That sounds a bit or a lot like what used to happen with Fords from 1980s/1990s, in as much, as when when the stiction on the locking mechanism became different enough across a car "lock set", with normal central locking ie not remote, you unlocked the driver's door and the car immediately relocked, so while this was happening, the plan was to get prepared and grab the door handle as soon as the key had been turned to unlock the car. The fix for them, having simple solenoid locking mechanism was to check the protective rubber gaitor on all locks and reposition any that had moved along the linkage as that meant that the gaitor(s) that had moved were now starting to become fully compressed before the unlock had happened.Just another point, had another mechanic and my uncle who is very good with electronics take a look at the second burned out unit. The units aren't melting due to an electrical short, they are essentially overheating because the lock was sending a lock/unlock signal to the relay over and over and over. So it's either bad wiring in the passenger door, that I have now changed, OR, as another expert auto electrician said ages ago, the door lock isn't lined up correctly with the car body and the lock isn't fully locking when auto lock kicks in and it's sending the message over and over again to lock and unlock until it burns out. I think I have finally cracked it after nearly 5 months.
On a similar vein, was there not a possible issue with all VW Group car lock mechanism where ending up with a mix of lock mechanism suppliers locks on a car could end up with this continuous "cycling" of the locking mechanism - I'm just posting this in case that situation is now forgotten.