Cupra Engine Mounts - How many?

[Invisible]

I know we have seen some comments on this topic and opinions in this thread;

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=255395&highlight=engine+mount

However, with so many differnt mounts mentioned I just wanted to understand how many mounts there are on the Mk2 Leon to upgrade replace!!

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought there were 3;

1. The rear engine (pendulum) Mount
2. The Engine Side Mount (Driver / Engine side)
3. The transmission Mount (Passenger / gearbox side)

Is this correct? The 3 I have found are from VF Engineering and are shown as the 3 products at the bottom of this link to the jkm website;

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/tfsimotormounts.htm#tfsi

Clearly the cheaper approach would be to just buy the inserts rather than the full mounts (which come with the inserts) but I guess you would see more benefit replacing the whole mount.

Worth doing all 3?

However, I have also seen people recommend the Engine Torque (DogBone) Mount available from THS;
http://www.thsperformance.co.uk/product/Engine_Torque_Mount_%28Dog_Bone%29_THSFR3MK5-DB

Assume this is a different product to help reduce engine/gearbox movement further and sits underneath the engine/gearbox?

Sorry for all the questions, getting myself confused but as my next project is to get the car to transfer more power to the tarmac and reduce spin/hop (in a fast road type way without increasing too much cabin noise and driver comfort) wanted to get this right!!

My plan was originally to do the dogbone mount (as per link to THS site) first.

Then I will have to get my head around all the different bushes that may be a good idea to replace to improve handling, such as inner wishbones etc!! One step at a time though!

Thanks in advance

PS. Assume it is best to get a garage to fit these mounts if you havent the right tools for the job

 

[Invisible]

Anyone?

Would welcome comments before I go steaming in with the credit card

 

[RobH]

Yep they are the 3 mounts and i was told to do the sub frame/pendulum mount then add the the two side ones if needed however some have just done the 2 side ones and not bothered with the bottom one.

As for bushes and stuff do the WALKit and also do the front wishbone poly bushes as these compliment the WALK.

Then coillies and then youll prob need a clutch and then you might aswell add a diff and then ARBs and then WOT box and then lightweight alloys and then mahoosive brakes you can kinda see where this is going, it just doesnt stop.

 

[ares]

Yes there are 3 of them as you said. I replaced mine with the uprated from BSH. You surely feel more connected to the car and the engine feels bolted on the chassis which gives better acceleration and launch but you get quite a bit of vibration in the cabin. I also fitted the Whiteline anti-lift kit to complement the "package" which overall minimizes wheel hopping. Before the engine mounts you could feel the engine running ahead of the car and then rest of the car followed - now its a blast. All in all the only negative of engine mounts is the noticeable vibration in the cabin but is getting smoother as you add miles to them. For better handling I would also suggest the ARBs - they are must have.

 

[Invisible]

Yep they are the 3 mounts and i was told to do the sub frame/pendulum mount then add the the two side ones if needed however some have just done the 2 side ones and not bothered with the bottom one.

As for bushes and stuff do the WALKit and also do the front wishbone poly bushes as these compliment the WALK.

Then coillies and then youll prob need a clutch and then you might aswell add a diff and then ARBs and then WOT box and then lightweight alloys and then mahoosive brakes you can kinda see where this is going, it just doesnt stop.

Yep it's a slippery slope!!

Thanks for the guidance, puts my mind to rest. Now where did I put my credit card?

 

[Invisible]

Yes there are 3 of them as you said. I replaced mine with the uprated from BSH. You surely feel more connected to the car and the engine feels bolted on the chassis which gives better acceleration and launch but you get quite a bit of vibration in the cabin. I also fitted the Whiteline anti-lift kit to complement the "package" which overall minimizes wheel hopping. Before the engine mounts you could feel the engine running ahead of the car and then rest of the car followed - now its a blast. All in all the only negative of engine mounts is the noticeable vibration in the cabin but is getting smoothing as you add miles to them. For better handling I would also suggest the ARBs - they are must have.

Cheers,

I can probably deal with the added vibration if the car feels planted and secure

 

[Invisible]

so regarding the engine dog bone mounts from THS above, is this another mod additional to the 3 engine mounts and not something that doesnt come as part of a WALK kit?

