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Pastywagon Sprint Dates 2011 - more aero work
- Thread starter RobT
- Start date
- Status
Yes it is. Tubing has still not arrived but as soon as it does, local engineering shop will tig em together.
Stripped all the front suspension down today - good job - brake caliper bolts were loose on one side.......pads worn at an angle.....damn sure I tightened em up right but I guess they do get a wee bit hot
Stripped all the front suspension down today - good job - brake caliper bolts were loose on one side.......pads worn at an angle.....damn sure I tightened em up right but I guess they do get a wee bit hot
Hmm - test fit has shown up a minor issue. Being as the threads are left handed on one end, and right handed on the other (to make the tube section into a pukka turnbuckle to shorten and lengthen the link by turning one way or the other) it is impossible to lock the locknuts without having some way of gripping the tube - like some flats or suchlike.
Didn't think of that
Threaded inserts with a hex are needed, but I couldn't and cannot find any in M14x1.5 thread.
rather than
Could get some made of course, out of hex bar. Option 1.
Option 2 is to see if I can get some flats machined on what we already have, but suspect the wall thickness of the tube is not enough.
Option 3 is to drill a hole through the tube to stop it turning with a bar - but have been advised that this will significantly weaken the tube. Strike that idea.
Option 4. Maybe could drill a large nut out, like a CV joint nut, and weld that over the end.
Will go see my machinist man Monday and see what he thinks.
Didn't think of that
Threaded inserts with a hex are needed, but I couldn't and cannot find any in M14x1.5 thread.
rather than
Could get some made of course, out of hex bar. Option 1.
Option 2 is to see if I can get some flats machined on what we already have, but suspect the wall thickness of the tube is not enough.
Option 3 is to drill a hole through the tube to stop it turning with a bar - but have been advised that this will significantly weaken the tube. Strike that idea.
Option 4. Maybe could drill a large nut out, like a CV joint nut, and weld that over the end.
Will go see my machinist man Monday and see what he thinks.
Should be good to go now as have added flats to take 19mm spanner, and retigged joint. Now can lock the locknuts.....
Got the inserts with pukka hex section 'in production', just waiting for a left hand tap
Also parts for brake ducts back from welding
All just need a clean and a lick of paint today.
'Other' parts for brake duct mod have arrived at work also......exciting
Got the inserts with pukka hex section 'in production', just waiting for a left hand tap
Also parts for brake ducts back from welding
All just need a clean and a lick of paint today.
'Other' parts for brake duct mod have arrived at work also......exciting
I like all of this.
Brake ducts look familiar design to a set I've seen on CGTI - are these the same 'mount' with a bigger tube?
Brake ducts look familiar design to a set I've seen on CGTI - are these the same 'mount' with a bigger tube?
These are some I bought from AS-TECHNiK from CGTI yes - But like a lot of people, im not sure if he is on there anymore. They had to be modified quite a bit with a longer tube, and the bracket is now modified also to clear my brake setup. I could of almost started from scratch tbh....oh well, some time saved I reckon. If they work, will remake in ali. They fit just fine on std cars - one of constant issues once you start changing things.
Steering rods are on - very nice - swine of a job getting the steering bellows back on though . Pic tomorrow. Brakes back on also tomorrow once the Hammerite has dried.
Steering rods are on - very nice - swine of a job getting the steering bellows back on though . Pic tomorrow. Brakes back on also tomorrow once the Hammerite has dried.
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Finally decided to buy a trailer after arriving at races a bit too frazzled last year - sequential gearbox especially is not so much fun on the road anymore. Also want to do some more aero work which will not work so well with road use.
So mulled over a few options, Brian James, Ifor Williams, Bateman, Fountain, even considered buying an aluminium trailer from the US. But finally decided to buy local, from PRG Trailers in Crewe, Cheshire, close to where I live.
http://www.prgtrailers.co.uk/. They do a lot of racing themselves with Escorts and Thundersaloons so know what works and what doesnot.
Have gone for a Supersport tilt bed, 14ft x special order 6ft 5" (needed as the car is now 6ft wide....)
Standard equipment is high security hitch lock, spare wheel and winch.
Options are high level tyre rack (as pictured), center decking (as pictured), adjustable wheel chocks, and jerry can storage box.
Have also gone for the optional punched decking so can use this very nice securing method that is much more secure, and easier to attach, than the standard 'round the outside of the wheel' methods.
Well chuffed. They did me a great deal also - MUCH cheaper than Brian James and the quality looks absolutely top notch when I visited their factory a couple weeks ago. Delivery in a few weeks.
Front grill work is continuing and are planning to mount brake ducts in the areas where the lights used to be (removed as I dont need them anymore).
Going to fit some of these 2.5" ducts from Revotec - £8 apiece! we like that
Rest of the 'light' will be black, with grill kiwi. Should look pretty cool.
Still need to cut some of the center section out today for the engine air feed.
Didn't want to put the brake ducts down near the splitter as I think it will reduce its effectiveness - having the big blank slab of spoiler above the splitter is good for the positive pressure zone and any ducts in this area will only bleed this pressure away. Did think of putting naca brake ducts into the splitter floor, behind the bumper, but are not convinced this will be a positive pressure zone, which is needed obviously for the duct to blow air to the brakes.
