Yeah, but I'm guessing yours is already "shiny", right?
Mine just doesn't have that shine!
Do you reckon it just needs a good good wash?
Mine just doesn't have that shine!
Do you reckon it just needs a good good wash?
Lambro's Black 1.2 MK4 5DR Ibiza...:D
- Thread starter Lambro6
- Start date
Well to be honest, the Glacier Blue paint is a strange paintjob. It looks shiny even when it's filthy as hell in different light settings. Perhaps your car needs a good detailing. You might have to get it professionally detailed? If you do go down that route, I should imagine that keeping it shiny after that would be a simple job.
So your complaining the black paint has gone dull, a bit like when red cars go pinky?
One way to sort it, a good polish.
You can do it by hand or with a DA. I'd say one of the best polishes to use by hand would be Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Or, you can buy a DA (they can cost as little as £30 these days) and get some polishing compound (Menzerna stock a lot of decent compound polishes).
Before applying, obviously you need to ensure the car is clean.
Need to relegate the fairy liquid to the kitchen as well mate, if you ever wax your car and then wash with fairy liquid you'll pull it all off and undo all your hard work!
One way to sort it, a good polish.
You can do it by hand or with a DA. I'd say one of the best polishes to use by hand would be Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Or, you can buy a DA (they can cost as little as £30 these days) and get some polishing compound (Menzerna stock a lot of decent compound polishes).
Before applying, obviously you need to ensure the car is clean.
Need to relegate the fairy liquid to the kitchen as well mate, if you ever wax your car and then wash with fairy liquid you'll pull it all off and undo all your hard work!
What you need mate is called a paint correction detail.
You don't have to do that though.
To get your car looking in good nick you need to start being anal with car cleaning.
Have you ever heard or the 2 bucket method?
Stay away from yellow sponges, use wash mitts, they don't hold dirt and are less abrasive.
Don't use leathers to dry your car, they're hold dirt like you wouldn't believe. Which means everytime you dry the car, you're rubbing the grit and dirt which causes very fine scratches in the lacquer.
To get rid of those small scratches or 'swirl marks' (called that because as you look at them they are in a swirling pattern).
To get rid you have 2 options. Either get some cutting compounds that take off very fine layers of the lacquer to remove the scratches.
Or get some decent detailing products, eg Autoglym super resin polish (SRP), Autoglym Intensive Tar remover (ITR) and autoglym extra gloss protection (EGP).
The polish is an extremely light cutting compound and also has fillers in to fill in the fine scratches, and remove some.
If I were you then I would just go for a good polish with some elbow grease.
The procedure:
- Wash the car using the 2 bucket method using AutoGlym bodywork shampoo conditioner (in my experience cheap triplewax products take off wax very rapidly)
- Go over the car with AG ITR which will take off pain contaminants and leave the paint work like glass.
- wash and dry the car again.
- go over the paintwork with the polish applying with a clean microfibre in circular motions.
- buff off the polish once its gone a bit cloudy with another clean microfibre.
- then do the same with AG EGP.
- then again with a good wax.
You can repeat the polish several times to get rid of the swirls then do the EGP and wax it.
I detailed my car last week so I have some information on my RR.
There is also tonnes of information on www.detailingworld.com.
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You don't have to do that though.
To get your car looking in good nick you need to start being anal with car cleaning.
Have you ever heard or the 2 bucket method?
Stay away from yellow sponges, use wash mitts, they don't hold dirt and are less abrasive.
Don't use leathers to dry your car, they're hold dirt like you wouldn't believe. Which means everytime you dry the car, you're rubbing the grit and dirt which causes very fine scratches in the lacquer.
To get rid of those small scratches or 'swirl marks' (called that because as you look at them they are in a swirling pattern).
To get rid you have 2 options. Either get some cutting compounds that take off very fine layers of the lacquer to remove the scratches.
Or get some decent detailing products, eg Autoglym super resin polish (SRP), Autoglym Intensive Tar remover (ITR) and autoglym extra gloss protection (EGP).
The polish is an extremely light cutting compound and also has fillers in to fill in the fine scratches, and remove some.
If I were you then I would just go for a good polish with some elbow grease.
