leero783, which "this pipe" are you referring to? The one in the Australian
guide on Autospeed was on a Škoda Roomster which has a different grill arrangement to your car, whatever it is (can't be the TDI sport in your profile as that has a picture of a Mk.1 accompanying it).
I've got two doubts about your corrugated tubing device.
1) The "cold air" myth. The standard feed is already coming from the front grill and will be no hotter than a feed taken from the lower grill. So there's no need for the messy tube in front of the radiator or the low location of the inlet. If you already had the aftermarket filter and it was sucking air in from the engine compartment, then any feed from the front will be an improvement. Taking it down low is not going to
help though, and brings additional danger of water ingestion.
2)The "bigger is better" syndrome. Factors that affect the resistance of a duct include changes in cross-sectional area, changes in direction, length and the surface roughness of the duct. Comparing your duct to the standard arrangement, yours is longer, has more bends in it, is squashed and is corrugated. None of this is going to
help.
And apart from that:
You can get the same mass of air through tubes of different cross-sectional area: all that happens is that the flow velocity goes up (and the static pressure goes down) as the duct area goes down. Provided the duct is large enough that surface effects are minimal, there really isn't any significant gain to be got in this application by making the duct larger. The biggest restriction before we get to the turbo is the air filter.
This is where Julian Edgar's Autospeed article makes a fundamental mistake. He says
"That is, if there’s a restriction to flow, not all the air available from the atmosphere will ‘get through’ – resulting in a pressure drop. "
By measuring only pressure and not velocity he's no idea what the real losses are. Losses come from changes in area, changes in direction, overall length and surface roughness of the duct, but you must measure pressure + velocity (preferably in the middle of the duct) or use a mass flow meter (like the MAF used by the injection system) to get the air mass.
Getting a sense of proportion here, the 14 inches of water he measures at his airbox tap is 0.5 psi. The improvement he makes is 10 inches of water, 0.36 psi. Standard air pressure at sea level, one atmosphere, is 14.7 psi or about 34 feet of water.