Dsg fault P175D jumping out of gear when in first

[Jim12]

Hi not sure if this is the best place to post this I’m new to this forum tbing here we go.

I Was at a red light the other evening when I went to set of the car jumped into “neutral” had to put the selector in neutral and back into D where the the same thing happened a few times before I managed to baby it just gently pressing the accelerator for it to not jump out of gear and get to the side of the road where it was in a limp mode. Scanned it and got codes for clutch adaptive learning limit reached and clutch 1 opens unexpectedly I cleared them and the car drives fine did some full boost pulls in 3rd and 4th no slip and changes gear like normal but when I came back to a stop at a round about it did the same thing and jumped out of gear with the same fault codes I did this once more and the same result, I’m not sure if it’s a coincidence but both times it happened the GB oil was around 60 degrees C. I’m new to dsg so don’t have vast amount of knowledge but I am thinking about maybe replacing the 2 clutch solenoids n215/n216. Any thoughts or ideas would be massively appreciated

about the car
Mk3 290 dsg
Littco l560 555bhp
Dq250(i know ticking time bomb at this power) 45k miles on gearbox

sorry for the long post still new to this lol but again any help is massively appreciated

 

[tracktoy]

Dont know the answer and not an expert but a couple questions.

When it jumps out have you tried going into manual mode to see if she will work with manual change

Have you tried doing a adaptaton reset as this certainly can help in some cases.

Afraid all the stuff I have seen (Skoda mainly) points to mechatronic problems but again thats only reading on the web not personal knowledge.

Oil temps are fine but as always has the gearbox had a service

Also have a read of this https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/6-Speed-DSG-Automatic-Transmission-Faults

If the codes mention “clutch limits reached” (or something similar), there’s a good chance the problem is your clutch. Typically (though not always) this won’t occur until after the aforementioned juddering/shuddering fault. If the codes mention “adaptations,” it’s possible that your problem may be fixed with an adaptation reset. You’ll need to find someone with a good VAG diagnostic tool for this.

If the codes mention any sensors, gear ratios, or unexpected mechanical disengagements, the problem is almost certainly your mechatronic. The mechatronic is the name given to the electro-hydraulic control unit that is responsible for controlling the gearbox, and it’s a very expensive lump. Fortunately, there are many companies that can repair this fault, and a quick search of “DSG Mechatronic Repair” should yield plenty of results. It should be noted, however, that these companies are limited in what they can test for and repair in these mechatronic units. I have been involved in a number of situations where the repair company tested the mechatronic and found to be “ok,” yet the fault was eventually cured with a replacement mechatronic. Bear in mind, with these repair companies, “tested ok” means they couldn’t find a fault—not that there’s nothing wrong with it.

 

[Jim12]

Dont know the answer and not an expert but a couple questions.

When it jumps out have you tried going into manual mode to see if she will work with manual change

Have you tried doing a adaptaton reset as this certainly can help in some cases.

Afraid all the stuff I have seen (Skoda mainly) points to mechatronic problems but again thats only reading on the web not personal knowledge.

Oil temps are fine but as always has the gearbox had a service

Also have a read of this https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/6-Speed-DSG-Automatic-Transmission-Faults

If the codes mention “clutch limits reached” (or something similar), there’s a good chance the problem is your clutch. Typically (though not always) this won’t occur until after the aforementioned juddering/shuddering fault. If the codes mention “adaptations,” it’s possible that your problem may be fixed with an adaptation reset. You’ll need to find someone with a good VAG diagnostic tool for this.

If the codes mention any sensors, gear ratios, or unexpected mechanical disengagements, the problem is almost certainly your mechatronic. The mechatronic is the name given to the electro-hydraulic control unit that is responsible for controlling the gearbox, and it’s a very expensive lump. Fortunately, there are many companies that can repair this fault, and a quick search of “DSG Mechatronic Repair” should yield plenty of results. It should be noted, however, that these companies are limited in what they can test for and repair in these mechatronic units. I have been involved in a number of situations where the repair company tested the mechatronic and found to be “ok,” yet the fault was eventually cured with a replacement mechatronic. Bear in mind, with these repair companies, “tested ok” means they couldn’t find a fault—not that there’s nothing wrong with it.

Hi thanks for the reply I have tried manual mode but when it happens it puts the gearbox into limp mode so I’m stuck in 1 gear anyway I also tried adaptations the other week but had no effect. When doing my own research I have come accros the Skoda pages suggesting mechatronic failure they just don’t go into much detail regarding what in the mech has failed if it’s just solinoids/valves I can open the mech up and change those. The gearbox is actually the second gearbox the car has had was fitted and mapped again back in January after the first one shredded 4th so was serviced with new oil and filter back in January.

 

[tracktoy]

From what i have read it can be a seal blown, solinoids/valves and or circuit board failure but the average mechanic wont know so they will just suggest new unit.

 

[Jim12]

From what i have read it can be a seal blown, solinoids/valves and or circuit board failure but the average mechanic wont know so they will just suggest new unit.

I’m hoping it’s something mechanical on the mech as cutting the case open to get access to the bored Is where I draw the line for me lol just annoying having to get a new mech coded in and then having to go and get it mapped for the third time getting expensive then

 

[Jim12]

The fact it’s only happening once the oil gets to around 60 degrees is pointing me towards something mechanical as I would assume an electrical issue would be more permanent

 

[tracktoy]

The fact it’s only happening once the oil gets to around 60 degrees is pointing me towards something mechanical as I would assume an electrical issue would be more permanent

Agreed, oddly I did a track day this week and my DSG Temps were

DSG Control module temps for Control Module and Transmission Fluid were constant at 95/7 and 88/89

regardless of how hard I pushed it so 60 is a very odd point to start issues.

Going forward have you fitted a bigger DSG Aux radiator as I found that helped reduce temps.