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Managing the effects of excessive heat in turbo charged engines

warren_cox

Back from the dead
The other day I was chatting to someone who had chosen to wrap the intake pipework of a CAI with a gold tape to reduce the heat absorption and ensure the air getting into the system was as cold as could be. Given the temperatures in modern petrol cars can generate under the bonnet this seemed to be a very wise choice of modification, so I decided to go away and investigate further.

For years there have been various products available for reducing underbonnet temperatures. Exhaust wraps, reflector blankets, firewall plates, high performance cooling system additives etc., and I wondered what else was available, and why these days no one seems to use this stuff to counter heatsoak. People spend small fortunes on twintercoolers or enhanced FMIC's, which although VERY worthy are actually on half of the story. The IC's only go some way to rectifying intake temps rather than resolving heat related issues at the root cause of the problem.

There is a site I've found, courtesy of a member on another forum, called: http://www.agriemach.com/

There are a range of products for wrapping exhausts, intake pipes, electrical protection, blankets etc...

Products that particularly caught my eye were:

1) Titanium exhaust wrap (link)

2) 4 cyl turbo insulating kit (link)

3) Pipe heat shield (link)

4) Reflect-a-gold pipe wrap tape (link)

5) Radiator relief cooling products (link)

It is widely accepted that heat not only robs engine power / efficiency, but excessive heat reduces the lifespan of underbonnet electrical and mechanical components. Whilst tolerances for this will be factored in to cars during the development phases of OEM testing, when the consumer decided to go for stage 1, 2, or 3 modifications there is a natural requirement to increase the capacity to cool things down.

What can I get for free?
There are some very basic 'for free' things you can do, which include careful driving during start up and warm down. Ragging your engine whilst cold (when the engine has not had time to circulate / thin the oil) is a major contributor to wear and damage. Less known is that by having a managed approach or 'cool down' regime, by running the car at much lower RPM for the last few minutes of your journey also helps tremendously. The oil can continue to run around the turbo as it cools meaning you get less coking of the oil in the turbo once it stops pumping (particularly if you car doesn't have a timed pump system). A high quality oil which is changed regularly will help to increase the life of your turbo. This heat up / cool down process will extend performance and longevity, but will not specifically reduce under bonnet temps.

Phenolic gaskets
Another product that seems to be recommended by serious enthusiasts, although it is something I would personally change unless the OEM product failed is a phenolic inlet manifold gasket. This heat insulated gasket stops the transfer of heat from the main block into the inlet manifold again reducing intake temps.

WMI
More recently we have seen the use in the UK of WMI (Water Methanol Injection systems), which inject a constant controlled flow of water/meths into the intercooler. These significantly increase the density of the intake air, and reduce the intake temps and the effects of detonation. Whilst a very useful mod, the only problem I see with this is that you have a supply side issue where you are having to constantly top up / purchase methanol. Whilst I see the benefit completely for track days or performance runs, unless you have a very large reserve tank it could become a burden over time for high mile daily drivers.

NOS
N20, or Nitrous Oxide causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. Nitrous oxide is sometimes injected into (or prior to) the intake manifold, whereas other systems directly inject right before the cylinder (direct port injection) to increase power. Personally, again as you are carrying tanks (which need refilling), it's not a route I'd go down (particularly as I run cars which are within a warrantable window). Street racers and Fast & Furious types will go giddy for it, but although its become a more progressive technology in recent years its still a bit of a one pop shot for my liking.

Cold Air Intakes
Various companies offer CAI's, and with the eagerly awaited Forge Twintake we will shortly be seeing another evolution of this product genre come to market. Getting a pure cold air intake feed under the bonnet is not easy, as the CAI itself will attract heat from the high underbonnet temps. If you run an open cone system with shrouding you will inevitably get some engine heat filtering back into the system. Getting good cold air fed to the filter from optimized vantage points (front fog vents), inner wing arches etc. can be useful (use good quality flexi hose - heat insulated), but beware of potential water ingress. Always recommended as the OEM systems are often restrictive, particularly now engine covers are used to house the air filter. As VAG cars don't have bonnet venting as standard you are always fighting the tide!

Lower temperature heat range spark plugs
Many tuners recommend running a spark plug which is one heat range below the OEM one when your car is heavily modified. I must admit I am not entirely sure what the outright benefit of this is, and can only assume that the detonation process with the richer fuel / air intake benefits from the lower spark plug temp range.

I'm often surprised to see how much money is thrown into modification, without a balanced view point to tether the control factors relating to heat issues. Whilst it's great to come on a forum and say 'I've got a Milltek', or 'I'm running stage 2 spec', it's not so sexy to come on and say you are looking to spend some cash on cooling based on the increased boost pressures you're now running. Cooling per-say doesn't come with much of a label beyond a Forge FMIC, so carries very little kudos.

