Please read: Precations to stop timing chain jumping after oil change

[lucifer666]

lucifer666 , I'm certainly not trying to "poo poo" your comments about this happening, what I was or am trying to do is to provoke open discussion about this possiblility as by doing that, the message might get out to the open world and that should make VAG wake up and sort it out, including some retro action for those still in the VAG dealership service loop.

I'm not suggesting that you were getting grumpy about my previous posting, I'm just making it clear to all what I hope to achieve potentially for myself and others, ie reduce the future risk of disaster.

I'm still on the previous range of VAG cars but will eventually move on, so I'm keen to know what I'm walking into, maybe that means I should grab one of the last of the 1.4 16V 85PS engine cars for my wife's next runaround, and live in the past with that engines ways of doing things.

I welcome all views and opinions from everyone. I can understand where you are coming from.

 

[lucifer666]

UPDATE

Car is now with autograph waiting for the timing chain to be replaced, then final ecu mapping.

Having checked the oil level, before leaving it with them, I found that it had lost around a liter of oil, resulting in the level being on the orange ball of the dipstick.

Ridiculous considering the car was only used on 2 occasions since doing the service. Both of which were before I knew why the car was having trouble starting. The two times were both 250mile journeys so I have more than likely damaged the valve train by driving it and now possibly the piston rings by running it low on oil.

I was speaking to the technicians at autograph....they said they had several tsi engines come in over the last 6 months with this problem. They currently have a 1.2tsi Ibiza in with the same problem, the head is getting stripped down now because of damage to the valves. They confirmed with me that this problem seems to happen with all the new tsi engines with the oil filter inverted pointing up and the tensioner is to blame when hot oil is drained.

Another mechanic I spoke to said to leave around 500ml of oil in the car when doing changes so the tensioner dosent drain fully.

Anyway depending on the damage im looking at 600-1800 pound bill

 

[CraigFrTsi]

So basically when it comes to oil change do it cold and leave (minimum for arguments sake) 500ml in the car. Just so I'm clear for when I or (can't be arsed lol) instruct the garage

 

[DEAN0]

Really not nice to hear of yet another potential issue with these engines.

I am gobsmacked that engines today can still be designed with such basic errors and faults.
Who in todays service oriented market puts an engine on the market where every oil change is a potential engine rebuild ??
Or creates an engine where 1 ltr of oil per 1000km (600 miles ) is acceptable ??

Back in 1996 - Honda introduced an 1137cc motor in the Blackbird with a normally aspirated 164hp and an 11,000 redline.
It doesn't use oil in between oil changes and good examples have over 250,000 miles on them with very little oil use at all.
And it will do around 45mpg when cruising.

 

[lucifer666]

Yeah. Make sure you fill the oil filter too before you start it.


And yes, yet another problem. Im very close to pulling the plug on the entire project at the moment.

 

[CraigFrTsi]

Thanks mate hopefully with this now I can't help protect the car more as I'm coming up to 30k miles, when do they say (if they say) to change timing chain?

 

[Bocawata]

I had timing chain failure at 45,000 miles and again it was three days after the service!!!,what is going on when here we are discussing about"leaving some old oil in the sump" and "only draining the oil when its cold"!!!, this 2014 for heavens sake when engines if any thing should be more reliable !!!.
Is it not time that either Seat/ VW or a Motoring Organisation/ Press/Motor Magazine/Motoring Programme took this issue up and lets get to the bottom of this dreadful situation!!!
I must say that my car seems to be running as well as ever!!! fingers crossed!!!
Bocawata.

 

[lucifer666]

Its a joke I know. Its like talking to a brick wall. I know in other countries they have managed to get vw to acknowledge some different issues, and got them to agree to fix these problems. Problem is there are less strict rules in this country.

Ive completely had it with this engine, and subsequently am boycotting vw after this. If I do get one it will be a second hand one from a private seller.

 

[wezzel98765]

Now I’d like some clarification if you may

After a normal run, when hot, the oil will do the exact same thing during day to day use, than an oil change - it’ll drain down to the sump.

What you’re saying, is that by leaving the sump plug in (not doing a change), that the oil will not drain down? So why, when the plug is removed, does the oil then drain down off these components, but not when not having an oil change? Forget the fact that the oil is leaving the vehicle, imagine that the sump is just lower than it is. The oil will still do the same will it not ? Unless you’re telling me that the oil is always covering the tensioner with the plug in, then your theory can only be incorrect surely?
To summarise, hot oil after a run - will all drain into the sump - sump is now full, oil has flowed from engine to sump as it is hot and the oil has “drained”
Hot oil after a run, drain out for change, then refilled, sump full of oil again
Both scenarios are the same ...?

 

[RUM4MO]

I agree, so why is this at its worst when emptying the sump?
Hopefully someone can say exactly why this is/can happen.
Maybe due to the oil level dropping below the oil pickup pipe and so air gets into the oil pickup pipe which this engine can not tolerate safely.