Mk1 Leon Cupra TDI Track Daily

MoToJoJo

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Next job was the battery tray. The bolt and clamp were welded together, able to lever the battery past it but not a great situation.

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So applied mole grips and impact driver, out came the bolt, unfortunately the nut was pretty much toast so some drilling and chiselling later, it was no longer a problem

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In it's place is a bolt held in with a nyloc nut, the clamp sits on top then a normal nut on top. Not the best fix, but it'll do for now.

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Cleaned up the tray and then fitted some rubber rivnuts to it, didn't take pictures but the reason was so I can choose which battery to run Standard:

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Or Odyssey race battery

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MoToJoJo

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Final job of the day was refitting the OEM airbox because the ITG is going on something else.

Now mine didn't have this bit fitted when I got it

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So I thought as I have a spare one, I'd put it on

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Not bad but didn't install the fittings because changing a bulb is hard enough without needing to pull a bit of plastic out the way.

Then the airbox itself which was a properly tight fit. Forgot how much of a pain in back end it was, but it's all sorted now

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Not sure what I'll do tomorrow but I do know the timing belt and water pump are on the list, which I'm not looking forward to
 

MoToJoJo

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Timing belt change and seems to be holding together. Silicone hoses fitted and leak free. Standard airbox is a bit of a pain to adjust so may end up with something aftermarket after all.

Running the Vibratechnics mounts there's a definite increase in NVH inside the car, not entirely sure it's made a difference to handling yet but that's for the track to decide.

EBC Bluestuff pads are bedding in nicely, still a way to go before I can lean on them but pedal feel is noticeably better.
 
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380bhpdaily

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Timing belt change and seems to be holding together. Silicone hoses fitted and leak free. Standard airbox is a bit of a pain to adjust so may end up with something aftermarket after all.

Running the Vibratechnics mounts there's a definite increase in NVH inside the car, not entirely sure it's made a difference to handling yet but that's for the track to decide.

EBC Bluestuff pads are bedding in nicely, still a way to go before I can lean on them but pedal feel is noticeably better.
This makes me feel bad for not doing a single thing to my leon since we last spoke. I’m still having a break from cars however definitely planning on building a new leon out of the 2 shells I have. This sort of post always motivates me to want to work on my car.
 
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MoToJoJo

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This makes me feel bad for not doing a single thing to my leon since we last spoke. I’m still having a break from cars however definitely planning on building a new leon out of the 2 shells I have. This sort of post always motivates me to want to work on my car.

I get the taking a break, sometimes it's hard to have the motivation to spanner on cars, especially when there's more than one. Looking forward to seeing your Leon on track again 👍
 
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MoToJoJo

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A little prep work for testing the brakes out and seeing if isolating the inlet is necessary

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MoToJoJo

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So, track day attended, testing done.

Results? Braking is pretty confidence inspiring, kept finding myself braking later and later. At the limit it tends to get a bit squirrely. As for temps

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Discs were uniform in their temperature, might be worth investing in a bit of ducting.

Calipers didn't even register so think they'll be fine as is.

Bedford Autodrome has hard braking zones but only got the pads smoking once.
 
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MoToJoJo

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Under the bonnet?

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Ok, that's quite toasty, looks like it might be worth thinking about heat management. On the way to the track it had already hit 60° so these things don't run terribly cool.

Race battery (Odyssey Extreme 925 or 920, I forget which) performed flawlessly, not quite confident enough to leave it in but it's definitely got the grunt to fire up a PD150 first try.
 
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MoToJoJo

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The back end, at the limit was a bit keen but that's probably down to the settings and the fact I was running road pressures.

Finally, when I'd remembered to turn off traction control I kept spinning up the nearside wheel accelerating out of slow left handers. Guess that means an LSD has to be on the shopping list.

All in all a positive result, heading in the right direction... even if I did scare a few birds
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(They were on the track, not me going hunting them)
 

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vwtrev

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Wow, nice job with the car upgrading!! my 1st track car was a mk4 Golf TDI 130 (remapped to 174 bhp) and lowered on some springs and had 312mm TT front brakes (similar to yours I think). Went round the track pretty well, and only sipped fuel (not like my Cupra R!).

If your looking to improve braking some Cupra R 4 pots will do you well or a bigger AP racing / K-sport setup (but then more unsprung weight). An LSD is amazing on track. Keep up the good work..
 
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MoToJoJo

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Wow, nice job with the car upgrading!! my 1st track car was a mk4 Golf TDI 130 (remapped to 174 bhp) and lowered on some springs and had 312mm TT front brakes (similar to yours I think). Went round the track pretty well, and only sipped fuel (not like my Cupra R!).

