is this regarded as lip mode?

[wilksy]

my first response would be to go back to where yo had it revo'd as that seems to be causing your problem.my problem seems to be pipe or sensor related and i just haven't been able to strip the car yet to inspect all the pipe work!
but then again i dont have vag-com so haven't done a diagnosics check just yet either.the only thing i have done is change the n75 which cured it momenterally but that was to a j which may not have helped

 

[corradophil]

It was done at Big Boys toys, they had a look and a drive and concluded all was well, however at the time my main issue was poor performance. I have spoken with Revo too, who were helpful, but I need to contact them again for more suggestions.

The problem is, is that Revo and Big Boys Toys beleive it is a problem highlighted by the remap, not with the remap, so understandably to spend further time on it, they will want paying, which I cannot afford to do at the moment. Therefore it is down to me to sort it.

Both Revo and BBT recommend using the original N75F by the way.

I've checked 90% of the pipework and all appears to be well. To me it seems that something is working out of its design range with the current set up and it cannot run properly.

 

[wilksy]

i may put the f back on and see what happens doubt it will change anything!
i thought there were more people with the low rev boost drop issue!?
i cant really think of anything else that can be causing our problem!
has anyone tried the wastgate or how about the DV [recirc valve]?

 

[corradophil]

I've tried a different DV, no improvement.

I now have a fault code and engine management warning light on the dash. Have a look at my thread http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=128144

The "Add" part means the problem is a idle/light throttle, which may mean it is very much related to the low rev hesitation.

wilksy, for the time it takes to swap them, it has got to be worth trying the N75f for a week or two.

 

[wilksy]

gonna try and get the f valve back today sometime and update accordingly!
read or post the only pipes iv'e heard that are common or prone to perish from the inside is the IC to TB pipe at the front of the engine bay.also the tip is obviously prone to folding or something underload which can cause boost problems.

 

[wilksy]

well changed the valve and unplugged every thing induction related to see if it helped. to begi with i only changed back to the f and didnt change anything.so i thought i would unplug everything to reset it all and it seemed to work,
now all i got is the managment light constantly lite

 

[corradophil]

I made a breakthrough with mine today. I found a rubber hose connected to the manifold which had a big split in it. The reason I checked it out was because I noticed the area was a little oily. The hose runs next to a plastic valve under the inlet manifold. To get to it I had to remove the N249, N112 and all the associated plumbing. I have some pictures which I'll upload over the next few days.

After I repaired the hose the light throttle hesitation appears to have gone now and power seems to be up too.

You can see the hose without removing anything by looking between the runners for cylinders 2 & 3 or 3 & 4.

 

[wilksy]

excellent mate ill have a look at mine when i get enough time to pull a few more bits apart. luckly i didnt **** up my car! the reason the light came on is i actually left one of the connections off, just pluggin it back didnt wipe it so i did the same as before but only the plug i left off the TB plug MAF plug and the
N75 plug. but i think i need to see if there are any faults with the car after doing this.

 

[chriswilks]

my cars been doing something similar since remap.when its cold its in limp mode then when it gets to temp it has full boost....hovever it does still hesitate at high revs and management light is on.
been to seat and had diagnosed sensors replaced and its still the same?some people recommend mapping the 2nd lambda sensor out.dont know where to start tho.

 

[corradophil]

Here are the photos, the 1st showing the damaged hose, the second showing where it is fitted (note it is not fitted in the photo), the third showing my repair using puncture repair kit and tie wraps. You could not see the damage until I removed the hose, as it was strapped to an adjacent plastic valve using a large rubber strap. This hose connects directly to the inlet manifold, so will cause vacuum and boost leaks.

Since the repair on Saturday, full power has returned, the hesitation has gone and the fuel consumption on the MFI is far better.

 

[wilksy]

how did you completly remove the plate which one of the plastic covers srew to and all the pipes connect to and run beneath?

 

[corradophil]

Wilksy,

1. Remove 2No. cap head screws which attach it to the inlet.
2. Remove 2No. nuts holding the black plastic ribbed ducting from the auxiliary air pump.
3. Disconnect all hose conntections, these are all in the same area at the right hand side when you look at it standing in front of the car. There is 1No. small hose which connects to the underside of the inlet, and 3No. which connect to other pipes leading to DV etc.
4. Disconnect N112 and N249 electrical connections, they are a bit of a pain but you can do it.
5. Unclip the plate from the dipstick.
6. Lift left hand side up again your left when standing at front of car looking at engine. Undo 1No. nut which holds plastic ribbed pipe.
7. The whole assembly should now come away with all hoses and both valves still attached. Whilst it is apart it is worth checking the condition of all the hoses on it.

I've done this several times now, and can do it in around 10 mins, so its not too much of a hard job to do.

 

[wilksy]

ok didnt take the plate off but had another look and the hose did have a snag.it peeled off a bit so i put a bit of tape round
it and seems to have done the trick. so i have been looking at websites to find anyone that do a silicone hose to replace this.

 

[longman]

Hi Phil/Wilksy

I have been reading this thread with interest as i have, as have many others, got the same, low rev, light throttle hesitation problem. I have tried MAF, N75, DV (Forge 007P) and there are no fault codes either.

I would be really interested to hear if this pipe being fixed cures the problem you have both had. I plan to have a look at mine at the weekend to make sure I have not got any split pipes under the plate. (thanks for pics and instructions Phil)

 

[corradophil]

Wilksy, let me know if you find someone who does a silicon hose to replace this. If its not too pricey I may be interested.

Longman, So far so good, since repairing it, better mpg, no hesitation and noticably better performance.

 

[longman]

Might even check tonight. If Wilksy said he could feel the pipe without removal, I will hopefully be able to check quite quickly.

I will be chuffed to bits if this is my problem too!!

Thanks again!

 

[corradophil]

Longman, fingers crossed for you. As my pipe was quite bad the surrounding area had an oily resedue, it was this that made me look further.

 

[longman]

Will keep you both posted!!

 

[wilksy]

right here are some pics of what i've got and done to my pipes
http://public.fotki.com/wilksy/leon-20-vt/s6000777.html

http://public.fotki.com/wilksy/leon-20-vt/s6000779.html

and is this the breather you werwe referring to that you've changed through
softness and residue?
http://public.fotki.com/wilksy/leon-20-vt/s6000778.html http://public.fotki.com/wilksy/leon-20-vt/s6000781.html
http://public.fotki.com/wilksy/leon-20-vt/s6000780.html

unfortunatly seems i can put the pics in so i've made them links

 

[wilksy]

also i have had no luck so far on the silicon pipe. all i see we can do is
custom run the pipe in this location or order a new one from seat/VW which
will be just the same when we want a better pipe!