Lee, lol, a bit confused here, looked at the pic and can only see the lock nut and bolt, where does the extra nut come into play?
Drill the hole and put the bolt through add the nut to secure the bolt put on the linkage and then add the lock nut.
neuspeed short shift
- Thread starter mrvavavoom
- Start date
Drill the hole and put the bolt through add the nut to secure the bolt put on the linkage and then add the lock nut.
is this right? the forward backward throw sounds like its worth a bit of worth and £2. Im guessing I can do this with a 1.6S 8v? mk1?
clifford
Guest
I was reading up on the short shift mod earlier, i love my cheap and easy mods. Im still not 100% certern on this 1 thou. Will the treads of the bolt not eventually wear through the hole drilled? Or atleast make the hole bigger which will result in sloppy gear changes?
t32er
Guest
i think im going to be doing this at the weekend, in terms of thightnes (not meaning in the pocket) how tight should to bolt be to the linkage??
clifford
Guest
done mine, simple ten min job, and such a difference!! WOW, no going back to standard for me lol
by the way you are best to reset all the cables and lock off the gearstick in the car as directed on the Forge website, otherwise you will find it very hard to get into reverse , and all the gears will feel 'notchy'
need any pics or owt giz a shout
by the way you are best to reset all the cables and lock off the gearstick in the car as directed on the Forge website, otherwise you will find it very hard to get into reverse , and all the gears will feel 'notchy'
need any pics or owt giz a shout
Yeah, it's great isn't it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp9ggefOjAEby the way you are best to reset all the cables and lock off the gearstick in the car as directed on the Forge website, otherwise you will find it very hard to get into reverse , and all the gears will feel 'notchy'
need any pics or owt giz a shout
this is going to be my "Mod of the day" tomorrow. I def prefere the idea of using a smaller bolt and sleeving it.
Im confused though sounds like you need:
a bolt
a nut
And another nut but this time a nylone locking nut.
WTF why two nuts?
and do you need thin metal washers too? if so how many
Im confused though sounds like you need:
a bolt
a nut
And another nut but this time a nylone locking nut.
WTF why two nuts?
and do you need thin metal washers too? if so how many
Bolt and nut to hold it tight to the gear change bit
Put on the cable then the lock nut to stop it jumping off, anything else is how you want it to be.
Put on the cable then the lock nut to stop it jumping off, anything else is how you want it to be.
what size nuts/bolts? and what size if i get a sleeve?... btw where do i get a sleeve? lol i dont want to wear the linkage.
just done this after SEARCHING lol - Sorry Lee
You need M10 max length 50mm
1 x normal nut
1 x nyloc
Just be careful where you drill as the back end of the is not flat.
Whilst I locked both the box and gear lever and then adjusted, reverse is a little bit of a pain to reach.
Will try and tweak before the wiff gets in and throws her toys.
You need M10 max length 50mm
1 x normal nut
1 x nyloc
Just be careful where you drill as the back end of the is not flat.
Whilst I locked both the box and gear lever and then adjusted, reverse is a little bit of a pain to reach.
Will try and tweak before the wiff gets in and throws her toys.
Just been back out to look at this, I found that a 4.8mm drill bit was ideal for securing the gear lever into its set position. Once in place I locked the box again and the reset the selector cable. When I took the cable off there was some pressure behind it so this would have been from the gear lever not being located correctly forst time round.
Once the cable was reset I took the locking pins out and reverse was easily selectable!!!
woohoo.
A bit of a pain to adjust the cable but I did still have the airbox bolted in...
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