Removing MK1 nearside rear passenger window - but nothing else.

[iammooks]

Hi there,

Longtime lurker etc. etc. etc...

A few years ago I had a garage replace my nearside rear lock, but being the cowboys they are, when they put the door back together, they didn't replace the window expansion pin. As a result, the window hasn't gone down because it's not been attached to the regulator. I only realised this a little while ago.

What I'm trying to find out if I can do is to remove the glass without unbolting the regulator and taking the inner door to pieces to get behind it so I can put in a new expansion pin. If the glass isn't attached to anything, can I simply remove the seals and pull it out? If so, how...?

A few sites I've found suggest I can do it without taking the window out, but given it's glass and everything, I don't want to risk trying to hammer the pin through and break the window. Similarly, while I normally follow the instructions for the MK4 Golf, the design doesn't seem to be quite the same...

 

[mty12345]

Hi mate, IMO the only way to do it is to remove the inner door panel. It's pretty easy to do. It's the same as the golf once the door panel is off. From memory it's just the 2 screws inside the handle the same as the front.

 

[iammooks]

Hi mate, IMO the only way to do it is to remove the inner door panel. It's pretty easy to do. It's the same as the golf once the door panel is off. From memory it's just the 2 screws inside the handle the same as the front.

Hi there,

Thanks for this - I've never had issues taking off the door panel, but it's the inner metal skin I'd like to avoid taking off if I can. I've done it before when I've re-done the door seals and the driver's lock, but it's a pain having to detach the handle, lock etc.

Do you know if there's a way of removing the window without going the whole hog and removing the metal skin? Right now I've taken the strip at the bottom of the window/top of the door off (the one the door card hangs from) but trying to take off the rest of the door strips it doesn't feel like it wants to come off.

I should really take photos - I'm rubbish at explaining it...!

 

[iammooks]

Hi mate, IMO the only way to do it is to remove the inner door panel. It's pretty easy to do. It's the same as the golf once the door panel is off. From memory it's just the 2 screws inside the handle the same as the front.

Here we go... So I've taken the strip off the bottom of the window, which gives me a clear view down into the door, but what I need to get out is the strip which is on the second photo. I've kind of pulled it away, so the adhesive has come away a little, but it doesn't seem to want to come out so I can actually pull the window out.

Do I need to take the regulator off, or will that not affect anything?

The Seat manual doesn't help much as it refers to screws that aren't there - like taking a bolt out below the lock that doesn't seem to exist, as well as the fact that the MK1 rear doors have two windows, not one... https://workshop-manuals.com/seat/l...k/glazing/window_mechanism/rear_door_windows/

 

[SteveWM]

The glass has two plastic bits that fit through a hole in the bottom of the glass panel. Before putting the metal regulator plate back on they should have put the larger split piece of plastic in the hole and pushed the smaller one into it. It expands the split plastic bit to be firm in the glass hole.

Then when you have fitted the metal regulator panel back in place the window glass just slides down the channels and with a firm push clips into the winder regulator.

The hole with the grommet in the metal regulator panel is to tap the inner and split plastic bits out of the hole in the glass so that you can lift the glass. I don’t think you could do the reverse with the metal regulator panel in place.

I did try and do the same as you one time when I had forgotten to put the bits of plastic in place before bolting up the material regulator plate. I tried all sorts through the grommet hole but the bits of plastic are too tight and there’s no way to hold the split one and tap in the expander.

You will spend less time in the long run just wiping of the regulator. It doesn’t take more the a half hour to remove and refit.




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[iammooks]

The glass has two plastic bits that fit through a hole in the bottom of the glass panel. Before putting the metal regulator plate back on they should have put the larger split piece of plastic in the hole and pushed the smaller one into it. It expands the split plastic bit to be firm in the glass hole.

Then when you have fitted the metal regulator panel back in place the window glass just slides down the channels and with a firm push clips into the winder regulator.

The hole with the grommet in the metal regulator panel is to tap the inner and split plastic bits out of the hole in the glass so that you can lift the glass. I don’t think you could do the reverse with the metal regulator panel in place.

I did try and do the same as you one time when I had forgotten to put the bits of plastic in place before bolting up the material regulator plate. I tried all sorts through the grommet hole but the bits of plastic are too tight and there’s no way to hold the split one and tap in the expander.

You will spend less time in the long run just wiping of the regulator. It doesn’t take more the a half hour to remove and refit.

Looks like I'll have to take it all apart then - it's just been so wet and rainy here lately that it would be easier to just pull it out and put it back in. That and I live on a one-way street and the parking is on the right and it's the left hand door that needs fixing...

