change oil filter on leon?

[sciroccoaustin]

Hi,

Am I missing something? I was at GSF today getting some parts for the scirocco, but also got a oil filter and some oil as the seat tdi mk1 leon oil needs changing. The thing is, all the other cars I've changed the oil filter on as it all enclosed in a metal capsule/canister that you screw on. The one they gave me looks more like an odd air filter!!! I checked it online and it seems the right one. So....

How do I change it? Where is it located? Any hints and tips?

Rich

 

[Nam-uk]

going todo mine as well soon, the oil filter housing is right in front of you once you lift the bonnet and pull off the engine cover, i am going to get one of these oil filter tools which i think is the right one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320393373297&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT and a Torque Wrench which is soupose tobe set at 25nm , but safe at 15nm due to less chance of stripping threads (was told this bye a mate who is a mechanic).

also going to get a Pela Oil Extractor Pump to suck the oil out though the dip stick instead of normal sump plug removal.

the 6000
http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/sear...ord=PELA++OIL+EXTRACTOR&brand=&leaf=&x=36&y=2

 

[Muttley]

Hi,

Am I missing something? I was at GSF today getting some parts for the scirocco, but also got a oil filter and some oil as the seat tdi mk1 leon oil needs changing. The thing is, all the other cars I've changed the oil filter on as it all enclosed in a metal capsule/canister that you screw on. The one they gave me looks more like an odd air filter!!! I checked it online and it seems the right one. So....

How do I change it? Where is it located? Any hints and tips?

Rich

Item 9 in this picture

Use the proper tool to remove the cap, it will be damaged if you try to use an adjustable wrench or a strap or chain wrench. Halfords stock one

The cap is plastic and has a long tube going down the middle of the filter housing. You should have two o-rings with the filter, the small one goes on the end of the tube, the large on on the cap.

 

[MJ]

It's a paper element filter as oppose to a metal canister, more environmentally friendly and easier to dispose of than conventional metal ones.

 

[sssstew]

in theory it should be cheaper as well, but in many cases its not for the end customer.

 

[sciroccoaustin]

Item 9 in this picture



Use the proper tool to remove the cap, it will be damaged if you try to use an adjustable wrench or a strap or chain wrench.

The cap is plastic and has a long tube going down the middle of the filter housing. You should have two o-rings with the filter, the small one goes on the end of the tube, the large on on the cap.

Many thanks for this response and others! I'll be doing this when I get back from my hols. I'll let you know how I get on

 

[bonzo]

I know it's a really old thread, but to save starting a new one, is there any particular reason for buying the pump for removing the oil through the dipstick hole rather than getting underneath to remove sump nut (I'm presuming there is one from Nam-uk's post)?
I'm new to these cars and diesels in general and think I should give it a service fairly soon, I was just going to do- Oil, oil filter, get a K&N panel filter, glow plugs.... erm, anything else, cambelts fine for a while.... fuel filter??
Any help appreciated!
Dan

 

[Seatmann]

People find it easier in the sense it saves taking off any splash guard or stripping the sump plug, personally I prefer taking the plug out the old fashioned way. I found it hard to really get the manky oil out through the DP tube.

 

[bonzo]

Ahh, gotcha! I think I'd sooner do it the old fashioned way too. I guess if you couldn't be bothered with jacking the car up etc it would make sense too... but I'd rather use the pump money as beer tokens.

Is it best to replace the sump nut or is there a washer or anything when draining oil that way?

How often should glow plugs be replaced? So far I've priced up a K&N panel air filter (£40), oil (Millers XFE-PD - 5 litres is enough right?) and am about to have a look at the price of an oil and fuel filter (or am I just as well going to a standard motor factors for those 2 things?) and then glow plugs if necessary.
May also invest in that oil filter housing removal tool muttley referred to.

Is there a way of manually resetting the service indicator or is that only possible at a dealers/etc?

 

[ChrisGTL]

Is there a way of manually resetting the service indicator or is that only possible at a dealers/etc?

Try this

turn on key to LIGHTS
(turn ignition key 'til all check lights come on?)

press trip in AND HOLD


still holding turn key off


then back on to lights on
(with trip button still pushed in, turn ignition 'til check lights come on again?)

release then turn to right
(release trip button, then turn trip button to the right)

and hold intil you see SERVICE in screen ~(approx 5 secs)
and hold in trip button until you see service in screen


should then be reset

 

[Nam-uk]

People find it easier in the sense it saves taking off any splash guard or stripping the sump plug, personally I prefer taking the plug out the old fashioned way. I found it hard to really get the manky oil out through the DP tube.

i used that Pela Oil Extractor on last service but i did get the car upto temp, the bottle showed around 5Lt including the oil filter holder i did use a Forta engine flush though due to just got the car, i was well impressed with the Pela.

get the engine upto temp and you have no problems getting the oil out that way mate

 

[ChrisGTL]

i used that Pela Oil Extractor on last service but i did get the car upto temp, the bottle showed around 5Lt including the oil filter holder i did use a Forta engine flush though due to just got the car, i was well impressed with the Pela.

get the engine upto temp and you have no problems getting the oil out that way mate

Some dealers use this method - very quick and doesn't take up a valuable ramp. I'd rather still do it the old way - flush out any metal particles using good old gravity.

