Front suspension bolt
- Thread starter pandamin
- Start date
Not too sure about sizes, but you could probably pick one up from SEAT without it being too dear. Probably best given the importance of it! Have you tried screw extractors? You have to drill a pilot hole then the screw extractor has a reverse thread (it screws in anti clockwise, which will eventually start turning your bolt). I think most big motor factors (including the well known one with the orange sign) sell them
It's an M8x26 bolt and the part number for a replacement is N10127707
You may have to remove the whole strut assembly to remove the thread as it goes in the top strut mount. You could be lucky however, and use a bolt extractor as TDiPat suggests.
Your pictures suggests this will be difficult.
You may have to remove the whole strut assembly to remove the thread as it goes in the top strut mount. You could be lucky however, and use a bolt extractor as TDiPat suggests.
Your pictures suggests this will be difficult.
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It is M8 but I can't remember what the thread pitch is. One thing, if you do attempt to remove this bolt, use plenty of proper release fluid and not WD40 etc. The lower end of these bolts is exposed to road water/salt etc and will be more easily removed if "wound in/down" as that will expose clean threads instead of trying to drag rusty threads up through the captive nut which is part of the top mount. In worst case it might mean replacing that top mount, top bearing, 3-off securing bolts and 1-off strut retaining self locking nut. If you do use extractors or "easi-outs" just make sure that you buy only quality ones and use the correct size of drills otherwise you will end up with a broken extractor in the broken bolt! If you are very lucky, and you have used the correct release fluid, then when you drill down into the bolt, you might end up driving the broken bolt down and out of the top mount. The broken part of that bolt is now only roughly 25mm long and there is enough room for it to be driven down and out below the top mounting.
Edit:- ah I took a bit too long to finish that post! Also, one worrying bit if you are a novice is, that as that is the driver's side, the drive shaft needs to be released from the hub to get the strut out of the hub.
Edit:- ah I took a bit too long to finish that post! Also, one worrying bit if you are a novice is, that as that is the driver's side, the drive shaft needs to be released from the hub to get the strut out of the hub.
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firstly buy 3 bolts they're not expensive I would be inclined to try and slacken each of the others in turn if you get two loose at the same time move the leg till you centre the broken end in it's hole then drill a suitable size hole (sharp drill -no crap) to take an allan key with a slight taper ground on the end, tap it in tight and screw right thro' as per Rum4Mo best of luck
Remove the whole strut assembly and try extractors again, if that fails just replace top strut mount.
Brilliant bodge 10/10! Really to save time etc, it might be better now to stop that approach and buy a new top mount, top bearing and strut top nut and hope that you can compress the road spring enough to remove that strut from the car without needing to remove the drive shaft. You can't really live with that car in that condition, not as safe as it should be.
If you do take that approach, once you have the bottom of the strut out, just over tighten the remaining two top bolts and they will shear, save messing about removing them in one piece for them and the top mount to get binned.
Edit:- Oh bother! Beaten to it again while composing a long reply!!!!
Edit again!:- are you sure that you are being generous enough when drilling the hole for the extractor - "big is good" .
If you do take that approach, once you have the bottom of the strut out, just over tighten the remaining two top bolts and they will shear, save messing about removing them in one piece for them and the top mount to get binned.
Edit:- Oh bother! Beaten to it again while composing a long reply!!!!
Edit again!:- are you sure that you are being generous enough when drilling the hole for the extractor - "big is good" .
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Better to let the Seat/VW/Skoda parts place provide them, or look at the on-line parts catalogue.
http://www.partscats.info/
http://www.partscats.info/
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Top Strut Mount - Number 4 (6Q0412331B) http://www.partsbase.org/seat/ibiza-st-ib-eu-2005-41115-suspension-shock-absorbers/#p-sea-6q0412331b
You'll also need a top strut mount bearing - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/S...243673463916eea3b03c9218f862c849360c91&000872
You'll also need a top strut mount bearing - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/S...243673463916eea3b03c9218f862c849360c91&000872
If it helps, the bearings that ECP sell are the same brand as VAG sell, maybe GKN, I know, I have replaced these bearings once on one side and twice on other side, these bearings tend to get fitted dryish and are meant to get shielded by dust/water shields, these are never 100% effective, so as the car gets older, you find that you will hear the odd "twang" when turning the steering wheel, that is the stiction in the rusted top mount bearing fighting the spring needing to wind up/down until the bearing gives way and allows rotation of the top of the spring. Number of balls and their diameter has changed a lot since initial launch of these cars.
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