I'll try and do it all step by step, so I can see if there's any point where I can take the window out without taking the metal skin off too. Anything to save a bit of time.

I'll pop back and let you know how I get on - thanks for your reply...

 

[iammooks]

All done...

In the end I wasn't able to get the window out - no matter how much I tried, the guides/seals just didn't want to come out to allow me to lift it out through the top of the door. I removed the window regulator motor, the door locking wire, unbolted the metal panel, reached behind it and wriggled the window out of the carrier and then lent it on the inside of the door, hoping it didn't slip, then pulled the metal inner away as much as I could.

The expansion pin I got in using a pair of plumber's pipe grip pliers, pushing it in a little way before putting it in the window - it likes to have even pressure so it doesn't try to go in at an angle. Pushed it into the carrier with a satisfying clunk and then put things back together so I could test it. Window now goes down - which it didn't before - and back up. When I put it up the second time, there was a lound bang and I was expecting to see a huge crack form in the window, but I'm guessing that was just everything settling in and the expansion pin seating itself properly.

When I was looking for the plastic expansion pin (stock picture below), I couldn't find anything specific on what it was called, which made it a bugger to get hold of one. Some people call it an expansion pin, other people call it something along the lines of a peg and dowel. Seat call it an expandable plug though.

Just for reference, the part number is: 6N0839511.

Hopefully if anyone is searching Google in the future, they might end up here and actually find out what it is. Seat sold me mine for 61p each, when at the moment there are people selling them on eBay at around £4 with £4 postage.

Now I just have to go and write a scathing review of the garage that took the plug out and never replaced it. They've got form - a few years back I had a diagnostic light flashing and got charged a fair bit checking it all out. Found out afterwards that the light flashes if you've got a bulb blown...

 

[SteveWM]

All done...

In the end I wasn't able to get the window out - no matter how much I tried, the guides/seals just didn't want to come out to allow me to lift it out through the top of the door. I removed the window regulator motor, the door locking wire, unbolted the metal panel, reached behind it and wriggled the window out of the carrier and then lent it on the inside of the door, hoping it didn't slip, then pulled the metal inner away as much as I could.

The expansion pin I got in using a pair of plumber's pipe grip pliers, pushing it in a little way before putting it in the window - it likes to have even pressure so it doesn't try to go in at an angle. Pushed it into the carrier with a satisfying clunk and then put things back together so I could test it. Window now goes down - which it didn't before - and back up. When I put it up the second time, there was a lound bang and I was expecting to see a huge crack form in the window, but I'm guessing that was just everything settling in and the expansion pin seating itself properly.

When I was looking for the plastic expansion pin (stock picture below), I couldn't find anything specific on what it was called, which made it a bugger to get hold of one. Some people call it an expansion pin, other people call it something along the lines of a peg and dowel. Seat call it an expandable plug though.

Just for reference, the part number is: 6N0839511.

Hopefully if anyone is searching Google in the future, they might end up here and actually find out what it is. Seat sold me mine for 61p each, when at the moment there are people selling them on eBay at around £4 with £4 postage.

Now I just have to go and write a scathing review of the garage that took the plug out and never replaced it. They've got form - a few years back I had a diagnostic light flashing and got charged a fair bit checking it all out. Found out afterwards that the light flashes if you've got a bulb blown...
View attachment 3061

Glad you got it sorted fella, having forgotten to put it in myself it is a pain, garage should of taken the time to strip it back down and sort it properly.


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[SalSheikh]

thanks to the OP for providing the part number for the pin as my window doesnt move but the regulator etc moves fine.
Thanks for the info

 

[iammooks]

thanks to the OP for providing the part number for the pin as my window doesnt move but the regulator etc moves fine.
Thanks for the info

No problem - it's a nightmare when you find a thread and someone's posted links to the parts on eBay or somewhere, but not the part numbers - that or it's some old photo hosting site that deleted the images years before and the photo you can't see is some essential part of the process...

 

[SalSheikh]

My rear drivers side window wont go down
I opened the door card and tried to remove the metal card but couldnt fully even though i had removed all the nuts
I tried the window and could see the mechanism go up and down so i am guessing its that pin that needs replacing?
Ill get a better look over the weekend...30min on lunch break isnt enough!

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[iammooks]

My rear drivers side window wont go down
I opened the door card and tried to remove the metal card but couldnt fully even though i had removed all the nuts
I tried the window and could see the mechanism go up and down so i am guessing its that pin that needs replacing?
Ill get a better look over the weekend...30min on lunch break isnt enough!

