Intermittent power loss.

[paulos44]

Hi all.....
what happened a couple of hours ago typifies the way my car has been behaving for the last few days.
Coming up behind a lorry on the M40 doing about 65 in 6th, i pulled out and floored the throttle and it felt as if i was in a standard 1.8. However,a couple of miles further on i tried the same again and the car flew past as it would normally do,having 215bhp and 230 torques.I could hear the turbo both times and the dumping of boost through the cone filter when i backed off both times, so i dont think its the turbo causing the up/down power delivery.
Just wondered if anyone had encountered a similar problem with their 1.8 20vt.....
BTW...all coil packs and plugs replaced 12 months ago.
Also, will this be suitable for reading fault codes on my 2004 Tolly does anyone know ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321781737221?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[chriswales6]

Most OBD2 readers would work with the Mk1 Leon (or MK2 Toledo). If you have access to a laptop a VAGCOM cable for a similar amount maybe a better bet. Since you can view and change a wider range of things.

Mind you saying that I bought a cable for £10 last year to activate my cruise control and haven’t used it since. It was a surprise to see no fault codes since I’ve been servicing the myself for last three years.

 

[paulos44]

I have a KKL VAG-COM 409.1 cable but i can't get it to work on Windows 10.....Worked fine on my old Windows 7 laptop......Keeps displaying Port OK...Interface not found.....

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[BadBoy03]

Our 1.8 20Vt has been a real pain with intermittent power. The turbo however is intermittent & despite many hook ups, vac pipes replaced, smoke test, we have yet to get it to stay in consistently. Originally it did over boost & threw up that code. Not sure what sorted it because the car has had lots done. It did have a pressure drop between turbo & throttle, but after vac pipes sorted, it didn't throw the code up after its road test. The turbo could do with a clean, just to see if that helps. Otherwise i wonder if it is software related as a restart of the engine brings the turbo to life again. It had a remap, but the previous owner had done most things on the cheap, & we're paying for it!

 

[chriswales6]

I have a KKL VAG-COM 409.1 cable but i can't get it to work on Windows 10.....Worked fine on my old Windows 7 laptop......Keeps displaying Port OK...Interface not found.....

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I'm glad that I ignored the Windows update nags awhile ago and stuck with Windows 7. A Google or youtube search may help to get the cable working again the Windows 10.

Haven't used an OBD2 scanner on my car but don't see any reason why that one wouldn't work. Personally I tend to buy that type of thing from Amazon now. There is a better change of seeing reviews and feedback from other buyers and if it doesn't work then the returns process is normally less of a ball ache

 

[paulos44]

Ok will have a butchers on Amazon.........The cheapest garage i could find.....An independent Seat one....Wants £50 for one scan.....

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[paulos44]

Think I'll whip the plugs out in the morning to see if they are all a nice light brown colour as a start....

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[Andrewwright]

Look on shpock "it's an app from playstore" also gumtree for vag-com people...Most want a tenner a scan and are pretty helpful guy's. Don't go to a garage when there are many helpful beer token taking people out there.
Just search and you will find, it's what i did.

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[RDS1972]

If it helps at all, I had temperature sensor issues with my Cupra and bought this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152204637863?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It pairs up easily and is reliable. Identifies the faults and clears them. You'll need to find an App for your phone or use the CD rom provided. There are some flakey OBD2 connectors, buyer beware!

 

[mty12345]

If turning the car off and then on again sorts the problem, then it's 99% certain that's limp mode. You need to scan the car with VCDS as normal OBD2 readers won't show a lot of codes that VCDS will (17705 being a good example)

On remapped cars the 17705 pressure drop code is 99% of the time down to a 'bug' in the software. There is a certain value that needs changing to stop it happening.

 

[RDS1972]

Interesting Matty, so would a reflash of an amended code sort it?

 

[mty12345]

Yeah, it's just one value(FVPDKLDUS) that needs changing from a 5 to a 0.

It only happens when the temp is below 5C or 6C at start up though, tends to disapear in the summer and then everyone gets it when the weather gets colder again

It's worth noting that it can be caused for other reasons, (i.e a real pressure drop or faulty maf) but in my experience, if the car is remapped and pipework and DV are ok, then 99% of the time that value is the reason for it.

 

[RDS1972]

Clever stuff. Thanks for the answer.

 

[paulos44]

Well, I've finally got the VCDS working and here's the verdict...

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[paulos44]

Well I've been out and checked all the spark plugs and they all look fine which also means all coil packs are ok, as i was expecting. Also checked were DV valve and all engine related rubber pipes as best I could.
Tomorrow I'm gonna fit a new fuel filter and clean the MAF and go from there........<

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[Gaz20VT]

I would have to say that the plug you've shown does look a touch lean. I'd like to see a slightly more tan/brown colour than that.
Fuel filter might be a good start, following that can you check the fuel pressure regulator in any way?

 

[paulos44]

Well yes that's what i was thinking..........I did change the MAF a few weeks ago for 1 out of a 2008 Octavia VRS just because I got it cheap and was same Bosch part number.....Made no difference to the performance so think i will stick the original back on....Could fit a new FPR as well I suppose......

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[paulos44]

Just a thought...The plugs are BKR5E instead of the usual BKR6E. I read somewhere that they are more suitable for a remapped engine as they supposedly run cooler......

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[mty12345]

Well, I've finally got the VCDS working and here's the verdict...

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As above, replacing the fuel filter is a good and cheap start. Running lean is either going to be caused by a lack of fuel, a problem with measuring the mixture (O2 sensor) or unmetered air... I.E air getting into the system that hasn't been measured by the MAF

 

[paulos44]

Well i had a go at replacing the fuel filter earlier and couldn't get the rear hose off....Seems the little button you have to push in is at the top and there was no free movement to pull it down to clear the recess it sits in......

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