The procedure:
- Wash the car using the 2 bucket method using AutoGlym bodywork shampoo conditioner (in my experience cheap triplewax products take off wax very rapidly)
- Go over the car with AG ITR which will take off pain contaminants and leave the paint work like glass.
- wash and dry the car again.
- go over the paintwork with the polish applying with a clean microfibre in circular motions.
- buff off the polish once its gone a bit cloudy with another clean microfibre.
- then do the same with AG EGP.
- then again with a good wax.
You can repeat the polish several times to get rid of the swirls then do the EGP and wax it.
I detailed my car last week so I have some information on my RR.
There is also tonnes of information on www.detailingworld.com.
Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
Thanks guys, super helpful!
I'll have a look into that method you posted Jordan, sounds very thorough.
Also, does it all have to be done at once?
I'll have a look into that method you posted Jordan, sounds very thorough.
Also, does it all have to be done at once?
I'd advise doing it all at once. If you just clean it then polish it then you're polishing in the tar and contaminants into the paint.
If you take all the contaminants off the paint with AG ITR then your paint has no protection and makes it more prone to damage from contaminants.
If I were you, I'd try do it all at once. If you drive it after you've decontaminated the paint then you should clean the paint again therefore making what you previously did a bit pointless.
Black cars are the best cars once detailed, they just look stunning!
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If you take all the contaminants off the paint with AG ITR then your paint has no protection and makes it more prone to damage from contaminants.
If I were you, I'd try do it all at once. If you drive it after you've decontaminated the paint then you should clean the paint again therefore making what you previously did a bit pointless.
Black cars are the best cars once detailed, they just look stunning!
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For the initial correction, you want to wash it first, then polish it immediately. But you don't need to start polishing it everytime you wash, just every so often.
My wash "routine" is as follows:
- Rinse excess dirt off the paintwork
- Wash using a Meguiars microfibre wash mitt, and the 2 bucket method. 1 "wash" bucket with Autoglym bodywork shampoo, the other "rinse" bucket with plain water. Each time you use the wash mitt, dunk it in the rinse bucket before putting it in the "wash" bucket, this way you're not getting dirt mixed in with the shampoo.
- Rinse again
- Dry with microfibre drying towels.
Then just detail it every so often, usually once or twice a year I go bananas and clay it, polish it, seal it and then wax it. But the car needs to be clean first.
My wash "routine" is as follows:
- Rinse excess dirt off the paintwork
- Wash using a Meguiars microfibre wash mitt, and the 2 bucket method. 1 "wash" bucket with Autoglym bodywork shampoo, the other "rinse" bucket with plain water. Each time you use the wash mitt, dunk it in the rinse bucket before putting it in the "wash" bucket, this way you're not getting dirt mixed in with the shampoo.
- Rinse again
- Dry with microfibre drying towels.
Then just detail it every so often, usually once or twice a year I go bananas and clay it, polish it, seal it and then wax it. But the car needs to be clean first.
Okay, a couple more questions for you guys!
My last exam is on Tuesday, so I'll hopefully be able to start working on the car next weekend, if everything arrives!
Thanks guys.
- Does it matter if I buy a cheap washing mitt, as opposed to a Meguiars lambswool washing mitt?
- Jordan, when should I use the SRP during your procedure?
My last exam is on Tuesday, so I'll hopefully be able to start working on the car next weekend, if everything arrives!
Thanks guys.
Id Go For A Meguiars Microfibre Rather Than The Lambswool One
http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/245/Super-Thick-Microfibre-Wash-Mitt/
http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/245/Super-Thick-Microfibre-Wash-Mitt/
Thank Alex.
And Jordan, ignore my 2nd question, apparently, I can't read the word polish, and skipped over it!
And Jordan, ignore my 2nd question, apparently, I can't read the word polish, and skipped over it!
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Hahaha, sorry only just seen it anyway! You want it on after you've decontaminated the paint with a clay bar or with AG tar remover. Apply the polish thinly, and give it a couple of coats of polish then seal it (1 coat) then wax it (at least 2 coats)
So it's:
Wash, Dry, ITR, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Seal, Buff, Wash, Dry, EGP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Wax, Buff?
Should I wash and dry between coats of polish?
