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Has anyone changed rear pads, help really needed
- Thread starter scottzedal
- Start date
The handbrake mechanism is purely mechanical, a threaded pushrod screwed into the back of the piston, worked by a bellcrank off the handbrake cable. As the pads wear, the piston slowly climbs up the threaded rod, moving up every time you apply the footbrake.
To get it back down the rod, you need to push it in and turn it at the same time. You can do this with long-nosed pliers, but it's a nasty job, even in a pit, and if you slip you'll ruin the dust seal gaiter.
By law the handbrake has to be a completely separate mechanism from the footbrake, and this is the cheapest way, common on most cars with rear disks. It is the source of a lot of rear brake problems, as it often jams. Having a little drum brake inside the disk is a much better idea, as drum brakes self-servo i.e. apply themselves more strongly as the wheel turns. If your disks are hot and you don't apply the handbrake strongly enough, a disk-handbrake can lose effectiveness and your car can roll away
Get a replacement for the leaking hose. There's no way to repair it, brake pressures are too high and you can't get a Radweld equivalent to put into the brake fluid
To get it back down the rod, you need to push it in and turn it at the same time. You can do this with long-nosed pliers, but it's a nasty job, even in a pit, and if you slip you'll ruin the dust seal gaiter.
By law the handbrake has to be a completely separate mechanism from the footbrake, and this is the cheapest way, common on most cars with rear disks. It is the source of a lot of rear brake problems, as it often jams. Having a little drum brake inside the disk is a much better idea, as drum brakes self-servo i.e. apply themselves more strongly as the wheel turns. If your disks are hot and you don't apply the handbrake strongly enough, a disk-handbrake can lose effectiveness and your car can roll away
Get a replacement for the leaking hose. There's no way to repair it, brake pressures are too high and you can't get a Radweld equivalent to put into the brake fluid
Brake lines on later VAG cars dont take too kindly to abuse, in fact there fragile as f#ck - been there and done that on a mk4 golf
You'll have to buy a complete new line, that includes the solid line that runs along the beam to the swivel connection on the beam.
1J0611764K right rear
1J0611763K left rear
Doubt your seat maindealer will have it stock, but your vv & audi dealers more than likely will
You'll have to buy a complete new line, that includes the solid line that runs along the beam to the swivel connection on the beam.
1J0611764K right rear
1J0611763K left rear
Doubt your seat maindealer will have it stock, but your vv & audi dealers more than likely will
Thanks boyz
I went to Halfords this morning and bought a piston compression thing and it worked a treat.
Only took 35 mins to do the opposite side from wheel off to back on
I had never come across the wind back piston type before and this really threw me, just wish i'd of come on here to check before i'd started but was all too last minute with it being Christmas/familly visits and all that.
I ordered a new brake line from L.C Charles this morning for £20 and should be here tomorrow.
You are right F2Stu it comes complete with the metal line upto the beam.
I'm a bit nervous about doing this, is there anything i need to be aware of when doing this.
I've bought a bleed kit and additional fluid but could do with some reassurance
Cheers
Scott
I went to Halfords this morning and bought a piston compression thing and it worked a treat.
Only took 35 mins to do the opposite side from wheel off to back on
I had never come across the wind back piston type before and this really threw me, just wish i'd of come on here to check before i'd started but was all too last minute with it being Christmas/familly visits and all that.
I ordered a new brake line from L.C Charles this morning for £20 and should be here tomorrow.
You are right F2Stu it comes complete with the metal line upto the beam.
I'm a bit nervous about doing this, is there anything i need to be aware of when doing this.
I've bought a bleed kit and additional fluid but could do with some reassurance
Cheers
Scott
Get a decent 11m brake pipe spanner you'll be really screwed if you round off a union.
The other thing is the master cylinder on the mk1 leons are fickle as f##k - fluid should really be pressure bled rather than pump the prake pedal as the seals have a habit of turning themselves inside out.
Other than that, its pretty easy.
The other thing is the master cylinder on the mk1 leons are fickle as f##k - fluid should really be pressure bled rather than pump the prake pedal as the seals have a habit of turning themselves inside out.
Other than that, its pretty easy.
Do i need the spanner for where the two steel pipes meet on the beam??
I hoped the thing came bent to shape, don't tell me i've got to bend the bleeding thing too
I hoped the thing came bent to shape, don't tell me i've got to bend the bleeding thing too
No, your new pipe will come bent up to the correct shape & length ready to fit
You'll need an 11mm spanner best make it a pipe spanner
You'll need an 11mm spanner best make it a pipe spanner
sorry to confuse,we had mine made for length and bent it ourselves,dealer supplied will be bent to shape for you.
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