Leon st 1.2 bad turbo acuator?

[David_Sgv]

Hi everyone
Im driving Leon st mk3 1.2 2016.
Epc+check engine light turned on yesterday and the car got in limp mode and accelerate baddly

I have scanned the fault code and got this codes:
P00AF
P003a
16434

I suspect its the turbo actuator seized or not moving freely as it should.

someone familiar with those codes and help out?

 

[GlekkeMatrak]

16434 is a lambda fault for an implausible or intermittent signal. Check the wiring of the sensor on the catalytic converter behind the turbo. Also, check any vacuum lines for leaks.

 

[David_Sgv]

Under the 16434 is the the p334p that indicates something is faulty in the turbo accuator

 

[Mr Pig]

The turbo actuator is worth greasing anyway. My son's stuck and I greased it up. Been fine for two years now.

 

[David_Sgv]

Do you mean to grease the actuator rode?

 

[Mr Pig]

Do you mean to grease the actuator rode?

Yes. There is a linkage at the solenoid end that can stick.

 

[David_Sgv]

Update:
Went to the dealerahip today and they confirmed its a bad turbo actuator(just by quick fault scan)
My only option is to order from them a new one at 850 us$ without labor

I found a new part from abroad at 265$ include shipping cost but handling&shipping time is about 30 days

Currently the car is fine but doesnt accelerate as use to
Would you say its bad for the engine to drive 2/3 times a week that way? Untill the part arrive?

 

[Mr Pig]

Update:
Went to the dealerahip today and they confirmed its a bad turbo actuator(just by quick fault scan)

Check it's not stuck. If the linkage jams you'll get a code but the unit does not need replaced. Just free off the linkage and apply some high-temp grease. It's a ten minute job.

This is a common issue that effects all VW/Seat cars with similar variable turbos. It's unlikely the unit is bad. It's possible but the linkage being stuck is more probable.

 

[David_Sgv]

Thanks for the reply
I already sprayed some wd40 and by hand managed to move the actuator rode from side to side
When its all the way open i noticed some steakyness

Idont have high temp grease

How should i detach the actuator rode lock ring? From underneath the vehicle?
It looks like i should dissamble the turbo and intake

 

[Mr Pig]

Thanks for the reply
I already sprayed some wd40 and by hand managed to move the actuator rode from side to side

WD40 is not a lubricant. It's a water dispersant, that's what 'wd' stands for. You need to buy some high-temperature anti-seize grease. It's not cheap but it's what you need. You don't have to take the linkage apart. Just working the grease in should be enough. The linkage is very hard to get to and I wouldn't take it apart unless it was absolutely necessary.

 

[David_Sgv]

Except loctite high temp grease(dont think i could find one in my country)

What kind of grease do you recommend? Graphite grease with high temp properties? What about copper grease?

Btw i really aprecciating your help

 

[Mr Pig]

Except loctite high temp grease(dont think i could find one in my country)

What kind of grease do you recommend? Graphite grease with high temp properties? What about copper grease?

Btw i really aprecciating your help

Loctite® LB 8150​

Pretty sure that's what I used. It was not cheap but it has not seized again in the three years since it seized the first time. I did not remove the linkage. I put a rubber glove on and worked it into the linkage with my fingers.

 

[David_Sgv]

Ok im blown away.

I almost gave up and wasted over 1100$ on parts and labor

Yesterday as a last chance i took a ceramic paste i had at home and lube the actuator, delted the fault code, waited the engine to get to working temp, and went to a drive.

The turbo worked fine and no epc/engine light came up

Mr pig im grateful you stand on your opinion and kept saying the the actuator doesnt need to be replaced.

Ive attached the ceramic paste i used, looks like its also high temp properties
what do you think about it?

Loctite 8105 is hard to get, i found something close-Permatex anti seize
do you think it will do a better job then the ceramic paste?

 

[Mr Pig]

Glad you got to the bottom of it. I'm no genius, I only know about this issue because I found other people on the internet who had figured it out. I'm the same as you. My son's car had this problem, I found the solution on the net and it worked.

As to the grease, I can't advise. Again, the grease I used was the one I found recommended on the net. Yes, it's expensive but the wrong one could cause more issues. It might not last or worse, get baked so hard the linkage is stuck solid. I used the Loctite stuff on my son's car maybe three years ago and it's still good plus the tube is big enough to last a lifetime.

It's just good to get these things fixed cheaply rather than paying idiot dealers a fortune for nothing.

 

[Walone]

Ok im blown away.

I almost gave up and wasted over 1100$ on parts and labor

Yesterday as a last chance i took a ceramic paste i had at home and lube the actuator, delted the fault code, waited the engine to get to working temp, and went to a drive.

The turbo worked fine and no epc/engine light came up

Mr pig im grateful you stand on your opinion and kept saying the the actuator doesnt need to be replaced.

Ive attached the ceramic paste i used, looks like its also high temp properties
what do you think about it?

Loctite 8105 is hard to get, i found something close-Permatex anti seize
do you think it will do a better job then the ceramic paste?

In my opinion the ceramic paste you used should be fine, looking at the specification of the Loctite 8105 it has a lower temperature rating than the grease you used.