Hi guys found this floating about on my pc. I did post it in the ibiza no model specific section but i think it needs to be here
First up you'll need your primer, base coat colour, thinners your paint to match your car mixed by a decent paint supplier and your lacquer.
You'll also need scotchbrite, some grit 80 or 120, grit 400, 600 and 800 paper for prep work and some 1200 and 1500 for lacquer touch ups/runs.
Body filler and stopper. Stopper is like filler but you dont need to mix it and it's a lot finer for filling small imperfections.
1) First up trial fit your bumper/body kit and get all the lines for the edges where you want them and whee possible physically attach it with any bolts and scews provided. You'll be gutted if you finish spraying it and you didn't do this first as you'll end up fitting it and respraying it again after!!
2) When you've trimmed any edges and are happy with the fit you'll need to key the surface of the body kit using a combination of the scotchbrite and the heavier grit paper.
3) Apply a lcouple of ight layers of your primer and just as one layer is starting to go off, apply the next. This helps them to stick to each other and the bumper surface.
4) Look for any imperfections in the kit like ripples, small dinks and chips of mishapen fibreglass and get these filled and flatted.
5) When you are happy with the condition of the bumper give it another coat of primer. Then flat the surface using the 400 paper followed by the 600. Some people go for 800 as well after this but some people say 800 is smoother giving better finish where others will say 800 is smoother making it harder for the paint to hold it. Personal preference at the end of the day.
6) Apply a base coat of similar colour to your finished bodykit. The shinyer finish will show up any last small imperfections before going on to your cars actual paint colour. Sort any imperfections, blend the lines and give them another going over with the base coat until they vanish..
7) When you're happy with the final finish of your bumper flat the base coat with 400 and 600 again then you're ready for you colour.
8)The trick to applying your colour is to go over the bodykit with a couple of light layers as you did with the primer before giving it a heavier coat so that its easier for each layer to grab onto each other then as the paint is curing and has gone tacky apply the lacquer so it will grab better to the paint and try to apply it so that it doesn't run.
a couple of runs isn't to bad but if there's a lot then you will end up having trouble sanding them all without damaging the paint underneath.
Don't worry about dust falling into the lacquer as this can be removed later.
If you feel that you need to apply more lacquer then key the top of the existing lacquer with scothchbrite before applying it so that it has something to grab.
9) When the lacquer has cured over night and is thoroughly dry you will find dust in it. Some people say to sand the lacquer with 1200 and 1500 before polishing up. This will remove your orange peel effect, runs and any dust. Or you can use G3 compound which is like t-cut but without ammonis so it doesn't damage your new paint. Halfords also sell this as paint rubbing compound and it does the same as sanding the finish but is less abbraisive.
10) After rubbing the lacquer down and removing any scratches, dust and runs just polish it up to a shiny finish.
Additionally the following tools are recommended
Air Compressor with Oiled motor 150/200 size tank (2 valves and a bleeder valve)
1.5mm Professional Spray gun 1-3 bar with atleast 800ml pot!
Male/Female hosing (10/15 metres recommended)
All the gear above costs around £200 i bought the compressor off ebay for about £130, spray gun for about £50 and the hosing about £6-10
First up you'll need your primer, base coat colour, thinners your paint to match your car mixed by a decent paint supplier and your lacquer.
You'll also need scotchbrite, some grit 80 or 120, grit 400, 600 and 800 paper for prep work and some 1200 and 1500 for lacquer touch ups/runs.
Body filler and stopper. Stopper is like filler but you dont need to mix it and it's a lot finer for filling small imperfections.
1) First up trial fit your bumper/body kit and get all the lines for the edges where you want them and whee possible physically attach it with any bolts and scews provided. You'll be gutted if you finish spraying it and you didn't do this first as you'll end up fitting it and respraying it again after!!
2) When you've trimmed any edges and are happy with the fit you'll need to key the surface of the body kit using a combination of the scotchbrite and the heavier grit paper.
3) Apply a lcouple of ight layers of your primer and just as one layer is starting to go off, apply the next. This helps them to stick to each other and the bumper surface.
4) Look for any imperfections in the kit like ripples, small dinks and chips of mishapen fibreglass and get these filled and flatted.
5) When you are happy with the condition of the bumper give it another coat of primer. Then flat the surface using the 400 paper followed by the 600. Some people go for 800 as well after this but some people say 800 is smoother giving better finish where others will say 800 is smoother making it harder for the paint to hold it. Personal preference at the end of the day.
6) Apply a base coat of similar colour to your finished bodykit. The shinyer finish will show up any last small imperfections before going on to your cars actual paint colour. Sort any imperfections, blend the lines and give them another going over with the base coat until they vanish..
7) When you're happy with the final finish of your bumper flat the base coat with 400 and 600 again then you're ready for you colour.
8)The trick to applying your colour is to go over the bodykit with a couple of light layers as you did with the primer before giving it a heavier coat so that its easier for each layer to grab onto each other then as the paint is curing and has gone tacky apply the lacquer so it will grab better to the paint and try to apply it so that it doesn't run.
a couple of runs isn't to bad but if there's a lot then you will end up having trouble sanding them all without damaging the paint underneath.
Don't worry about dust falling into the lacquer as this can be removed later.
If you feel that you need to apply more lacquer then key the top of the existing lacquer with scothchbrite before applying it so that it has something to grab.
9) When the lacquer has cured over night and is thoroughly dry you will find dust in it. Some people say to sand the lacquer with 1200 and 1500 before polishing up. This will remove your orange peel effect, runs and any dust. Or you can use G3 compound which is like t-cut but without ammonis so it doesn't damage your new paint. Halfords also sell this as paint rubbing compound and it does the same as sanding the finish but is less abbraisive.
10) After rubbing the lacquer down and removing any scratches, dust and runs just polish it up to a shiny finish.
Additionally the following tools are recommended
Air Compressor with Oiled motor 150/200 size tank (2 valves and a bleeder valve)
1.5mm Professional Spray gun 1-3 bar with atleast 800ml pot!
Male/Female hosing (10/15 metres recommended)
All the gear above costs around £200 i bought the compressor off ebay for about £130, spray gun for about £50 and the hosing about £6-10
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