LC 180 cuts out

[mirroreyes]

Oh man more problems

The latest problem seems to be mainly when its cold and is intermittent, the idle is lumpy, when I depress the clutch, when coming to a stop the revs drop to nearly zero, or zero and cut out. It sometimes gradually gets better as it warms up, but seems to be happening more and more of late.

I've been meaning to get rid of this piece of crap (I used to love this car) for two years now but every time I come to do it, something else goes wrong (clutch last time)

I've read a few threads regarding this issue (most are for other models with different engines and there is some conflicting information) I really need help as this car is driving me mad and has cost me a fortune.

Problems to date:

leaking doors (Took the dealer 7 attempts to resolve)
loose anti roll bar mountings.
Clunky gear-change (Shift cables tightened)
2nd & 3rd Gear sycros crunching (Recon box and oil change)
Clutch collapsed and snapped the master cylinder (New clutch & cyl)
Rust through paint.
Squeaky rear seats.
Flasher unit failed.
Front headlight stopped working (Not the bulb)
Engine rattle when cold starting (Still unresolved)
Metal clanging sound when going over bumps (Still unresolved)
Noisy suspension (Sounds like worn bushes)
The radio had a spat then decided to work as normal.

 

[rs20]

Re: clanging and rattling.
Mine made annoying clanging and squeeking noises for a while. There is a mild steel bracket bang in the centre section of the exhaust which rusts away leaving the exhaust to bang the metal mounts on either side. Cost me a tenner to have the exhaust welded back to the bracket = no more clanging.
My engine rattles sometimes on start up. Mine is caused by the carbon ram pipe vibrating against the metal work,. If you have a standard air box it might need tighteneing up.

 

[mirroreyes]

Clanging and rattles

Cheers

I'll have a look at that when I do the service and change the front pads and disc's.

You could be right it does sound like the exhaust, but last time I looked and shook the exhaust it seemed pretty solid. I service it myself and keep on top of the repairs, but some of these rattles are very hard to locate and of course only do it when your not looking for them, as soon as its on the jack the rattles miraculously disappear grrrrrrrrrrrr.

 

[Saul]

how many miles has it got on it?

could be a throttle body problem as to why it keeps cutting out?

martyn had a similar problem on his ibiza

 

[mirroreyes]

Throttle Body

Hi Saul

It's just done 60,000

I take it, your talkin about Ibiza 1.8T, not old school 2.0 GTI.

Checked martyn out on the members list, he's posted over a thousand times, to many to search any chance of a link to the thread or further details.

Cheers

 

[CupraUK]

Engine rattle on start up is pretty normal, just a lack of oil up top

I had the same weld done on the exhaust bracket.

 

[Saul]

just been talking to marts, his problem is not connected to yours sorry

you got vag-com?

 

[Martyn]

Have you had the MAF checked out bud? I'd get that checked/replaced, clean the throttle body and get it aligned.

Do you have any mods? Like a Turbo Inlet Pipe or anything?

Cheers,

Martyn

 

[dazzlin75]

Hi

Had exactly the same thing with my Leon Cupra re: lumpy idle and revs dropping to zero when pressing the clutch. Half a dozen visits to a stealer (Seat in Yeadon, Leeds...) later and they still didn't have a clue what the problem was.

Took it to Awesome, and it turns out that simply giving the throttle body a good clean with a rag sorted it 100%.

 

[mirroreyes]

I,ll get me tools out and have a go, probably next weekend, I've got the front disc's and pads, full service and Powerflex dog bone bush on the to do list. Thanks for the tip.

 

[mlpinto]

Oh man more problems

The latest problem seems to be mainly when its cold and is intermittent, the idle is lumpy, when I depress the clutch, when coming to a stop the revs drop to nearly zero, or zero and cut out. It sometimes gradually gets better as it warms up, but seems to be happening more and more of late.

Hi

Please let me know if you get a resolution to this as I have exactly the same problem. I also have my ECU light come on and then go off a few days / weeks later...