Lately you see people who's rolling road figures are some way below what they had hoped for, and I believe in some cases it is because all the effort is thrown at performance modifications rather than preventative control mods.

For those who have had the tenacity and bravery to stick with this 'war and peace' thread (and I apologize for the length of it now), I'd be really interested to hear your thoughts, experiences, and opinions on this subject. It's certainly a space which I believe is a quite neglected area of modification practice in the 'general public' sector of modifications.
 
Last edited:

RobsCupra

Active Member
Oct 21, 2008
336
1
Wrexham
Great post Warren!

You raised an issue which lately I've been giving a lot of thought. I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to modifications and what needs to happen and why it needs to happen.

Is there any useful info about what is an optimal air temp for an engine? Or is that not a relevant question withe answer being "as low as is possible"?
 

warren_cox

Back from the dead
Great post Warren!

You raised an issue which lately I've been giving a lot of thought. I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to modifications and what needs to happen and why it needs to happen.

Is there any useful info about what is an optimal air temp for an engine? Or is that not a relevant question withe answer being "as low as is possible"?

From what I am led to believe, the lower the under bonnet temps the better.

Many moons ago I had a look into this, and there were mixed opinions about bagging up the turbo as it doesn't allow it to cool off. I guess its a balance between getting life out of the OEM turbo, whilst extending performance / other components as long as you can.

As the exhaust DP / turbo are behind the block n the Leon / A3 if doesn't get clear access to a flow of cold air, so will naturally heat up quite a bit. There is the issue of keeping the inlet temps down, but also about the under bonnet temps as if you run open cone filters you want as much cool air as you can get going into the system. I don't really want to run WMI on an 'in warranty' (in the loosest terms) car, as it's too visible and is a 'finite' fix under some conditions.

I need to do some more research on this to understand the cost benefits and things like how much more BHP can be sustained per degree dropped for under bonnet temps or inlet temps. I can then set a budget and work with it.
 

RobsCupra

Active Member
Oct 21, 2008
336
1
Wrexham
WMI frightens me a little as in my head its a big mod for very highly modded cars and I don't think that I could go to those sorts of lenghts. I must admit though thats just fear of the unknown on my part.
 

RobH

Active Member
Nov 29, 2008
1,547
4
West Yorkshire
Im currently waiting for the twintake to come out and will deffinatley be wrapping it in that gold tape and its good to see someone going to the effort of researching all this info.

with regards to the radiator products how long would you expect them to last before in need of a top up.
 

warren_cox

Back from the dead
Im currently waiting for the twintake to come out and will deffinatley be wrapping it in that gold tape and its good to see someone going to the effort of researching all this info.

with regards to the radiator products how long would you expect them to last before in need of a top up.

Rad products I would have thought should last the length of the period they sit in your system (between changes). Whilst I can image their capability will decrease a little over time, I would have hoped they would not need periodic recharges.
 

luke07cupra

Wind the boost up...
Apr 13, 2009
217
0
Leeds
A proper fed CAI guarded from heat will produce more low down torque as cold air is instantly available where as the OEM will get heatsoak. However the turbo will ceate lots of heat after being on boost so the benefits of under bonnet heat protection will then be diminished - unless its an open cone of course!
 
You can do what the Jap boys do and fit a few washers to the rear of the bonnet. This lifts the rear and as air passes over the bonnet it's meant to suck the air from the engine bay.

dsc00558rt2.jpg


A lot of them have done this specifically for the "look" but I know a lot of high powered drag cars (all turbo) in Japan and many tuning houses used this technique. Although when I was planning to do it I did a lot of reading into the idea and some people had done home-experiments with thermometers etc and had found in some cases that the under-bonnet temp rose? So who knows?
 

OLDOILER

Full Member
Jul 28, 2005
1,292
1
Wiltshire, UK
The racing tdi's did have 3/4 ?air vents set back on the bonnet - I think this also helps the DPF which was still fitted to the racing TDI's and is a BIG heat generator !! would have loved to find a vented bonnet for sale!! I like the japs idea of jacking up the back end of the bonnet though!
 

TubbyTwo

Taking a break from JDM..
Jan 27, 2010
957
0
Ipswich, Suffolk
You can do what the Jap boys do and fit a few washers to the rear of the bonnet. This lifts the rear and as air passes over the bonnet it's meant to suck the air from the engine bay.

dsc00558rt2.jpg


A lot of them have done this specifically for the "look" but I know a lot of high powered drag cars (all turbo) in Japan and many tuning houses used this technique. Although when I was planning to do it I did a lot of reading into the idea and some people had done home-experiments with thermometers etc and had found in some cases that the under-bonnet temp rose? So who knows?

seen this before as well, i would think that to pull the hot air out of the engine bay your going to need some sort of low pressure area over where the rear of the bonnet is raised.

under the car is how usually its done from the factory, sucks the air out.
 
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