 

[ares]

I would like to add that by adding uprated engine mounts you can now hear noises you never know they existed. The engine sounds differently. Every little metal rubbing, gears engaging etc etc they are audible if you're a noise freak like me. You'll feel you are in a racing car rather than a civilian car. The first day I changed the mounts I thought my car was broken.

The dog bone is one of the 3 mounts you can upgrade. The WALK is an independent part not related to the engine mounting.

Here are three guides that show the installation of the three independent mounts (they talk about the VF mounts but the mechanics are the same).

1. Transmission mount Link
2. Engine passenger side mount Link
3. Rear engine mount (Dog bone) Link

 

[owen lcr]

strange, allen fitted bsh mounts to his car and he hardly gets any vibration in his can. very little atall, you get more noise but i wouldnt say alot more vibration

 

[ares]

Does he fitted all three (including the dog bone with insert) or just the two left-right of engine. What other upgrades does he have - performance wise.

 

[owen lcr]

he has 2 bsh side mounts and dog bone mount insert and his car sounds brilliant with hardly any vibs atall.

he has diff, clutch, walk, arbs, coilovers, and stage 2+ parts. his car is about as good as it will get with the oem turbo, i cant even see an BT being as driveable as the KO4, as it spools up so quick and pulls right to red...

 

[ares]

I believe that he has fewer vibrations because he used the black silicone insert that came with the BSH dog bone rather the one from Powerflex that came with my Miltek. The insert from BSH is not as beefy as the Powerflex and leaves gaps between the factory rubber and the insert that absorb the vibrations. Please confirm if possible.

 

[ares]

he has 2 bsh side mounts and dog bone mount insert and his car sounds brilliant with hardly any vibs atall.

he has diff, clutch, walk, arbs, coilovers, and stage 2+ parts. his car is about as good as it will get with the oem turbo, i cant even see an BT being as driveable as the KO4, as it spools up so quick and pulls right to red...

Ahh now I noticed he has only the uprated dog bone insert but not the uprated dog bone itself. I have a billet dog bone and the insert, that's why I guess I get more feedback from the engine.

 

[owen lcr]

yeah that sounds about right mate, i am getting the density mount fitted to mine, if it is really bad i will know its the problem as the 2 side mounts give a nice tone IMO

 

[ares]

yeah that sounds about right mate, i am getting the density mount fitted to mine, if it is really bad i will know its the problem as the 2 side mounts give a nice tone IMO

Ohh my Density ehh, I guess you gonna get a lot of vibration from these, especially if you gonna use these

I would suggest you keep the OEM dog bone.

 

[owen lcr]

yeah it might be a good idea, i can always remove it if i dont like it, i just want the engine to be solid as i am sick of sloppy gear changed and breaking downpipe brackets. i might even just tell them to leave it out as the 2 side mounts seem to do a very good job

 

[ares]

yeah it might be a good idea, i can always remove it if i dont like it, i just want the engine to be solid as i am sick of sloppy gear changed and breaking downpipe brackets. i might even just tell them to leave it out as the 2 side mounts seem to do a very good job

Yes they are especially if you have a powerful motor with all upgrades. When I first drove the car hard with the mounts and the walk I thought I installed an LSD to my car. Too bad our roads are shittier than a car with mounts, LSD, walk, ARBs, coilovers etc etc can handle.

As for the brackets I would suggest a ghetto mod. Try adding some spacers between the plastic bracket with the rubber points and the subframe thus bringing it closer to the welded bracket.

 

[owen lcr]

sound like that would work but i am pretty confident that it will now be ok with the now mounts fitted as the engine doesnt move, Before the mounts were in the 2 brakets would hit off the subframe when i had major wheel hop giving a terrible noise and also not doing the DP no good

 

[Invisible]

sound like that would work but i am pretty confident that it will now be ok with the now mounts fitted as the engine doesnt move, Before the mounts were in the 2 brakets would hit off the subframe when i had major wheel hop giving a terrible noise and also not doing the DP no good

Let me know when you have them in would welcome your feedback as will probably do mine in stages rather than put them all on at same time so can find the balance between comfort/movement/noise and control

 

[Blade]

For what its worth i have the 2 side mounts and have next to no engine movement now - i was advised that the pendulum mount was overkill for road cars.