Two trips to my local dealer resulted in:

1. Diagnosis of a dump valve issue - valve changed. Problem came back after a few days - ECU light back on.

2. Diagnosis showed faulty Air Mass Meter - had this changed. Problem came back after a few days with the ECU light back on.

The latest diagnosis showed a clutch switch fault, but I'm reluctant to spend any more money as I feel this isn't going to get solved.

The car does seem much happier now the weather has warmed up a bit, but still idles roughly...

Good luck!!

 

[mirroreyes]

Resolution

Hi mlpinto

I will let you know when this is sorted, however it's not going to be for another week at least, as I'm to busy with other things at the moment.

The only difference between your problem and mine is that the ECU light on my dash never comes on.

The following issues have been associated with this problem:

1) Dirty and/or misaligned throttle body.
2) Faulty MAF.
3) Faulty coil pack.
4) Clogged fuel filter.
5) Faulty ECU.

Hope you get yours sorted, I know how annoying things like this can be and to compound it, most mechanics seem to use a process of elimination, replacing parts left right and center until its resolved and your destitute!

 

[traumapat]

ive just sorted my temp sensor but the faulty one has recked my lambda sensor too. just saying if youve had issues check for any knock on effect.

my lc has just turned 70k with no problems so im gutted for you.


when i got my miltek fitted at jabba they advised me to head to the dealers as a bracket had rusted and needed replacing... possibly what others have had welded? bracket was half way along the pipe, towards the end of the straight section iirc i got the odd bang from that

if yours is an aftermarket zorst check the rear section is pushed fully into the middle section otherwise it makes a knocking sound as it expands when warmed up. bangs against the crossmember?

hope things improve

 

[traumapat]

try and get hold of vagcom or somone with it.

 

[-DT-]

Oh man more problems

The latest problem seems to be mainly when its cold and is intermittent, the idle is lumpy, when I depress the clutch, when coming to a stop the revs drop to nearly zero, or zero and cut out. It sometimes gradually gets better as it warms up, but seems to be happening more and more of late.

I've been meaning to get rid of this piece of crap (I used to love this car) for two years now but every time I come to do it, something else goes wrong (clutch last time)

I've read a few threads regarding this issue (most are for other models with different engines and there is some conflicting information) I really need help as this car is driving me mad and has cost me a fortune.

Problems to date:

leaking doors (Took the dealer 7 attempts to resolve)
loose anti roll bar mountings.
Clunky gear-change (Shift cables tightened)
2nd & 3rd Gear sycros crunching (Recon box and oil change)
Clutch collapsed and snapped the master cylinder (New clutch & cyl)
Rust through paint.
Squeaky rear seats.
Flasher unit failed.
Front headlight stopped working (Not the bulb)
Engine rattle when cold starting (Still unresolved)
Metal clanging sound when going over bumps (Still unresolved)
Noisy suspension (Sounds like worn bushes)
The radio had a spat then decided to work as normal.

Needs a throttle body clean matey...

 

[Fidge]

Yeah I'd go with the trottle body cleaning! Take pipe off, undoe for bolts on throttle body and spray some carb cleaner in around the throttle flap, let the dirt drain off and then put back on! Re-align TB by leaving drivers door open and switching on ignition (you sould here the TB whining as it auto aligns)

 

[mirroreyes]

Hi Fidge

So you realign it by leaving the drivers door open and switching the ignition to the first position, as simple as that?

 

[Fidge]

Hi Fidge

So you realign it by leaving the drivers door open and switching the ignition to the first position, as simple as that?

Yeah switch the igniton on so you get lights on dash with door open and you will hear the TB re-aligning!

Alternatively you can disconnect then reconnect battery but if you do this you'll have to recode ya stereo!

 

[mirroreyes]

Cheers fella.

I'll try that, I'm not disconnecting the battery though, last time I did that the Radio kept going in to safe mode for about two weeks before it settled down and worked as normal.

 

[drvince]

Well ,

What was it ????

Some feedback would be nice for others having the same problem