Mk3 Leon st subwoofer wiring
- Thread starter James_FRwagon
- Start date
I have the mk3 fr , just stupidly bought one with no nav system, just been looking at the line level converter I'm not sure if this works with an active sub though.
Ok so you may have the standard system. In that case you need to tap into your 12v socket power supply as that will be a switched live feed that you can connect your remote cable to. As long as you have a connection between the speaker outputs of the car to the speaker/signal input of the amplifier connections it should all work fine.
I believe if you don't have navigation you will have this unit fitted
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Yeah I'll do that, I've had the head unit out already. Just to have a look, I'm going to have a go tomorrow .thanks for all your help
Ok no problem. If you need any more help send me a message. I spent around 4 hours installing an unofficial version of Seat Sound integrating it with an amplifier, an Audi Bang & Olfsen subwoofer and a 3.5 inch centre dash speaker rather than having the head unit coded and spending a fortune on a wiring harness. Sounds pretty good and more tunable with the right amplifier.Yeah I'll do that, I've had the head unit out already. Just to have a look, I'm going to have a go tomorrow .thanks for all your help
I do now but I spent many hours on this forum and Google searches to find out information. Advice for the 12v power socket, plug in a charger and cable to your phone with the ignition off first to see if any power is going to it. There is a way to change the socket to a permanent live by moving the fuse down on the fuse box which someone may have done before. If no charge to your phone with ignition off then your good to tap into the 12v feed for your remote line to your amplifier. Good luck
Hi. I have a mk3 Leon where I would like to install the same Kenwood sub. The thing is I already have a 12v line directly from the battery under the driver's seat because of a ham radio install. That would be perfect except the fact that the media unit is on the other side and it appears to be impossible to run wires on the inside of the dash. I wouldn't like to run an other 12 volt wire underneath the passenger seat. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi there. If you're planning on running a powerful amp or integrated amp and subwoofer you will need to split the power cable for your ham radio using a distribution block providing the cable from the battery is thick enough to power the amplifier. The mmi unit is only capable of upto 30amps on the power cable so would be ok for a small brick sized amplifier upto about 100w power rating
THere's no problem on the power side of things. I only might need to increase the fuse on the line I put up (10amps for the ham radio alone were enough). I tested that Kenwood (sw11) sub and it tops at about 6-7 amps. My main issue is how to get to the media unit speaker outputs that are on the other side of the dash.
So firstly you need one of these
www.halfords.com
You need to remove mmi unit in the glove box and tap into the speaker wire. If you want to keep original and don't want to cut wires then you need to get a t harness which will extend or just scotch lock into the cables. Then you need to tap into the 12v socket which is a switched live for your remote cable on the amplifier. I know the cables will be on the left side but you can feed them through to the right by removing the panels either side of the lower console where the gear/handbrake is and feed it through there. It is a bit tricky but can be done.
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Thanks for your reply. I made a line attenuator myself with some resistors (10k and 4,7k) and it appears to work fine with my test setup in the house. I have to try the center console, thanks for the tip. Hopefully I can find a video to see how. Basically I need to come down from the mmi unit is, route the cables as hidden as possibile through the center console where the handbrake is and get them on the other side to go underneath the seat.So firstly you need one of these
You need to remove mmi unit in the glove box and tap into the speaker wire. If you want to keep original and don't want to cut wires then you need to get a t harness which will extend or just scotch lock into the cables. Then you need to tap into the 12v socket which is a switched live for your remote cable on the amplifier. I know the cables will be on the left side but you can feed them through to the right by removing the panels either side of the lower console where the gear/handbrake is and feed it through there. It is a bit tricky but can be done.AUTOLEADS LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER | Halfords UK
Shop the latest Autoleads Line Output to RCA at Halfords UK
Hi Carlos, I have the same unit and have just attempted piggy backing the cigarette lighter fuse with the remote wire (due to there being no blue or blue/white remote wire in the harness of my head unit). I am also using an RCA adapter into the FL and FR pos and neg speakers wires. But the amp will not wake up. I have the power (yellow) from the sub going through the firewall onto my pos battery terminal and the ground onto the neg battery terminal bolt. Tested that circuit and it is OK, but getting nothing from the remote wire with ignition on. Cigarette lighter socket has a USB port in it and this is working as it should but still no response from the underseat amp/sub. Any suggestions mate?
Hi russ_08:
With the amp you shouldn't connect the negative cable directly to the battery, you should find an earthing terminal inside the car somewhere and use that.
Check the RCA adapter connections and make sure all the wires are touching correctly etc. Use bullet connectors for a better connection. In theory the 12v socket you connected to should turn on the amp. Have you checked to make sure the socket is definitely a switched live and not permanent?
If you don't have any luck you can get another RCA to speaker wire adapter that will have a blue remote line on it, you just need to tap into the pos and neg of the head unit wiring loom and connect to the yellow and black on the RCA adapter which will then provide the remote line.
If you need any more help let me know.
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Thanks for getting back to me so quickly mate. I'll definitely put the negative on a seat bolt or terminal if I can locate it instead then. I have tested the fuse for the cigarette lighter by plugging my phone charger cable into the UBS port that I have inserted into the cigarette lighter socket and that works as an ignition live should. I read somewhere that this fuse can also be a permanent live if you move the position of it downwards slightly so that it is just out of line with the other fuses on the row. My fuse is positioned in line and is only live when the ignition is on. I will get some bullet connectors because the connectors I've used aren't the best. If that fails then hopefully the line level converter with blue wire will do the trick. I know the sub/amp is OK as I was using it in the car I recently sold. Got a pro to fit that originally and thought I'd take it out carefully and have a go at the install myself this time. Thanks again! I'll be in touch no doubt
Sound advice Carlos. Switched to bullet connectors for the remote on and repositioned the earth to a bolt inside the the oval shaped panel that pops off between the passenger door and the glove box...and happy days! The sub has woken up. Cheers mate
Sound advice Carlos. Switched to bullet connectors for the remote on and repositioned the earth to a bolt inside the the oval shaped panel that pops off between the passenger door and the glove box...and happy days! The sub has woken up. Cheers mate
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