they give small gains, it makes the valves open for slightly longer.
But ABF cams are pushing valves 1,2mm deeper than KR cams (ABF 10.8mm ; KR 9.6mm)
for example:
KR inlet cam
valve open at -3°
valve close at 35°
so 180°-3°+35°= 212° and cam pushing valve 9,6mm deep
ABF inlet cam
valve open at 1°
valve close 39°
so 180°+1°+39°= 220° and cam pushing valve 10,8mm deep
Schrick 268 inlet cam
valve open at 22°
valve close at 66°
so 180°+22°+66°= 268° an cam push valve 11,5mm deep
Mark, i hope you understand and know what will you get if KR cam open but also close valve earlier than ABF cam
I would never change ABF cams for KR one. For those who want power earlier i recommend: sell the valver and buy turbo or tdi
But ABF cams are pushing valves 1,2mm deeper than KR cams (ABF 10.8mm ; KR 9.6mm)
for example:
KR inlet cam
valve open at -3°
valve close at 35°
so 180°-3°+35°= 212° and cam pushing valve 9,6mm deep
ABF inlet cam
valve open at 1°
valve close 39°
so 180°+1°+39°= 220° and cam pushing valve 10,8mm deep
Schrick 268 inlet cam
valve open at 22°
valve close at 66°
so 180°+22°+66°= 268° an cam push valve 11,5mm deep
Mark, i hope you understand and know what will you get if KR cam open but also close valve earlier than ABF cam
They where standred kr cams yes.
so dont do it ?
only reason i ask, is i no few people with golfs ect, and they all said i will get slight gains?
and my mates got an abf lump, which he is goin to put in a carado with kr cams and charge it.
i would go de-cat, but the police are funny around here, and now getting new toys (sound testing equipment)..
my exhaust is already too loud, £30 fine, but i want standered back box so its hidden