If your looking to improve braking some Cupra R 4 pots will do you well or a bigger AP racing / K-sport setup (but then more unsprung weight). An LSD is amazing on track. Keep up the good work..

Cheers 👍

Yeah, the chassis setup is pretty good, although a major revision is happening this year (hopefully including an LSD) so fingers crossed for even better handling. Determined to embarrass the occasional Porsche... through the twisty bits anyway 🤣

As for brakes, I was thinking of Porsche986 4 pots (lighter than the Cupra Rs) on the 312 discs but I'm undecided atm. Don't want to go up in wheel size really but I'll figure something out
 
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MoToJoJo

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So… one night I fell down the usual internet rabbit hole and one thing led to another and that led to eBay and a pattern wishbone for a Mk7 Golf was winging its way to me. No, I don’t own a Mk7 Golf and the pattern wishbone is destined for the bin (unless someone wants it then it’s yours).

Now while cheap knock off parts for cars I don’t have is often the way these things go (although sometimes it isn’t so cheap), there was no regret. In fact I was back on the Bay of E(vil) and some haggling and cash later I ended up with…

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These are the front upright and lower control arm from an Audi TT…. a Mk3 Audi TT…. RS.

Just going to sit here and drool over the automotive sexiness this is.

Just for reference, the RS runs (I think) a 370mm disc and (once again, I think) 6 pots.

Will it fit inside the 17s I currently run and would like to stick to?

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If it fits, it sits… very snuggly. Am I planning on running 370mm discs and 6 pots? That would be some severe overkill for how quick this car will be, especially as I don’t plan on running bigger than 225 tyres.
 
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MoToJoJo

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Ok, so the big question is, will it fit? And the answer is… kinda.

Got a spare subframe to see what the chances are

Front bush?

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Like a glove! And yes, it takes an M12 bolt.

Rear bush?

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Err… no. But, let’s see what it’d look like it I managed to get it to fit?

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Hmm…

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That’s not a deal breaker
 

MoToJoJo

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So let’s get a spare bush and do some measuring

Cast arm from Mk1 Audi TT/ Leon Cupra R

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And the Mk3 Audi tt?

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Ok, so it’s a little bit of the subframe and the bush stopping it

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Confirmed. Would I be really lucky and the bushes are the same diameter?

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Not that lucky… but you know what? It’s pretty damn close

And length of the whole thing? No point doing it if it doesn’t get close

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Which is within tolerance of the stock stuff. Ok, doesn’t make for a wider track but that’s ok.
 
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MoToJoJo

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Ok, the downsides. I’d need to replace the inner tie rod and rod end because

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Like throwing a sausage down a hallway. On the bright side, the inner tie rod to steering rack is the same M16x1.5 thread so it’ll mate up.

The big issue is that the Mk3 Audi runs a 55mm diameter strut whereas the Mk1 runs at 50mm. Not like I bought some expensive KWs… 🤦‍♂️ Not sure what to do about that, might see if I can get a sleeve made to make up the space, but that’s a problem for future me.

Subframe needs modifying at the back, I’ve already checked and there should be enough clearance to make that work (approx 60mm space which is more than enough).

Either the rear mounting for the LCA needs modifying or I need to install a sleeve for a castor adjustable Mk1 TT bush which should mean it lines up with the standard position.
 
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MoToJoJo

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So is it worth the hassle? Yeah, I think so.

The weight of the upright and LCA (inc bottom balljoint) is 10kg. Don’t know how much the Mk1 TT stuff weighed but I remember that the bare hub was noticeably heavier than the Mk3 hub shown. That means a significant saving unsprung mass (a good thing).

Next is the balljoint. As shown in this picture,

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it’s offset which means the setup is going to have large amounts of caster which means less reliance on static camber.

Wheel bearings can now be achieved without a press

And last but not least, it’s alloy! That means that rust is much less of an issue and should mean longer serviceable life for the parts.
 

MoToJoJo

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Mar 25, 2014
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Just remembered, didn’t mention about driveshafts. Do they fit?

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Sort of. Splines are perfect fit but are a bit short, say 10mm at most inside and then not long enough on the rest of it. Tried a Cupra R one and the same story, splines fit but the bolt hole sat inset so may try rebuilding my spare driveshafts with Audi TT ends… or see how much Audi TT ones are (guessing they’ll be “🤣 no” price)
 

MoToJoJo

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Mar 25, 2014
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Done more digging about and one of the downsides of this is the ABS may throw a wobbly as the Mk3 TT etc stuff uses hall effect sensors rather than inductive. This is a bridge to cross when I get to it.

Driveshafts...bolt pattern looks to be about right but I can't find reliable info on lengths 😫 Some things says they are similar (depending on model) some say not, it's very confusing. May have to take the gamble on eBay again
 
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