How to break-in a Cupra engine?

mainaman

Active Member
Feb 19, 2010
116
0
London
I will be picking my Cupra on Monday,i am looking for any advice how to run-in the engine.

Does it really have to be always within the speed limit and the first half of the rev range,gearbox with sport auto mode embargo,and for how many miles?

And do i have to do an oil change after several thousand miles?

Any opinions will be appreciated...
 

MacFever

Active Member
Nov 30, 2009
139
0
Brussels
The manual says :
- first 1000 km not more than 2/3 of the maximum speed and no hard accelerations (I am keeping the engine under 3500 rpm)
- for another 500 km the same thing but now and then you can you to the maximum revs
After that you can trash it :p
 
Jul 11, 2009
643
0
Dorking
when i was in the trade, the fastest MK1/2 Golf GTi's we got in had been driven hard from new, but also serviced properly.(i drove about 3000 of them in 9 years) the engine builder for my MK1 and MK2 Golf GTi said if you don't drive hard, the engine won't bed in and the bores glaze up meaning the oil consumption stays high. i bought a Jetta GTi 8V with 100,000 miles on it, but it was very slow and down on power because it had been driven on a light throttle all its 1 owner life. by the time i sold it at 150,000 miles, it did a 16.1 1/4mile at Santa Pod with the weight of a full cage in it, and put down 135bhp. i had the head worked on and other stuff like 4 branch, but the block/crank/pistons were still untouched. my current Cupra has been thrashed from day 1, day 2 was a 120mph trip to get the exhaust changed, but it has had 2 oil changes so far as well! ( 1 at day 3, and 1 at 1800 miles). so far, goes like a rocket and uses no oil. running in was advised for cars years ago when parts could not be machined with todays tolerances and had to be 'introduced' to each other carefully. race engines had to be 'blueprinted' to avoid seizing, that is, rebuild exactly with the correct clearances etc as factory. so, a new car does not need 'running in', it needs using as intended.
 

Dannydp

Active Member
Jan 26, 2007
153
0
when i was in the trade, the fastest MK1/2 Golf GTi's we got in had been driven hard from new, but also serviced properly.(i drove about 3000 of them in 9 years) the engine builder for my MK1 and MK2 Golf GTi said if you don't drive hard, the engine won't bed in and the bores glaze up meaning the oil consumption stays high. i bought a Jetta GTi 8V with 100,000 miles on it, but it was very slow and down on power because it had been driven on a light throttle all its 1 owner life. by the time i sold it at 150,000 miles, it did a 16.1 1/4mile at Santa Pod with the weight of a full cage in it, and put down 135bhp. i had the head worked on and other stuff like 4 branch, but the block/crank/pistons were still untouched. my current Cupra has been thrashed from day 1, day 2 was a 120mph trip to get the exhaust changed, but it has had 2 oil changes so far as well! ( 1 at day 3, and 1 at 1800 miles). so far, goes like a rocket and uses no oil. running in was advised for cars years ago when parts could not be machined with todays tolerances and had to be 'introduced' to each other carefully. race engines had to be 'blueprinted' to avoid seizing, that is, rebuild exactly with the correct clearances etc as factory. so, a new car does not need 'running in', it needs using as intended.

Don't know a lot about engines but have done a little research into this in the past n came to the same conclusion. From what i read before it seems take the first 50 miles easy ish then after that gradually but quickly build up to usual use. Like u said the fastest cars seem to come from been driven hard from the start but also looked after accordingly.
 

M12ETM

Active Member
Dec 11, 2009
126
0
Luton
Fortunately i pick mine up from milton keynes which is ALL dual carriage ways, and then have to get on the motorway for about a 30mile drive home :D.
WILL be fun :D
 

mainaman

Active Member
Feb 19, 2010
116
0
London
Thanks for the replies.Piston rings sealing and oil change seem to be of paramount importance,but the dreaded glazing could occure from both hard driving(hot temps) and slow driving(not enough cylinder pressure):think:
 

mainaman

Active Member
Feb 19, 2010
116
0
London
Remember your brake pads and tyres, its not really the engine that needs the running in...


Well,it's the engine run-in aspect i am unfamiliar with,i am still on the fence whether to follow the manual or give it a boot(not over 80 initially,of course) from day one.
 

craigboca

Active Member
Sep 21, 2009
119
0
Glasgow
Well,it's the engine run-in aspect i am unfamiliar with,i am still on the fence whether to follow the manual or give it a boot(not over 80 initially,of course) from day one.

As I said it's not really the engine that needs running in, your brakes and tyres do,fly out of the dealership by all means(thats what I did)-but make sure you have plenty room to stop more so than usual because your pads aren't bedded in and won't perform as well and also you could glaze them which is something you want to avoid
 

mardon

Feel the DIFFerence
Sep 22, 2008
2,599
2
A bean bag
^ finding a happy medium is where its at. If you've gone for the AP even when not bedding in they will be better than normal brakes! :)
 

ibiza matt

Guest
run it in hard. all the cars at ma work tht are "company" cars gethell from the word go and are much quicker than ones some old lady has had and driven at 1500rpm all its life lol, like every1s saying dont over coock the brakes, or leave to small stopping distace because you dont want to ruin what is a stunning motor, ( jelous ) wish i had the money for one of these lol.
 
Progressive Parts, performance parts and tuning specialists