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The rear doors are an absolute nightmare compared to the fronts - I'm dreading the locks needing replacing again because I'll have to muck about with the expansion plug again.

If your window motor still works, it sounds like it could be a missing plug. On mine, I could hear the window motor running, but the window wouldn't go down. If I pressed the button until the motor stopped, I could then push the window down by hand. That's a sure sign that there's no plug in the glass.

There's a rubber tag/flap you can open on the metal card and you can see the window guides go up and down. It'll save you from taking every last thing off the card, since that's what you need to do to get the card fully off. I screengrabbed from a YouTube video so you can see where.

The big question is where the pin went? Normally the windows don't stay up, rather than not come down. I was unlucky in that my garage screwed me over - they took it out, clearly didn't have a replacement and just wound the window up, knowing that it was the middle of winter and I wasn't likely to open the rear window for another six months. Have you had any work done on your door recently?

 

[g60stu]

I removed my rear door card yesterday in preparation for changing the door look. It’s been intermittent for about a decade now and I know I’ve been pushing my luck.

How many of those plastic plugs are required per door?
What is the bit circled in the picture for?

 

[Alexis27]

http://dubsteve68.blogspot.com/2011/05/seat-leon-leaking-door-seals-repair.html

The "Golf trim clips"? Four I think.

The white thing has a rod that goes to the lock for the central locking I think.

Just a word of advice - the rears are an absolute pig of a job. I ended up taking mine to a garage and even they said it was a nightmare.

 

[g60stu]

Yes, given it is only just February I will likely put this job off for as long as possible, but want to make sure I have all the parts needed to get the job done.

 

[iammooks]

I think the plastic part with the weights in the bottom of it just acts as a counterweight for the locking mechanism. If you lock and unlock the door with the door card off, you'll see it move. I don't know what it does exactly, but it might take some of the strain of the lock motor - it's a pretty powerful 'clunk' after all.

As for the clips, I just bought a big bag of them and have worked my way through them over the years. You need as many as you break taking them off...

Lots has changed since I made this thread - I'm super comfortable taking the rear door apart now, so if you get into a bind, just post here or drop me a message. The secret weapon for getting the peg and dowel out is a decking screw, and with the window taken care of, the rest is much more straightforward.

As you can tell from this thread, I used to fanny about trying to leave the top bolts off the door inner in, so that I could reach behind and try to do everything I needed to. It's much harder that way.


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[g60stu]

Thanks for your reply.
Jusy to confirm that there is only one peg and dowel (6N0839511) needed per rear window? (and any spares I need if I mess up)
I watched the video in another thread. In the latter half of the video it shows the glass "frame" being removed and some vertical guard rail being removed - is all that necessary to replace the lock module??

Mk1 seat leon (1M) rear door glass re-install

Hi guys, so i have recently had to remove the inner plastic mechanism located behind my driver side rear door handle as I accidentally removed the small torx screw and the anodised ring that sits on the edge of the screw dropped loose. I followed the following video to help me get to this...

www.seatcupra.net

Video link -

 

[g60stu]

Didn’t get an answer to my last question… can anyone help? TIA

I watched the video in another thread. In the latter half of the video it shows the glass "frame" being removed and some vertical guard rail being removed - is all that necessary to replace the lock module??

 

[iammooks]

Didn’t get an answer to my last question… can anyone help? TIA

I watched the video in another thread. In the latter half of the video it shows the glass "frame" being removed and some vertical guard rail being removed - is all that necessary to replace the lock module??

In short, nope.

Taking the window out is the official SEAT way of doing it, and I remember taking the window out when I did the front but now realise I didn't have to - especially given the anxiety it causes.

When you've taken out the peg and dowel, the window will be free - then all you have to do is push the glass upwards so the window is closed, and then you get some good quality duct tape and stick it to the glass and run it over the door frame and stick it to the other side. I do it in two places just for extra security, just in case it lets go.

Like so...

Edit: three places in fact.

I take off the window motor too - three Torx T30s I think, and keep the foam seals. I can't remember if it's necessary, but it saves on having loads of parts still stuck to or in the door.

When you undo the retaining ring for the door handle, be sure to grease it up so it all goes back together - mine have all been seized and they can ping off if you're not careful.

Have you got a triple square for the lock bolts?


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[g60stu]

Great. That’s what I wanted to hear. I have a triple square bit from when I did the front driver side lock many years ago so I think I have enough to do this job now. Just wanted to be sure given how everyone states what a PITA the rears are.