Leon FR 1.4 2014 stutters at 4k rpm
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You say two-cylinder more is activating, how do you know? Is the tell-tale light on the dash activating under acceleration? Shouldn't be. It should only activate when the engine is under very low load. As soon as you ask for power it should switch back to four cylinders and you shouldn't feel the transition at all.
I don't know the ins and outs of the system but it's very finely tuned. You need special kit to replace the timing belt and typically only dealers and VAG specialists have it. If an independent garage changed the timing belt assuming it's just like any other car it's possible they didn't get it right and the system is not working correctly. Check the service record. If Joe Blogs changed that belt I think I'd be taking the car to a dealer or VAG specialist to have the ACT system checked.
I would suggest faulty injectors too but I can't see that putting the ACT light on.
I don't know the ins and outs of the system but it's very finely tuned. You need special kit to replace the timing belt and typically only dealers and VAG specialists have it. If an independent garage changed the timing belt assuming it's just like any other car it's possible they didn't get it right and the system is not working correctly. Check the service record. If Joe Blogs changed that belt I think I'd be taking the car to a dealer or VAG specialist to have the ACT system checked.
I would suggest faulty injectors too but I can't see that putting the ACT light on.
Yeah the light is activating but it's not all the time which is confusing me I've also just realised I can't hear the diverter valve opening I had a look at the actuator rod there's a bit of play in it and when I rev the car and let off it's not opening but I'm also not getting surge back through the turbo. And yes the timing belt was done but that was at 100k Kms. I bought the car from a garage so I do have warranty on it but not for long I will be going back to him with it. Should I go to a seat dealer first and ask them to have a quick look?
The ACT light does come on and off. It just depends when. It should only come on under very light load. As soon as you press the accelerator it should go out.
The actuator rod on the turbo does have play on it, it's supposed to be like that. They can stick. My son's stuck. Worked some high-temp grease into it and it's been fine since. I don't know if that could cause your symptoms but worth checking.
From my experience, dealers are not very good at fault finding. Anything much outside of routine maintenance and they're stumped. I'd be inclined to trust an independent VAG specialist more.
You definitely aren't alone on this one.i replaced the actuator and greased the mechanism with high temp grease. Sadly it made no difference.
I'm now ruminating carbon build up being the cause.
I don't suppose you have found any more info in the last month or so?
I'm now ruminating carbon build up being the cause.
1.4TSI hesitation at 4kRPM WOT
2014 plate, manual 1.4TSI 150ps, about 85K on the clock, FSH. It doesn't get driven hard much given local traffic, but occasionally when I put my foot down it pulls well and smooth to 4k hesitates a little then carries on. Does this regardless of driving mode, but only once on a given run, so...
www.seatcupra.net
I don't suppose you have found any more info in the last month or so?
From what I've read intake fouling can be an issue from as low as 60K onward. My car's over 80K and still running perfectly and getting good MPG but expect I could encounter this any time now. What's your millage BlackFR? I don't know the symptoms of intake fouling but it wouldn't surprise me if this is one of them.
The best cleaning method seems to be walnut blasting. It costs around £400 and works well. There are people who offer to spray solvent into the intake but it's ineffective. The deposits are too hard and have to be physically removed either by walnut blasting or scraping them off by hand.
It's not something to ignore as it's possible that when it gets bad enough the valves can stick open and very bad things happen.
As an aside, I've seen using premium fuel mentioned multiple times as a way of delaying intake fouling but that make zero sense. Direct injection puts petrol straight into the cylinder, does not wash over the intake valves so cannot help to clean them. If you've got fuel in the intake of a direct injection car something is very wrong! ;0)
The best cleaning method seems to be walnut blasting. It costs around £400 and works well. There are people who offer to spray solvent into the intake but it's ineffective. The deposits are too hard and have to be physically removed either by walnut blasting or scraping them off by hand.
It's not something to ignore as it's possible that when it gets bad enough the valves can stick open and very bad things happen.
As an aside, I've seen using premium fuel mentioned multiple times as a way of delaying intake fouling but that make zero sense. Direct injection puts petrol straight into the cylinder, does not wash over the intake valves so cannot help to clean them. If you've got fuel in the intake of a direct injection car something is very wrong! ;0)
I'm on about 84k at the moment, i popped some pictures of the valves on mine in the thread I linked above. They are pretty gummed up!
I phoned around a few local places and they all want £1k+ for walnut blasting unfortunately, just not worth it at that price.
Cable ties in a drill to agitate the carbon and some solvent seems to be a recommended home brew fix up.
I was just hoping someone else with the problem had actually managed to get a fix.
I phoned around a few local places and they all want £1k+ for walnut blasting unfortunately, just not worth it at that price.
Cable ties in a drill to agitate the carbon and some solvent seems to be a recommended home brew fix up.
I was just hoping someone else with the problem had actually managed to get a fix.
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