My 1.9 TDI 110 SE

[Coops1645]

Not sure what your setup is, but TT/LCR front end set up is different.

If you have the non R setup you'll need the following to make the change:

-Cupra R coilovers - for the droplink mount
-TT/LCR droplinks
-Measure your new ARB diamater against your old one, and get the matching ARB bushes

The job requires dropping the subframe

The job can apparently be done using the original droplinks mounted from the wishbones, albeit the drop links will sit at an angle and won't improve the suspension ride but also won't make it any worse. Spoke to a guy last night who had this setup on his golf with some pictures to prove it could be done so I'm just going off of that. Just gotta give it a shot and suck it and see really, it either works or it doesn't but from what I've read it should be possible

 

[Connor H]

The job can apparently be done using the original droplinks mounted from the wishbones, albeit the drop links will sit at an angle and won't improve the suspension ride but also won't make it any worse. Spoke to a guy last night who had this setup on his golf with some pictures to prove it could be done so I'm just going off of that. Just gotta give it a shot and suck it and see really, it either works or it doesn't but from what I've read it should be possible

Interesting to know! im doing the same mod, got everything except coilovers.

i got the droplinks for a TT for a tenner. Saves possible hassle!

 

[Coops1645]

Interesting to know! im doing the same mod, got everything except coilovers.

i got the droplinks for a TT for a tenner. Saves possible hassle!

If I would have had a bit more forward planning I would have done it the way you're doing it and saved myself a whole load of sitting around researching what can be done to solve the issue and the possibility of it not working out how I hope it will I do plan on at some point getting myself an aftermarket rear ARB and also a lower strut brace to fit, but I'm sure that having too much stiffness present in the body can actually negatively affect the suspension. Have to check though, as it's been a while since I did all my Motorsport suspension training

 

[iammooks]

Just take your time with the bolts, loosen then tighten if you think the bolt might give way, if you can't do that just try blasting it with WD. Is yours a diesel or a petrol? If it's a petrol I wouldn't think there's much reason to clean the inlet, as they don't have the carbon problem that diesels do, if it is a diesel, the throttle body you cleaned was actually the EGR, diesels don't work like petrol, the air is constant, the throttle is controlled by the volume of fuel. Hope this helps

I've come across a few videos on YouTube about loosening and tightening - seems to be the best way of not snapping bolts - that and not taking them all out once you've loosened them as you spread the load over the whole manifold.

It is indeed the EGR valve. You see and hear them called so many things, but yes, mine's the diesel. I've got the FR 150 but it's more or less the same. When I cleaned the valve, I got a good couple of hundred grams of soot out of it, so the intake manifold is probably hiding more than a bit more than that. To be honest it's a job I should have started when lockdown started, but then I've been meaning to install new pedal covers and do a brake fluid change since March, and that's not happened.


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[Coops1645]

I've come across a few videos on YouTube about loosening and tightening - seems to be the best way of not snapping bolts - that and not taking them all out once you've loosened them as you spread the load over the whole manifold.

It is indeed the EGR valve. You see and hear them called so many things, but yes, mine's the diesel. I've got the FR 150 but it's more or less the same. When I cleaned the valve, I got a good couple of hundred grams of soot out of it, so the intake manifold is probably hiding more than a bit more than that. To be honest it's a job I should have started when lockdown started, but then I've been meaning to install new pedal covers and do a brake fluid change since March, and that's not happened.


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That's pretty much all you can do, unfortunately though bolts that are on components that take the most heat will more than likely be the ones that snap, and that's not your fault, if they're going to snap they're going to snap. It's like everything though, you're only going to learn through experience, plus it's all part of the fun!

Most people delete their EGRs, I guess it's to lower the EGTs and also to keep the soot out of their inlets and such, but I've kept mine fully working as it attaches to the ASV, which in case of a runaway, could be a life saver! Some say it may also improve response and power if deleted, but I guess I'd rather have my engine in tact if anything goes wrong rather than +1bhp.

 

[Connor H]

I've come across a few videos on YouTube about loosening and tightening - seems to be the best way of not snapping bolts - that and not taking them all out once you've loosened them as you spread the load over the whole manifold.

It is indeed the EGR valve. You see and hear them called so many things, but yes, mine's the diesel. I've got the FR 150 but it's more or less the same. When I cleaned the valve, I got a good couple of hundred grams of soot out of it, so the intake manifold is probably hiding more than a bit more than that. To be honest it's a job I should have started when lockdown started, but then I've been meaning to install new pedal covers and do a brake fluid change since March, and that's not happened.


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Honestly mate, as long as its not visibly corroded it will unlikely snap unless you go full r*tard on it. A squirt of wd40 an hour before starting should see you through.

