Finally got together all the bits needed for this install. Primarily it was just for the mirror, but seeing as the Dash Cam is next to identical I thought I'd do them both together..... The Dash Cam is from my old car, the mirror is new.
The mirror kit came with the copper adaptor, but I had to buy the plastic wiring cover separately..
First to take the oem mirror off grab it by the stem and rotate 90° clockwise.
Then it should simply pull away from the glass... Exposing the oem fixture
Now the adaptor that I received didn't fit the oem fixing very well
I had to do some filing on all surfaces to get it to fit.
Then the next bridge to cross was the fact that the grub screw on the mirror lined up with the hole in the oem fixing.
So what I did was to fill it.. I glued in a small countersunk screw...
This would then give the grub screw something to push against.
While that was drying it's time to open up the dash and expose the fuse box and the side.
The 20A is the ignition feed. This is the 12v power socket fuse. But I'm sure most people already knew this.
Pop off the side to help run the wires...
I ran them along the ceiling, down the pillar and through here to fuse box. Nothing hard about that.
I ran both positives to the fuse splice adaptor...
20A is the 12v power socket and 7.5A is for both my mirror and Dash Cam.
Then I plugged it back into the fuse box.
The grounds I connected to this screw....
This location I copied from an earlier thread for a dash cam install....
Now with the wiring done, my quick drying glue has done its job on the filing screw, so now I can attach the mirror.
And to test it
Yep it works....
Next to attach the dash cam.
I was able to hide most of the wiring along side the mirror wire inside the plastic cover....
After I tested both, just left to fit the side panel and close up the glove box.
As for the dash cam, if you are hard wiring, don't forget these a 5v supply not 12v like the mirror.
So you will need to buy a voltage down converter or do what I did and modify the power socket adaptor that comes with it.. Sorry I don't have any pics of how did it but basically, you split it solder in the wires where the spring loaded prongs go.....
I attached mine here
But in doing so I couldn't re-close the side panel....
So I lobbed off the offending part... Lol.
All back together now and working. I hope this helps....
The mirror kit came with the copper adaptor, but I had to buy the plastic wiring cover separately..
First to take the oem mirror off grab it by the stem and rotate 90° clockwise.
Then it should simply pull away from the glass... Exposing the oem fixture
Now the adaptor that I received didn't fit the oem fixing very well
I had to do some filing on all surfaces to get it to fit.
Then the next bridge to cross was the fact that the grub screw on the mirror lined up with the hole in the oem fixing.
So what I did was to fill it.. I glued in a small countersunk screw...
This would then give the grub screw something to push against.
While that was drying it's time to open up the dash and expose the fuse box and the side.
The 20A is the ignition feed. This is the 12v power socket fuse. But I'm sure most people already knew this.
Pop off the side to help run the wires...
I ran them along the ceiling, down the pillar and through here to fuse box. Nothing hard about that.
I ran both positives to the fuse splice adaptor...
20A is the 12v power socket and 7.5A is for both my mirror and Dash Cam.
Then I plugged it back into the fuse box.
The grounds I connected to this screw....
This location I copied from an earlier thread for a dash cam install....
Now with the wiring done, my quick drying glue has done its job on the filing screw, so now I can attach the mirror.
And to test it
Yep it works....
Next to attach the dash cam.
I was able to hide most of the wiring along side the mirror wire inside the plastic cover....
After I tested both, just left to fit the side panel and close up the glove box.
As for the dash cam, if you are hard wiring, don't forget these a 5v supply not 12v like the mirror.
So you will need to buy a voltage down converter or do what I did and modify the power socket adaptor that comes with it.. Sorry I don't have any pics of how did it but basically, you split it solder in the wires where the spring loaded prongs go.....
I attached mine here
But in doing so I couldn't re-close the side panel....
So I lobbed off the offending part... Lol.
All back together now and working. I hope this helps....
Last edited:
