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Expert help needed ASAP

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
Hi guys, I need some expert help, some mechanical help and if possible some local garage/mechanical help.

You may or may not be aware that I have been having some mis-fire issues. I was having the “lumpy” engine not running properly symptoms. So I change the Coil Packs, still mis-firing, changed the spark plugs, still mis-firing. So I decided that I needed a garages help.

Towed it to my local VAG specialist, they have run several tests and have told me the verdict, and its not looking good.

No compression in cylinder 3. They are going to have to strip the engine, head off to see what the damage is. Could be a burnt valve, could be a bent rod, literally who knows until they have had it stripped.

I asked him to talk me through it – cylinder head off, check everything they can and see why they are losing compression, check the pistons, rods, valves, take the head gasket off get that stripped down tested and pressed/skim the head. Then once they have seen what the problem is, fix it. Then put it all back together again with the new valves, timing belt, gaskets etc.. Honestly I’m looking at circa £1000 and I can’t afford/justify it at the moment.

So – what I need advice/help on is who lives local to me (Hampshire) that could help with this? Anything else worth changing whilst the engine is stripped bare?
Should I give up on it and strip/sell the car?
How much can be DIY/over a few days coz if it’s cheaper I will SORN it, buy a £100 1.0l runaround, insure that (saving more money) and then strip it on the drive with as much help from as many people as possible, buy the parts and rebuild the engine. I am of course willing to look at anything right now so I need some help, fast!

If you have any ideas please list below, or PM me and I would be more than happy to give you my mobile number so we can talk more.

I have a fair few mods on the car and its running stage 2 revo – last dyno was 280bhp and 313lb torque.
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,483
6
Northumberland
One thing I saw happen once...always worth a try...
Find out if there are any local car workshop training or college mechanics course going on and offer up your car for them to use as a class project.
They'll strip it for free, with a qualified professional watching over at all times. Find the fault and if you were to provide parts...put it back together for you :) Sell it as a good learning case for their students. Of course...all risk and liability is on you. But same counts for doing it on your drive.

As I said...I've only heard of this happening in real life once, but hey...
 

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
One thing I saw happen once...always worth a try...
Find out if there are any local car workshop training or college mechanics course going on and offer up your car for them to use as a class project.
They'll strip it for free, with a qualified professional watching over at all times. Find the fault and if you were to provide parts...put it back together for you :) Sell it as a good learning case for their students. Of course...all risk and liability is on you. But same counts for doing it on your drive.

As I said...I've only heard of this happening in real life once, but hey...

Sounds like a good (free) idea! I know someone who is doing that cause at the moment at a local college funnily enough.
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,483
6
Northumberland
OK I will ask them if they did that or not. He did say thay he thinks it could just be a burnt out inlet valve - does that sound like a cause?

On a stage2 I would expect it to be the exhaust valve more..but inlet is perfectly plausible too.

If it's just the one cylinder that has a leak it's going to be your valves or the piston(rings), isn't it?

If any other cylinders next to it are showing issues...gasket shot. Cheaper fix.

Question is how much damage was done to the engine...if you're unlucky.
 

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
Yeah you wont get any compression as it is all escaping

OK ill ask them and see what they say.

Just need to sort out the cheapest, easiest option. time doesnt really matter as I can SORN it, change insurance and buy a cheap run around that has either 6month MOT + Tax left, or a years on it/someone wants a quick sell and then work on it with some able hands in order to get it sorted.
 

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
On a stage2 I would expect it to be the exhaust valve more..but inlet is perfectly plausible too.

If it's just the one cylinder that has a leak it's going to be your valves or the piston(rings), isn't it?

If any other cylinders next to it are showing issues...gasket shot. Cheaper fix.

Question is how much damage was done to the engine...if you're unlucky.

ok, if its the exhaust valve how can you tell that? No other cylinders are showing issues, just cyclinder 3. Im not sure how much damage was/has been done. I drove it about 5 miles on 3 cylinders, changed the coil pack, started it (still lumpy) walked to the local motorist discount centre, changed the spark plugs, still not working. havnt driving it since, started it a few times obviously but nothing more then that.
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,483
6
Northumberland
ok, if its the exhaust valve how can you tell that? No other cylinders are showing issues, just cyclinder 3. Im not sure how much damage was/has been done. I drove it about 5 miles on 3 cylinders, changed the coil pack, started it (still lumpy) walked to the local motorist discount centre, changed the spark plugs, still not working. havnt driving it since, started it a few times obviously but nothing more then that.

Easy way to test does require a good ear. Basically you have to blow compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and see where the noise is loudest.
If you hear a grunt through the air intake...intake valve is burned/chipped and is letting through air.
If your exhaust starts to sound like wind is blowing through it....exhaust valve.
Another option is piston, which you might hear through the oil filler hole.

Don't forget to rock the car so that the engine is TDC.#

I'd still say spend an afternoon and pull theh ead off...it's not that hard.
 
Last edited:

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
Easy way to test does require a good ear. Basically you have to blow compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and see where the noise is loudest.
If you hear a grunt through the air intake...intake valve is burned/chipped and is letting through air.
If your exhaust starts to sound like wind is blowing through it....exhaust valve.
Another option is piston, which you might hear through the oil filler hole.

Don't forget to rock the car so that the engine is TDC.#

I'd still say spend an afternoon and pull theh ead off...it's not that hard.

ok that is an idea and worth investigating.

its not that hard - i have never done ti before. I have a good mechanical hand and can replace/take apart most things but never stripped a head before
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,483
6
Northumberland
ok that is an idea and worth investigating.

its not that hard - i have never done ti before. I have a good mechanical hand and can replace/take apart most things but never stripped a head before

The thing is...it's kind of a in-for-a-penny situation because once you have diagnosed the problem (intake valve, exhaust valve, gaskets, piston rings, etc)....the head still has to come off. If not the engine out... but let's stay positive.

The only thing trying to test it in advance will give you is a decent start of a shopping list :)

And even if you find it's valve X...where has the chip gone if it has been chipped...if it's floating around in Cyl3...has it caused damage to the cylinder wall? You might still be stuck with compression issues and oil being burned in your cylinder.

But, as Lee suggested...finding a college might not be as much of a long-shot as I thought ;)
 

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
Quick update - spoke to the garage its running at 10psi so thats not good at all. Asked about the pistons/rings and they said that they really dont think that that is the problem and that it rarely is them. He said it is either an inlet or exhaust valve.

Whilst i'm there I ight as well upgrade the rods for forged ones right?? haha last thing I want is to sort this and then pop a rod at a later date!
 

CupraTim

Active Member
Dec 13, 2010
539
4
Southampton - Hampshire
Why not throw in the relentless exhaust manifold too then? - if funds permit it of course!

I will have to open it up and see what the problem is, if its exhaust valves then I could be ok and therefore the price isnt going to be that high. But if its something else then that could be more expensive. I am going to get a mate (whos a mechanica) to help and prob a couple of his mates too.

Other then dmaage/wear on the engine parts, what are the main culprits I should I look for?
Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve
Head Gasket
Pistons and Rings

Secondly, what is a good engine cleaner? As I have it all in pieces I might as well clean the whole lot too!