Ave it
Rob
So mulled over a few options, Brian James, Ifor Williams, Bateman, Fountain, even considered buying an aluminium trailer from the US. But finally decided to buy local, from PRG Trailers in Crewe, Cheshire, close to where I live.
http://www.prgtrailers.co.uk/. They do a lot of racing themselves with Escorts and Thundersaloons so know what works and what doesnot.
Have gone for a Supersport tilt bed, 14ft x special order 6ft 5" (needed as the car is now 6ft wide....)
Standard equipment is high security hitch lock, spare wheel and winch.
Options are high level tyre rack (as pictured), center decking (as pictured), adjustable wheel chocks, and jerry can storage box.
Have also gone for the optional punched decking so can use this very nice securing method that is much more secure, and easier to attach, than the standard 'round the outside of the wheel' methods.
Well chuffed. They did me a great deal also - MUCH cheaper than Brian James and the quality looks absolutely top notch when I visited their factory a couple weeks ago. Delivery in a few weeks.
Front grill work is continuing and are planning to mount brake ducts in the areas where the lights used to be (removed as I dont need them anymore
).
Going to fit some of these 2.5" ducts from Revotec - £8 apiece! we like that
Rest of the 'light' will be black, with grill kiwi. Should look pretty cool.
Still need to cut some of the center section out today for the engine air feed.
Didn't want to put the brake ducts down near the splitter as I think it will reduce its effectiveness - having the big blank slab of spoiler above the splitter is good for the positive pressure zone and any ducts in this area will only bleed this pressure away. Did think of putting naca brake ducts into the splitter floor, behind the bumper, but are not convinced this will be a positive pressure zone, which is needed obviously for the duct to blow air to the brakes.
Ave it
Rob
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Just gets cooler & cooler.
I remember when you got this back in the day.
Nice to see someone working their way round the inefficiencies of a road car
I remember when you got this back in the day.
Nice to see someone working their way round the inefficiencies of a road car
Cheers. Yes its a very different car to back then, there arnt actually many mechanical parts that are original any more
. Just love thinking ways around problems and making mods. Have just bought another book on aero and have some plans for the rest of the cars underside, time allowing. Be nice to get this done for next year. Still needs mapping as well after exhaust mods.Brake ducts are done.
Just deciding what to do with the middle bit of the grill now to feed air to the engine - want enough air, but not too much to cause too much drag.
Interesting what the tourers are doing:
Look like much smaller engine air intakes than you would imagine.......
Also got some radiator ducting on the go to improve efficiency and reduce drag there also
Just deciding what to do with the middle bit of the grill now to feed air to the engine - want enough air, but not too much to cause too much drag.
Interesting what the tourers are doing:
Look like much smaller engine air intakes than you would imagine.......
Also got some radiator ducting on the go to improve efficiency and reduce drag there also
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On that Leon WTCC TDI, the bottom hole is for both radiator & brake ducts & the top is the intercooler
Overheats if not going at >60mph though, same as WTCC daewoo, except the two in the grille at the engine inlets I believe.
Which route did you take for the ductwork? under the chassis leg, or over the chassis leg & through the gap at the top of the inner wing?
Overheats if not going at >60mph though, same as WTCC daewoo, except the two in the grille at the engine inlets I believe.
Which route did you take for the ductwork? under the chassis leg, or over the chassis leg & through the gap at the top of the inner wing?
The drivers side duct goes straight down from headlight down engine side of chassis leg and then along. Passenger side goes wing side of chassis leg and along.
Thing is my car does not overheat with the rad that it has, and the rad is fed by the holes in the bumper. Just over half the grill used to feed the engine inlet, the other half was blanked off. I am wondering if I need such a large hole in the grill.........
Thing is my car does not overheat with the rad that it has, and the rad is fed by the holes in the bumper. Just over half the grill used to feed the engine inlet, the other half was blanked off. I am wondering if I need such a large hole in the grill.........
BINI from Ypres June '11...
using top left of main grille for airbox?
Skoda S2000 from '09 minus the bumper
do we think that opening feeds into airbox via a pipe near the blue hose on R/H side or is it an aero aid of some kind?
airbox feed is blanked off but i'd have thought there's no need to remove the feed unless it's attached to the bumper?
...amd when you've got the luxury of starting from scratch for ducts
using top left of main grille for airbox?
Skoda S2000 from '09 minus the bumper
do we think that opening feeds into airbox via a pipe near the blue hose on R/H side or is it an aero aid of some kind?
airbox feed is blanked off but i'd have thought there's no need to remove the feed unless it's attached to the bumper?
...amd when you've got the luxury of starting from scratch for ducts
closer inspection of another pic of same Skoda & it appears it's more likely the Sump guard, maybe dual purpose as a feed as well?
Ok, so what do we think about the proposed grill opening? arrived at by the very sophisticated aerodynamically proven 'looks about right to me' method 
Basically I thought a rectangle as the holes below were rectangles. Positioned so it is ahead of the filter that can be seen above.
Basically I thought a rectangle as the holes below were rectangles. Positioned so it is ahead of the filter that can be seen above.
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