Never read that no. Forge actuators are alot more robust and better made, having had one made for the old GT2X I know they are good.
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This was a Forge one and was not up to the standards I would have expected from them.
They are aware of this.
They are aware of this.
Ah I see, hmmm ... doesn't sound like Forge's usual quality, I'm sure they would address the issue.
I'm sure Forge do piston actuators as well as diaphragms.
Good thing about the BDM kit is that the actuator is remotely mounted off the turbo, so it won't get as hot.
I'm sure Forge do piston actuators as well as diaphragms.
Good thing about the BDM kit is that the actuator is remotely mounted off the turbo, so it won't get as hot.
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Forge are asking me do I want a piston or diaphragm actuator, and what spring do I want?
Which would be better for an actuator - piston or diaphragm?
If I'm running 25psi (1.75 BAR), what strength of spring should I use? (I'm thinking blue) Forge info below:
The 4 springs we offer are listed below under their relevant colour codes and related pressures. Running pressure is the lowest or minimum pressure the spring will operate at, which is important when considering which spring you choose. The spool up pressure relates to the vacuum pressure required to lift the spring from its static position, at which point the turbo waste-gate will start to open (spool up).
The actual rating for these springs is as follows, the lower pressure being the spool up pressure and the higher pressure being the running pressure:
RED 17 psi (spool up) - 20 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049R.
BLUE 14 psi (spool up) - 18 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049B.
YELLOW 9 psi (spool up) - 15 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049Y.
GREEN 5 psi (spool up) - 10 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049G.
Which would be better for an actuator - piston or diaphragm?
If I'm running 25psi (1.75 BAR), what strength of spring should I use? (I'm thinking blue) Forge info below:
The 4 springs we offer are listed below under their relevant colour codes and related pressures. Running pressure is the lowest or minimum pressure the spring will operate at, which is important when considering which spring you choose. The spool up pressure relates to the vacuum pressure required to lift the spring from its static position, at which point the turbo waste-gate will start to open (spool up).
The actual rating for these springs is as follows, the lower pressure being the spool up pressure and the higher pressure being the running pressure:
RED 17 psi (spool up) - 20 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049R.
BLUE 14 psi (spool up) - 18 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049B.
YELLOW 9 psi (spool up) - 15 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049Y.
GREEN 5 psi (spool up) - 10 psi (running pressure) our product code FMAS049G.
can't Forge's technical department advise which spring to use in there actuator??
would have thought they'd know which spring creates what PSI
would have thought they'd know which spring creates what PSI
Not sure what's up, but today my car felt awesome, then later on driving again I lost all power above 3000rpm, like I had no throttle at all, if I backed off it would go again??? Limp mode?
I'm wondering if heat is affecting the boost controller, as I've been having boost issues ever since I moved it to sitting on top of the engine? I'm going to move it back away from direct heat to see if that's what it is.
I'm wondering if heat is affecting the boost controller, as I've been having boost issues ever since I moved it to sitting on top of the engine? I'm going to move it back away from direct heat to see if that's what it is.
Maybe still the actuator issue Rob? Or have Forge sent you a new one already?
Would be worth moving the boost controller to see if that's what it is, cheap/easy changes first, then the involved ones if that doesn't work!
Would be worth moving the boost controller to see if that's what it is, cheap/easy changes first, then the involved ones if that doesn't work!
Could be yes, if the actuator is sticking/jamming that could be the cause. Forge are working on a new one for me, not got it yet. I'm sure the boost drop issue happened before the dyno day with the controller in the old location away from heat - if that's the case then it points to the actuator.
Yep that was my thinking re the actuator.
Bit of a bugger if the Forge one is acting up, never used to have problems like this (in the good ol' days of the hybrid k04 anyway)
Bit of a bugger if the Forge one is acting up, never used to have problems like this (in the good ol' days of the hybrid k04 anyway)
Basilseat
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Yep that was my thinking re the actuator.
Bit of a bugger if the Forge one is acting up, never used to have problems like this (in the good ol' days of the hybrid k04 anyway)
It's the standard Garrett one that is playing up. Same happened on my old GT2X, once replaced with a Forge actuator it was golden.
Hi Rob, i had to relocate my unos mbc to the battery area of the car as i found when it was near the engine as the engine heated up the spring expanded a little and lost tension and lowered boost. Since moving it to a cold area of the bay my boost is far more consistant.
I'll move it, thanks for that.
I thought I had found the issue today, the MAF sensor was very dirty (probably thanks to a steel mesh filter!), so I cleaned it up, cleaned the MAP sensor, cleaned and re-lubed the DV. Went back out - exactly the same, except now I'm getting a weird clanking, metallic turning sound??? Could a duff alternator/pulley cause sudden power loss above a certain rpm?
Engine sounds sweet as a nut at idle, it's not an internal noise, but once on the move I can now hear a weird noise, sounds like it's coming from the pulleys area.
I thought I had found the issue today, the MAF sensor was very dirty (probably thanks to a steel mesh filter!), so I cleaned it up, cleaned the MAP sensor, cleaned and re-lubed the DV. Went back out - exactly the same, except now I'm getting a weird clanking, metallic turning sound??? Could a duff alternator/pulley cause sudden power loss above a certain rpm?
Engine sounds sweet as a nut at idle, it's not an internal noise, but once on the move I can now hear a weird noise, sounds like it's coming from the pulleys area.
I checked everything over this afternoon and found nothing loose at all, checked the timing belt area too, nothing there either. Cranked the engine over by hand, nothing wrong.
I removed the alternator and it doesn't sound right to me when you spin it, the clutch pulley doesn't seem to be working either, so I have ordered a new one, along with a new tensioner as the tensioner is the original one, so is 10 years old!
I also moved the boost controller off the engine and mounted it off to the side away from heat.
I removed the alternator and it doesn't sound right to me when you spin it, the clutch pulley doesn't seem to be working either, so I have ordered a new one, along with a new tensioner as the tensioner is the original one, so is 10 years old!
I also moved the boost controller off the engine and mounted it off to the side away from heat.
New alternator arrived today, the new one is silent when you spin the pulley, the old one sounds like the bearings have gone, definately doesn't sound right, doesn't spin freely either, feels and sounds like there is heavy friction. Won't know it's 100% fixed until I drive it but it should be now (fingers crossed).
Well that hasn't fixed it - bugger! The alternator was definately goosed though, but I still have no power and it just starts to stumble and die as soon as the boost gauge gets above zero and into positive pressure. MAP sensor, throttle body?
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Well it's not the MAP sensor, swapped it and still the same, did a TBA and that was fine too.
I am now beginning to think the turbine wheel has come off or destroyed itself as I'm not even getting wastegate boost pressure, as soon as boost hits 0.1 BAR the car stumbles and and just no power at all, won't go above 0.1 BAR. If the wheel or bits of it have come off then I fear the CAT may be destroyed too if those bits have gone into it.
Is there any way of inspecting or testing the turbine wheel apart from taking the downpipe off?
I am now beginning to think the turbine wheel has come off or destroyed itself as I'm not even getting wastegate boost pressure, as soon as boost hits 0.1 BAR the car stumbles and and just no power at all, won't go above 0.1 BAR. If the wheel or bits of it have come off then I fear the CAT may be destroyed too if those bits have gone into it.
Is there any way of inspecting or testing the turbine wheel apart from taking the downpipe off?
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