Rough cold start - tried everything!!!!

[weelieboots]

Hi all, Im completely new to this and also to Seat. Just bought a 2004 1.2 12v Ibiza and have had a small issue on start up. The 1st day I had her she started really rough and had to touch the accelerator a few times so stop her from conking out. The amber sensor fault light then came on.

I took her to the garage I got her from and they said it was because she had been sitting on a forecourt cold and damp then when I started driving her, the engine went a little loopy and threw up the sensor light. They reset it.

This morning light came on again and the past few mornings ive had a really rough start with her - chugging and juddering unless Im touching the gas. Once I move off shes fine, no judders, backfires, missfires - drives a dream.

What could be causing this initial start up problem and is there anything I can do until I get her to the garage on Mon?

Also, is there anything I should be looking out for/ not doing in case it causes damage?

Plus, sorry, any usual tips on anything from experienced seat owners will be appreciated like if shes any good in the snow, things I should never do, etc as I dont even have a manual for her!!!

 

[RUM4MO]

Hello and welcome!

I have had no experience with the 1.2 engine, but they do cause a lot of bad press to get generated around them. Stretched and/or slipped timing chains can cause them to be difficult to cold start (worst situation for an engine is a cold start so that could be why its noticed most then). I think that there could be other issues like EGR system and/or the pre-cat Lambda probe. Your garage really needs to get this sorted out for you. For more back ground information try the search function for 1.2 engine problems. Maybe also have a look on the equivalent Skoda (Fabia) site - ie www.briskoda.net and search again under Fabia for 1.2 engine problems. Hopefully you will then be able to come to some conclusion as to what probelms might be causing this. Well if not, at least you will be able to let your garage know that you are aware of the problems that these engines can end up with - good luck!

Snow, if you are unfortunate enough to need to drive in snow, as opposed to having the choice of walking/bussing etc when its snowing, then maybe consider getting a full set of winter tyres on steel wheels - if you really need to keep going and be able to stop when its snowing, it really depends on what you use the car for and where you live - ie on flat ground or in a hilly area as tyres really do work!

My wife has a 2003MY Polo 1.4 and has had it from new, past winters have been tolerable and with a lot of digging and laying down grit, she has managed to get to work every day. This winter though, being a lot colder and more snow/ice for longer, she has had to use my Passat 4Motion - until I bought in a full set of winter tyres, now, so far even with last week and this week's snow, she has managed to get to work every day - with no grit being layed down. A full set of winter tyres and wheels can cost about £450 - it depends on how often you would fail to get to work and lose a day's pay over the period that these tyres would last as to if you feel that investment is worth while - I know my answer to that question and that is why I bought them.

 

[weelieboots]

Thanks for that.

I live near Oldham so can get pretty bad snow. Had loads this yr and work in a place that never closes so always have to attempt it. Just wanted a heads up as my Micra 03 was fantastic in the snow. Was considering snow tyres anyway.

I was thinking the coolant sensor or something as it runs perfectly otherwise, gets about 300 miles to a tank and doesnt make a sound apart from the first 10/15 secs of initial start up. Its quite annoying having a new car throwing up fault codes already!!

 

[RUM4MO]

Thanks for that.

I live near Oldham so can get pretty bad snow. Had loads this yr and work in a place that never closes so always have to attempt it. Just wanted a heads up as my Micra 03 was fantastic in the snow. Was considering snow tyres anyway.

I was thinking the coolant sensor or something as it runs perfectly otherwise, gets about 300 miles to a tank and doesnt make a sound apart from the first 10/15 secs of initial start up. Its quite annoying having a new car throwing up fault codes already!!

You could be correct there (coolant sensor), you can, for your own peace of mind, by a Gendan VAG scan tool for under £40 - this will let you read and clear engine, ABS SRS fault codes.

I bought my wheels and winter tyres from www.mytyres.com (or .co.uk) - there is a section on their menu for that option on the LHS.

The Micra might have had narrow tyres - so they would be better in snow, if buying winter tyres, consider dropping a wheel size if possible and definately drop a tyre width.

