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sorry, didnt update, i've got the sparkplugs replaced, and from what i remember a cold temp sensor (one just under the air box on the pass side) and a full service (60k, belts and water pump) but still having issues. So i'm throwing this as my dealer about doing a warranty, but i dont really have much hope with those guys given my history dealing with them. I wont even call it a warranty of what they are providing cause they wriggle out of it with excuses even if you got a new car from them (i got this car second hand) but hey they can provide a courtesy car so no harm trying.
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It might be cheaper and quicker to let an indep VAG specialist handle this now - that is if you have no good feeling that your local dealer knows what is wrong. I'm not trying to be insulting, but you do realise that all modern cars should be started with right foot off the throttle, out of gear and maybe the clutch fully depressed? Even the AA tend to ask "how much gas does it need to start usually?". How the AA worked out that DBW throttles need "a bit of gas" escapes me - but there again I might be wrong!
Sorry but I've asked that question (foot off throttle) sort before!
Coils faulty, coils failing normally cause fault codes to be stored. Does the fuel pump now run when you open the driver's door (after the car has been left for a few hours)? Are you sure that the driver's door switches/functions are all operating okay - ie does the interior light come on when this door is opened, also if you leave the sidelights on does the "lights on" warning sound? I'm just trying to work out why the pump does not prime prior to the engine being started - its meant to to increase the fuel pressure?
I'm guessing that there is more than one engine temperature sensor, normally there will be one on the block with two outputs - one to the engine ECU and one to the temperature gauge (or both outputs might be the same - don't think so) and one on the air intake point - maybe part of the MAF assembly as it will need to know the ambient temperature to work out the current mass air flow. The outside air temperature is a completely different sensor (but you probably knew that!).
Sorry but I've asked that question (foot off throttle) sort before!
Coils faulty, coils failing normally cause fault codes to be stored. Does the fuel pump now run when you open the driver's door (after the car has been left for a few hours)? Are you sure that the driver's door switches/functions are all operating okay - ie does the interior light come on when this door is opened, also if you leave the sidelights on does the "lights on" warning sound? I'm just trying to work out why the pump does not prime prior to the engine being started - its meant to to increase the fuel pressure?
I'm guessing that there is more than one engine temperature sensor, normally there will be one on the block with two outputs - one to the engine ECU and one to the temperature gauge (or both outputs might be the same - don't think so) and one on the air intake point - maybe part of the MAF assembly as it will need to know the ambient temperature to work out the current mass air flow. The outside air temperature is a completely different sensor (but you probably knew that!).
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hey Rum4mo, yeah i always start (at least my general practise is) with the gear on neutral, clutch disengaged (a habit i picked up from early Hyundais, they have a "safety feature" that you cant start the car untill you put your foot on the clutch, makes sence IMO and happy to carry on that routine) and foot off the gas.
No its still does not prime at all, and yeah the door switch is ok from the sence the interior light and lamps-on warning works (very annoying compared to the gentle chimes off a Hyundai but hey it does its job) This will be my sticking point if the dealers are being slippery as this something tangerble i can point out rather than an "early morning starting issue". Now this is where i'm a bit stuck as i dont have any experience with VAG engines (hell i'm not a mechanic by any means, i only go by my experience from 3 hyundai cars and 2 nissans which seemed simpler in general by design)
The service i carried out was from Backdraft and they could not pinpoint the issue either, but fair enough they didnt spend a lot of time with my car to diagnose.
No its still does not prime at all, and yeah the door switch is ok from the sence the interior light and lamps-on warning works (very annoying compared to the gentle chimes off a Hyundai but hey it does its job) This will be my sticking point if the dealers are being slippery as this something tangerble i can point out rather than an "early morning starting issue". Now this is where i'm a bit stuck as i dont have any experience with VAG engines (hell i'm not a mechanic by any means, i only go by my experience from 3 hyundai cars and 2 nissans which seemed simpler in general by design)
The service i carried out was from Backdraft and they could not pinpoint the issue either, but fair enough they didnt spend a lot of time with my car to diagnose.
One other thing that might help until you can get it to prime properly, if you turn the "ignition" key on, the pump should prime again - for a short period - does it prime at this time? If it does, then maybe switch the key off and back on a few times to get the fuel line pressure up a bit more - then see if that makes starting any easier, but the car should prime when the driver's door is opened. The fuel pumps on all modern cars will only prime for a short time if there are no ignition sparks detected, this is to protect against fuel being sprayed after a collision etc.
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