Should I wash and dry between polish & seal?
What seal would you recommend?
What wax can you recommend?
And should I clay it, or ITR it?
Sorry for the bombardment of questions, just want to make sure I don't make any silly mistakes!
Wash, Dry, ITR, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Seal, Buff, Wash, Dry, EGP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Wax, Buff?
Should I wash and dry between coats of polish?
Should I wash and dry between polish & seal?
What seal would you recommend?
What wax can you recommend?
And should I clay it, or ITR it?
Sorry for the bombardment of questions, just want to make sure I don't make any silly mistakes!
Last edited:
So it's:
Wash, Dry, ITR, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, SRP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Seal, Buff, Wash, Dry, EGP, Buff, Wash, Dry, Wax, Buff?
Should I wash and dry between coats of polish?
Should I wash and dry between polish & seal?
What seal would you recommend?
What wax can you recommend?
And should I clay it, or ITR it?
Sorry for the bombardment of questions, just want to make sure I don't make any silly mistakes!
No problem at all!
You dont need to wash it after polishing it.
So it should be
Wash, dry, ITR, wash, dry, SRP, buff, (x2 if you want), Seal, buff (can wipe with a clean MF too, doesn't really need to buff it in but using a machine is quicker) Wax, buff, (x2 at least)
No you dont need to wash and dry between polish or between any other procedure, its only to wash off any excess ITR.
I use Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, really good stuff, easy to apply, easy to buff off, last a long time too.
You can clay it if you want, i find Clay doesnt take as long to clean the paint, so less laborious.
But you can only use a bar for one car, and if you drop it then you have to bin it (picks up grit which you would then rub into the paint)
Plus clay is more expensive.
It's entirely up to you, i'd start off with ITR. Then maybe next you do it then you can give clay a go.
Oh right, so EGP is a 'sealant'?
What wax do you use?
Thanks again, I think that's about it for questions!
What wax do you use?
Thanks again, I think that's about it for questions!
Oh right, so EGP is a 'sealant'?
What wax do you use?
Thanks again, I think that's about it for questions!
I use FK1000P, Its a paste wax which is very hard wearing, easy to apply and easy to buff off.
Its about £18 for 500g i think, so not that expensive in relation to some other waxes.
Make sure you apply the wax in thin layers in a circular motion. Leave it for 30 mins and then go out and buff it off.
If you layer it on too thick then its a bitch to get off!
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Thanks mate, really appreciate it.
It all comes to a grand total of £62, which isn't to bad, assuming they last for a while!
It all comes to a grand total of £62, which isn't to bad, assuming they last for a while!
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Yeah that's good! FK1000p will last ages, i've done my car twice with mine (2 coats each time) and i've used less the 20% of the tin.
Mini-update, bigger one coming on the weekend.
So far, AG ITR & EGP has arrived, along with 1 out of 2 Meguiars Mitts.
I put the SMD bulb in the car, unbelievably good!
And today, it was man V flip key half.
Step 1: Heat it up till it burns, and pry apart.
Step 2: Put it in a bath of kettle hot soap
Step 3: Fill it with acetone, and dip it in a bath of acetone
Step 4: Buy another case because Step 1, 2 & 3 are useless.
So far, AG ITR & EGP has arrived, along with 1 out of 2 Meguiars Mitts.
I put the SMD bulb in the car, unbelievably good!
And today, it was man V flip key half.
Step 1: Heat it up till it burns, and pry apart.
Step 2: Put it in a bath of kettle hot soap
Step 3: Fill it with acetone, and dip it in a bath of acetone
Step 4: Buy another case because Step 1, 2 & 3 are useless.
Just realised how shocking the iPhone cam is. I definitely need a DSLR.
Interior bulb change:
Original bulb:
Terrible 8-LED bulb:
Brilliant 16-SMD bulb:
Boot bulb change:
Original bulb:
Brilliant 16-SMD bulb:
[Post=3604909]Back to Contents[/Post]
Interior bulb change:
Original bulb:
Terrible 8-LED bulb:
Brilliant 16-SMD bulb:
Boot bulb change:
Original bulb:
Brilliant 16-SMD bulb:
[Post=3604909]Back to Contents[/Post]
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