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Removing MK1 nearside rear passenger window - but nothing else.

iammooks

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Nov 27, 2018
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Just a heads up that this might work on a Passat but it didn't work for me.

The basics are pretty similar, but it's quite different in some important ways. I love Charles, but I take out the peg and dowel by screwing a decking screw into the centre and then pull it out with pliers or a claw hammer - you don't risk dinging the door that way.

You definitely don't need to be taking speakers out.

It looks like the window regulator is set up differently on the Passat - you can unscrew it on our cars with (I think) a T30 without taking off the door skin. You definitely need to take it off so you can push the window up.

When putting the window back in the carrier, you'll need to look through the hole under the window motor to make sure it's going in the right place - it can easily go behind the carrier and that's how you get jammed or broken glass.


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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Hope this isn’t a silly question, but at what point does the new peg get inserted? It looks like you have to have the glass back in the carrier and the inner metal card back on, so that leaves little space to insert the new peg. In my photo below the hole in the black vertical rail looks too narrow to fit the new peg through. And it looks like no space for fingers to get in there.
IMG_9805.jpeg
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
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Hope this isn’t a silly question, but at what point does the new peg get inserted? It looks like you have to have the glass back in the carrier and the inner metal card back on, so that leaves little space to insert the new peg. In my photo below the hole in the black vertical rail looks too narrow to fit the new peg through. And it looks like no space for fingers to get in there.
View attachment 42283

I do it before bolting the inner door skin back on. If you've taped the window to the top of the door frame, you'll still be able to see the bottom of the glass where the plug goes in, and I put the outer bit in, then push the inner in a little before using plumber's grips to push it fully in place.

The risk of doing it through that inspection hole is you could push it all the way through and dent the door.

I have been able to do it by taking a few bolts out and trying to feel my way around behind it to put it back together, but it's a sweary job, if you know what I mean...


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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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I kinda follow what you’re saying but doesn’t the peg go though the glass AND through the white plastic bit shown in the photo which is part of the door card? I’m guessing I should just crack on with the job but am anxious about the English weather. ☔️
 
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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
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I kinda follow what you’re saying but doesn’t the peg go though the glass AND through the white plastic bit shown in the photo which is part of the door card? I’m guessing I should just crack on with the job but am anxious about the English weather.

Yep - you're absolutely right on that one. That's the scary part of the job. When you've untaped the glass from the door frame, you gently lower it down, checking through the inspection hole to make sure the glass is going between the guides. Then, when you're sure it's in the right place, you push down on the top of the glass and you'll hear a bang, which tells you either the glass is seated in the carrier, or that the plastic carrier is broken. They can be brittle at this age, so it wouldn't be your fault.


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Alexis27

Active Member
Dec 20, 2009
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Manchester
Sorry to gate crash but am I right in thinking the fronts are a lot easier and just a simple screw with easy access?
Will need to do the front door lock at some point and the rear ended up being a disaster because of the plastic peg issue.
 

g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Sorry to gate crash but am I right in thinking the fronts are a lot easier and just a simple screw with easy access?
Will need to do the front door lock at some point and the rear ended up being a disaster because of the plastic peg issue.
yes. The whole procedure is fundamentally the same, but the window is clamped in with a bracket and a bolt. You just wind the r window down and access the bolt through the rubber access hole.
BTW I have just completed the job. New rear door lock and no drama at all with the glass and peg. I took some photos that clarify @ianmooks post above. Once I figured it all out, his words made perfect sense. I’ll post more details later. Time for beer to celebrate 🍺
 
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g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
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Yep - you're absolutely right on that one. That's the scary part of the job. When you've untaped the glass from the door frame, you gently lower it down, checking through the inspection hole to make sure the glass is going between the guides. Then, when you're sure it's in the right place, you push down on the top of the glass and you'll hear a bang, which tells you either the glass is seated in the carrier, or that the plastic carrier is broken. They can be brittle at this age, so it wouldn't be your fault.


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Just adding some pictures to this explanation…
With the glass taped to the door frame the old/new plug can be reinserted into the glass (circled in green):
IMG_9814.jpeg

IMG_9822.jpeg

Then the metal door card can be attached to the door and the glass lowered again. The glass with the plastic peg will then slot in to the plastic mount as shown in the image below. Push the glass downward (red arrow) and the plastic will flex outwards (green arrow) until the peg locates in the hole with a clunk.

IMG_9823.jpeg

It’s actually some good engineering. Once you know how it works then it all seems to make sense.
 

Alexis27

Active Member
Dec 20, 2009
2,142
478
Manchester
When I tried it it the white plastic shattered. On the second attempt it slid behind and the glass wedged inside the door 😆

Congratulations on that method working for you. I'd go and buy a lottery ticket quick!
 
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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Just adding some pictures to this explanation…
With the glass taped to the door frame the old/new plug can be reinserted into the glass (circled in green):
View attachment 42284
View attachment 42285
Then the metal door card can be attached to the door and the glass lowered again. The glass with the plastic peg will then slot in to the plastic mount as shown in the image below. Push the glass downward (red arrow) and the plastic will flex outwards (green arrow) until the peg locates in the hole with a clunk.

View attachment 42286
It’s actually some good engineering. Once you know how it works then it all seems to make sense.

I'm only as confident as I am because I bought a new door from Thai and stripped my old door for parts and didn't have to worry about breaking anything. It was a massive help when I had to put new locks in both sides not long after!


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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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It never occurred to me that the white plastic could break. I got lucky. Ignorance is bliss.🙂 I have a new rear door lock for the passenger side. I think I’ll recharge my luck before attempting that side.
 
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