 

[Coops1645]

So...
I managed to fit the TT ARB today, not a bad job really, wouldn't rate it a hard job, just a case of having 2 axle stands, a trolley jack, and I used a bottle jack to help me align the subframe back up. Aligning the subframe again was the worst part, the nearside lined up perfectly, but for the life of me I couldn't get the rear bolt to line up with the thread nicely, and in the end I had to bite the bullet and just go for it, and praying it the bolt didn't snap or strip, but thankfully it survived and it was all back together within half an hour. Sadly, this hadn't fixed anything for me, as the noise is still happening, right hand lock, left side grinding, I know for certain the ARB isn't touching the shaft, so I think the CV joint on the passenger side is causing the problem, even though it doesn't look that bad really, but it's the only thing visibly weakened that could cause the noise. Also discovered my gearbox is leaking slightly, which I presume is from where the box meets the block, which probably means it's a rear seal. Won't be fixed any time soon, but it'll be done when I get the parts together for the SMF. Cars, eh?

 

[Connor H]

So...
I managed to fit the TT ARB today, not a bad job really, wouldn't rate it a hard job, just a case of having 2 axle stands, a trolley jack, and I used a bottle jack to help me align the subframe back up. Aligning the subframe again was the worst part, the nearside lined up perfectly, but for the life of me I couldn't get the rear bolt to line up with the thread nicely, and in the end I had to bite the bullet and just go for it, and praying it the bolt didn't snap or strip, but thankfully it survived and it was all back together within half an hour. Sadly, this hadn't fixed anything for me, as the noise is still happening, right hand lock, left side grinding, I know for certain the ARB isn't touching the shaft, so I think the CV joint on the passenger side is causing the problem, even though it doesn't look that bad really, but it's the only thing visibly weakened that could cause the noise. Also discovered my gearbox is leaking slightly, which I presume is from where the box meets the block, which probably means it's a rear seal. Won't be fixed any time soon, but it'll be done when I get the parts together for the SMF. Cars, eh?

Nice job on the arb. gives me confidence in doing it myself!

 

[Coops1645]

Standard bar coming off

TT bar in comparison

Drop links with TT bar all in place

On ground under weight

As you can see, this gives more than enough clearance and just replace the standard ARB, no other modifications required, ADL may be advised though. Does stiffen the front up a little, makes the steering feel more responsive, but otherwise I wouldn't really know the difference, more just something I can brag about being on the car.

 

[Coops1645]

Nice job on the arb. gives me confidence in doing it myself!

Honestly, the hardest part is aligning the subframe, I was ready for giving up when I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up, but I think it might just have been one of those where it's one in a million who get that problem, but once I'd done the subframe bolts, all that needed to be put on was the dogbone mount, two bolts holding the steering rack, the cat mount, and then just the drop links. Easier than you'd believe!

 

[Coops1645]

Gave the turbo another clean out today, actuator arm seemed free to begin with but car feels a little bit more alive with the boost now, so I'm happy! Decided that I need to upgrade the intercooler at some point as I'm sure heat soak seems to be a problem. I'll only upgrade to an uprated side mount, I've read up enough and just don't see a FMIC necessary for what I hope to achieve with this car. I've read somewhere that a PD130 SMIC is better than the stock AHF/ASV intercooler, but I can't reliably say it's for definite a different part from the stock part on my car, but I've seen some which claim to have a bigger capacity, but I'll need to research further whether these claims are true or not.

 

[Coops1645]

Plans:

Respray
PD150 Turbo
Bigger Injectors
New passenger wing
Colour code side strips
New wheels?
Black roof?
Clean up rear R bumper/change to FR style bumper
Replace rear exhaust/possible decat
Uprated SMIC
SMF and VR6 Clutch
New interior (I like the R seats and the nice red patterns within, but don't want it saying R everywhere when it isn't, possible suggestions?)
HIDs

 

[Coops1645]

Continued...

New bonnet and boot as both have annoying dents in them
Jacking point covers
Get annoying fibreglass strips off the bottom of rear bumper
Stick towing eye cover back on
Replace aftermarket radio with a better one

And for now, that's all I can think of! But I'm sure more will be done, I just wanted to collect a few thoughts of things to do that I can refer to. Haven't put any mechanical fixes or servicing items because you shouldn't need a check list to remember to maintain your engine or fix your car

 

[Yellow fr]

Let me know if you want any parts I’m breaking a cupra tdi with a pd150

Also have a miltek exhaust for it


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[Coops1645]

Let me know if you want any parts I’m breaking a cupra tdi with a pd150

Also have a miltek exhaust for it


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Unless the exhaust is going really cheap matey I probs won't be able to have it, most of the reason the progress on this car has been so slow is because of lack of funds to complete it, so I'm just doing bits where and when I can, or I'm saving like crazy for it will let you know if I'm in desperate need though as I'm still hunting for a decent 150 turbo!

 

[Yellow fr]

Full system for £150


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[Yellow fr]

I have a turbo going spare too

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[Coops1645]

Okay, so a few little things have happened on the car since last time I updated!
Managed to get a pipe to attach on to where the old back box was so at least it's aiming the fumes towards the rear of the car now, also gutted out my cat which has massively improved the performance of the car, the innards didn't look particularly filthy but obviously it was causing a fair bit of restriction in the exhaust as it revs freely and will continue pulling through the range now!
Also managed to get a sunstrip fitted and my front lights tinted, so at least the car is starting to look better. Next steps are to get the exhaust properly fitted at the rear so it'll pass it's MOT and to get the side strips and roof bars colour matched along with the lacquer peel at the front and to sort out the various dents