll see the rod. First, turn the bottom nut down (clockwise) say 5 full turns. Next, tighten the top nut the same way. Once both are tight, you’re ready to go. Go drive the car and watch your boost levels, and if you feel safe, don’t tighten anymore. If you feel like doing as much as possible, turn the bottom nut until you have about 1.5-2 full turns LEFT and stop there. If you go too far, you’ll completely shut the flapper and not have any boost control.
