o2 sensor location? Bank1 sensor 1
- Thread starter Ash23
- Start date
Sensor 1 is the first O2 sensor down the exhaust from the manifold, so very close to the front of the car. Ignore the Bank 1 reference as a "straight" or "inline" engine only has a cylinder head bank, ie Bank 1.
Edit:- sometimes access is tight, but you will only be able to comment on that once you have eye balled it.
Edit:- sometimes access is tight, but you will only be able to comment on that once you have eye balled it.
had my one changed, if you do it yourself run engine first to get warm, Then use the correct socket with the side cut out to allow the socket to fit sensor. then slowly undo , if you soak it in easing fluid overnight this helps. if its the first sensor it will cost roughly £80 a Bosch one.
The second sensor is not available only at the stealers at £150. but the bank 1 normally goes wrong , mine was at 36K miles.
The second sensor is not available only at the stealers at £150. but the bank 1 normally goes wrong , mine was at 36K miles.
I've only ever needed to replace one pre cat Lambda sensor, as that car, a 2002 VW Polo was only roughly 7 years 70K miles, I followed the advice to buy same brand as VW Group does, ie NTK which is the sensor arm of NGK, in the end, getting one to my door via the internet was only a few £s less than getting my local VW dealer's parts department to order one in.
Unfortunately, that engine, a BBY 1.4 16V petrol engine, must have been the worst engine for access to that sensor, I bought the correct deep socket with the cut out for the lead - but there was not enough space to fit it onto that sensor, so I needed to buy a couple of slightly different open-ended spanners and cut them down in length so that I could get them onto that sensor, then degree by degree managed to unscrew it - that was the only reason to buy 2 different open-ended spanners, ie access was so tight that using only one spanner would never had allowed me to rotate the sensor enough to move onto the next flat!
That one was not seized at all, the original assembly grease was supposed to have small glass beads in it so that they did not seize, the new, at least VW Group branded NTK sensor came pre-greased.
Since I did that job many years ago, there seems to be a better tool for removing them, the much cheaper typically version that is just a flat split ring with a 3/8" square drive bit on the side of it.
Unfortunately, that engine, a BBY 1.4 16V petrol engine, must have been the worst engine for access to that sensor, I bought the correct deep socket with the cut out for the lead - but there was not enough space to fit it onto that sensor, so I needed to buy a couple of slightly different open-ended spanners and cut them down in length so that I could get them onto that sensor, then degree by degree managed to unscrew it - that was the only reason to buy 2 different open-ended spanners, ie access was so tight that using only one spanner would never had allowed me to rotate the sensor enough to move onto the next flat!
That one was not seized at all, the original assembly grease was supposed to have small glass beads in it so that they did not seize, the new, at least VW Group branded NTK sensor came pre-greased.
Since I did that job many years ago, there seems to be a better tool for removing them, the much cheaper typically version that is just a flat split ring with a 3/8" square drive bit on the side of it.
O2 sensor issues can sometimes affect engine performance, especially in terms of fuel efficiency and throttle response. If you're replacing it yourself, soaking it in penetrating oil overnight can make removal easier. Also, if you're looking to improve overall car performance, gearbox settings play a crucial role in how power is delivered. This guide on gearbox settings for Car Parking Multiplayer explains it well: https://carsparkingmultiplayer.com/gearbox-settings/ – while it's for the game, the principles can also be applied in real life for fine-tuning shifts and drive feel.
Similar threads