 

[weelieboots]

ok an update now. I checked my car today for essentials and noticed my coolant was pretty much empty. Now bearing in mind I only filled it on Mon(5 daysago) I dont think this is normal. No leaks or anything so any ideas what is up?

 

[ashley600]

Have you checked your oil???

 

[weelieboots]

yeah oil is fine

 

[ibiza64]

dont know if its the answer, but i had this prob, it was awfull at start up especially cold, then wen it got warm it wasnt so juddery. turned out i had a cracked exhaust manifold, which throws up the engine warning light? but as for the coolant i dont know? ask the garage to check your exhaust anyway? nothin to lose?

 

[Wayno321]

hi just read your link have u taken the coolent cap off when its running befor it has had chance to warm up to see if it is presurising up {head gasket might have started to go ???

 

[Neo]

+1 for headgasket, it may not have split through an oil gallery, but sounds like it has split into a water jacket.
The rough start could be because water has leaked into the cylinder.
A compression check should confirm this... or not.

 

[weelieboots]

Ill try this tomorrow. Thanks

Do hope its not tho - only got the car!!!

My bro who works with cars thinks it may be an air lock that I released when filling the coolant on Mon but still doesnt explain the warning light or rough start.

 

[Wilber]

Could be the radiator on its way out? I had the exact same problem, and i found out there was a hole in the radiator.

 

[ScottHmk4]

i have this, had it inspected yesterday and if u look at the radiator there is some sort of connector i believe, this needs to be sealed as it will be leaking, i have yet to fix mines but thats what it is

 

[weelieboots]

coolant seems to be ok now so I was told it was most likely an air lock.


Hooked her up to Vag com and got the following

P0300/0301/0302 - meaning a misfir detected in cylinder 1& 2.
Can I assume this means 2 new coil packs?

Also I only have the P codes from the mechanic but what does P1503 mean?

 

[ScottHmk4]

coolant seems to be ok now so I was told it was most likely an air lock.


Hooked her up to Vag com and got the following

P0300/0301/0302 - meaning a misfir detected in cylinder 1& 2.
Can I assume this means 2 new coil packs?

Also I only have the P codes from the mechanic but what does P1503 mean?

P1503 load signal for alternator terminal DF Range/Performance

 

[weelieboots]

Yeah slightly worried about that one.

Glad the misfires explain the rough start. Just hoping its spark plugs tho. Is it possible for 2 coil packs to go without me really noticing or could they both be on the way out?

 

[RUM4MO]

I think that the poor wee guy would be rougher that a badger's bottom if two coils were being troublesome - as that would leave only one working fully. Have you got the means to clear these logged faults and get some running done and periodically recheck, note down, clear any new faults - just so that you can see if the coil problems are still valid and not just some old legacy problems that have been cleared up before you bought the car. If you need to buy coils, I think its best to buy from VAG as you will be getting the real "improved" thing and not just some old versions or pattern parts.

 

[RUM4MO]

coolant seems to be ok now so I was told it was most likely an air lock.


Hooked her up to Vag com and got the following

Also I only have the P codes from the mechanic but what does P1503 mean?

That P1503 alternator load signal problem, I thought that us petrol headed folk would miss out on that problem as I thought was caused by th eexcessive engine movement in the DERV engines breaking a wire. Maybe your poor misfiring 1.2 has been moving its engine about a lot and has broken this wire. I used the search term "engine fault code P1503" in Google and one Seat link (maybe this site) gives a run down on what normally cause this problem - with pictures - maybe check it out - unless again this is a legacy fault that was sorted before you bought this car.

 

[weelieboots]

Cheers for that. They are not going to be past faults as I got it reset the day after I got her and these have come up since.

Im pretty convinced its a coil pack. Issue now is that I need to drive her for the next 3 days to work and back - approx 25 miles each day.

Do u think she will be ok as I have no other option to get to work.

The garage that I booked her in for a service with next week says it should be ok. I just have no faith in her at the mo.

She id not really misfiring - just a tiny one now and again whe in low gear and a rough cold start.

 

[RUM4MO]

I think that you have to do what you have to do, just don't strain the engine in any gear or let it labour as any misfires under these conditions would sent a bigger shock pulse through the drive train. So just try to drive it "Granny style" - ie be nice to it.