There's now't wrong with a high-mile LC/LCR, PROVIDING it's been properly looked after + has a 100% pukka FSH.
I recently bought a LCR. Had an AA inspection for mechanicals (incl road test), which cost £127 (incl thorough data check), but first did the following checks myself (list compiled via info for general used-car buying + stuff on SC.net re LCs/LCRs):
Does the owner have a genuine reason for selling?
Get a HPI check BEFORE you view - no point in viewing a car if it has dubious provenance.
Ask current owner to drive car when cold, if they thrash it while engine is cold – WALK AWAY! Also, if he/she rests hand on gearknob while driving, this creates probs with gearbox in longterm (sorry, can't remember exact prob - but it's pricey to fix).
Check the FSH: srvcs should be every year or 10k, whichever occurs FIRST - any less & it's NOT a FSH. Correct srvc/oil-change intervals are vital for LC/LCR longevity.
Has the cambelt / water-pump (brass impeller spec) been changed @ 5 years or 60k? Cambelt-change only, thereafter (at same interval).
Any history of probs with coilpacks? If so, make sure coils are latest R-spec.
How many owners? More than 3, depending on car’s age, with short periods of ownership (less than 2 years) could indicate a troublesome car that people keep getting rid of. If car is for sale on SC.net, read ALL of the owner’s posts to check it’s not been a long tale of woe.
Is the MAF clean?
Is the exhuast smokey when engine is warm?
Flat spots at 2,500-3,000rpm?
Can you check under the car?
Is the under tray still in place? These often get damaged / ripped off (£100 odd to replace).
Check exhaust brackets are fully intact.
Brakes, much left on them? Discs OK?
Check engine temp doesn't go over 90C.
Check for play in steering.
When warmed up, put in 6th at 30mph and put your foot down to check for clutch wear. Is the clutch-pedal action smooth + consistent?
Do gears engage correctly when driving in a spirited fashion (1st and 2nd especially)?
Car brakes in straight line / drives in straight line? Is tyre-wear consistent across whole tread? Tyre condition?
Body alignment, dents, scratches etc.
Is the engine bay reasonably tidy or look 'neglected'? Check/squeeze hoses (hard is bad)?
Check all fluid levels; is oil on dipstick a dark golden colour (good) or black & treacle-like (bad, ie old); is there 'mayo' on inside of oil cap?
Rattles (interior).
Put on the aircon and select 'low' for temperature. The radiator fans should come on but at a slow speed when using aircon. If the fans come on fast and loud then on / off, then the fan motor resistors have gone.
Check all electrics, windows, lights (interior, heads, sides, fogs, brakes', indicators/hazards + heads' adjustment etc).
Do the mirrors fold-in via the adjustment knob (turn to 6 o'clock position). Do they open OK when back to 12 o'clock position?
Boot lock work ok?
Does it have a computer? If so, have a scroll through, you may be able to see how its been driven... (mpg etc)
Check the CD changer works (load with 6 CDs & play).
Check all the speakers work
Evidence of water ingress in boot, under driver/passenger floor mats.
Check the rear wiper washer works fine and is not leaking into the boot.
Is the spare tyre in place & legal? Is OE-fit toolkit incl?
Fully open and close all the windows and check for any nasty cracking/twanging noises - the cables can snap and unravel inside resulting in the glass falling inside the door. Check that central locking works on all doors. Both not massively expensive to fix but require stripping down the door and are a bit of a PITA.
If all of the above is to your satisfaction - if not, obviously use faults to negotiate re price - then have AA check.
VITAL: make sure you're present when AA mechanic has finished so you can ask for a spoken, overall summation with specifics - the AA written-report is VERY ambiguous (for reasons of litigation). If you're not car-savvy, have a friend present who is, to interpret AA-speak.
TBH, I would have preferred it if my car had been checked at my local, trusted garage (VAG specialists), where they're straight talking (& cheaper than AA). However, it was too far to travel – hence the AA inspection.
Good luck.