 

[bonzo]

Try this

turn on key to LIGHTS
(turn ignition key 'til all check lights come on?)

press trip in AND HOLD


still holding turn key off


then back on to lights on
(with trip button still pushed in, turn ignition 'til check lights come on again?)

release then turn to right
(release trip button, then turn trip button to the right)

and hold intil you see SERVICE in screen ~(approx 5 secs)
and hold in trip button until you see service in screen


should then be reset

Thanks dude, I'll give it a shot after servicing (not doing it for a little while as car is out of use... or rather, I am out of use for the next few months), once I've tried it I'll report back! Just making sure I've got everything I need for when I can get round to doing it

Answered most of my questions, thanks folks.
Only need some info about the glow plugs really... how often (I gather its somewhat dependant on how it's been driven - I can't speak for the last owner, and I've only had it nearly 6 months)

Actually... how often does the fuel filter need doing too?

 

[Nam-uk]

Some dealers use this method - very quick and doesn't take up a valuable ramp. I'd rather still do it the old way - flush out any metal particles using good old gravity.

i would sooner do the old way but getting under the fr is hard as i do not have a low profile jake to remove the guard, also that pump when you feed the pipe all the way down it does get to the bottom of the sump as you can fell it hitting i did not expect to get nearly all the oil out.
if i did get a LP jake to do it the normal way i would possibley also get one of them magnetic sump plugs.

 

[Nam-uk]

Actually... how often does the fuel filter need doing too?

check your service record there changed every 40k, mine was serviced at seat but the filter was never changed and it was a bosch filter which they have not used in a while and the car had done 50k, i would swap the pollen filter as well as if there blocked you can burn out the climate system.

i also use Castrol Edge 5W30, cheap at asda

 

[bonzo]

check your service record there changed every 40k, mine was serviced at seat but the filter was never changed and it was a bosch filter which they have not used in a while and the car had done 50k, i would swap the pollen filter as well as if there blocked you can burn out the climate system.

i also use Castrol Edge 5W30, cheap at asda

Thanks bud, I'll check that all out... do you have any idea on the glow plug situation?

 

[bonzo]

Well, there is no mention to the fuel filter having been changed, it must have in 105k miles, but I'll change it anyway!
Maybe a stupid question, but are 'heater plugs' the same as 'glow plugs'... as my 'heater plugs' were changed 40k miles ago????

 

[Nam-uk]

Thanks bud, I'll check that all out... do you have any idea on the glow plug situation?

if your having no starting issues there is no need to change them also heater plugs is the same thing

also UFI are the supplied filters used at seat they sell them here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ just click cars under service packs and select your car.

 

[bonzo]

Good to know! Saves me a job!
Had a look at that site...

I was initially looking on carparts4less.co.uk and prices were:
Oil filter (Bosch - pretty good as far as I'm aware?) for £3
Pollen filter (Hengst - never heard of them) for £3.84
Fuel filter (Hengst) - £12.90

So £19.74 - UFI ones plus postage are £32.42

Are they worth the extra? If they are I'll happily pay it, just wouldn't bother if they aren't really any different.
Thanks all for the info, cleared it up for me!

Dan

 

[Muttley]

General service interval info (collated from several sources)

Oil change service every 10K
- change oil and filter
- check brake pads and disks

Full service every 20K or 12 months, whichever comes first
- change pollen filter
+ check lights, tyres, wipers, "fan belt", toothed belt, steering, driveshaft gaiters
+ levels in gearbox, coolant, hydraulic fluid, power steering, 4wd, screenwasher

Vehicle exterior
- Door retaining straps: grease and lubricate locking pins
- Sun roof: clean and lubricate guides

Not in service schedule but worth doing - lubricate bonnet lock.




Additional items
every 40K,
- change spark plugs (petrol engines)
- change air filter
- change fuel filter (diesel engines)

Not in schedule but worth considering: change HT leads (if you have them)

every 40K or two years
4WD cars, Haldex clutch
- change oil and filter

every 2 years
- change hydraulic fluid

every 60K or 5 years
- change toothed belt (diesel engines)

every 120K
- change toothed belt (petrol engines) (This may have been revised down recently)


The sump plug has a captive washer,but is so cheap from a dealer that it should definitely be replaced when you change the oil