hillbill1
Guest
Used dif reader to yours but same fault codes have had the AA out 3 times and have the same raterling from the engine
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Right, so I'm home now and had a chance to take a look at the car this afternoon.
Cleared all the fault codes and fitted four new coil packs - started the engine up and it's running exactly as before, very rough at idle and with a rattling/buzzing noise from the engine bay throughout the rev range.
Initially the only fault codes that were recorded are:
17961 - Barometric/Manifold Pressure Signals Implausible Correlation p1553
01314 - Comes up whenever the ECU logs a fault for the engine, I believe.
After taking it for a short (4 mile) drive the 17961 code has disappeared and is replaced with:
16407 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Position Actuator Malfunction
01314 is logged as before.
This is very similar to this thread: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=188171
It seems that the coilpacks weren't at fault (which is good as I can take them back!) but I'm currently thinking that it's possible that the exhaust cambelt has come loose? It's too dark now for me to take a look but that would probably explain the rattling noise and running problems?
As ever, any thoughts appreciated!
Cleared all the fault codes and fitted four new coil packs - started the engine up and it's running exactly as before, very rough at idle and with a rattling/buzzing noise from the engine bay throughout the rev range.
Initially the only fault codes that were recorded are:
17961 - Barometric/Manifold Pressure Signals Implausible Correlation p1553
01314 - Comes up whenever the ECU logs a fault for the engine, I believe.
After taking it for a short (4 mile) drive the 17961 code has disappeared and is replaced with:
16407 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Position Actuator Malfunction
01314 is logged as before.
This is very similar to this thread: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=188171
It seems that the coilpacks weren't at fault (which is good as I can take them back!) but I'm currently thinking that it's possible that the exhaust cambelt has come loose? It's too dark now for me to take a look but that would probably explain the rattling noise and running problems?
As ever, any thoughts appreciated!
I'd be tempted to see if you've dislodged & moved the wiring near the MAP sensor (1st code)
then try to find the wiring for the actuator & see if that's damaged.
Might be worth checking for water ingress into any connectors
then try to find the wiring for the actuator & see if that's damaged.
Might be worth checking for water ingress into any connectors
Well, car went for diagnostics at the dealers yesterday (much to my annoyance). Creedy had it spot on; the main cambelt tensioner has disintegrated... causing the dodgy running and the fault codes.
Ordered the cambelt kit which I picked up today so started work. The problem I've come across at the moment is that the auxiliary drive belt tensioner is stopping the lower cambelt cover from coming off but I'm hoping that once I undo the engine mount that'll give enough space to get it off.
I've heard conflicting things about the engine mount bolts; Haynes says they're single-use only but when I asked about them at the dealers they said that they do cam belts without replacing them and would have to order them in for me. Any experience on this one?
Also the bolt that holds the drive pulleys onto the crankshaft, does this need replacing?
Hopefully I should have the cam belts and tensioners replaced tomorrow and get the car running again! Will write a quick little guide for the 1.6 16v engine if anyone thinks it'd be useful?
So, got the new cam belts and tensioners fitted today; it runs but has a clicking noise coming from the drive belt end of the engine, the tension in both belts seems fine.
The Check Engine Light is on and the fault codes are:
17574 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 2: System too Rich
17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals: Implausible Correlation
17912 - Intake Air System Bypass Air determined or Intake Air system leak detected p1504
01314 - As before, due to faults in the engine module of the ECU.
Not really sure where to go from here, very annoying!
The Check Engine Light is on and the fault codes are:
17574 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 2: System too Rich
17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals: Implausible Correlation
17912 - Intake Air System Bypass Air determined or Intake Air system leak detected p1504
01314 - As before, due to faults in the engine module of the ECU.
Not really sure where to go from here, very annoying!
Well, it seems that those fault codes were left over (really should have thought about that!) and the tapping went away as soon as the engine warmed up. I've since done 200 miles without any fault codes so I reckon the job's a good-un!
Any ideas what could have caused the tapping (it seemed to be coming from the inlet cam area) just out of interest?
I didn't take any pics of the cambelt change but the Haynes manual is pretty much spot on actually. The only thing it doesn't say about is that the auxiliary drive belt tensioner makes it hard to remove the lower cambelt cover. It's not impossible but two people are needed and you have to be fairly brutal.
Thanks for the help people have provided!
Any ideas what could have caused the tapping (it seemed to be coming from the inlet cam area) just out of interest?
I didn't take any pics of the cambelt change but the Haynes manual is pretty much spot on actually. The only thing it doesn't say about is that the auxiliary drive belt tensioner makes it hard to remove the lower cambelt cover. It's not impossible but two people are needed and you have to be fairly brutal.
Thanks for the help people have provided!
Giant AC1
Guest
new belts but still rough
I've had this very same problem with my leon azd, the belts and pulleys were changed but the engine struggles upto about 4k and when it does get there,sounds very `tappetty'.I posted on another thread and a reply suggested`limp mode' could this be poss?
thanks in advance for any advice
I've had this very same problem with my leon azd, the belts and pulleys were changed but the engine struggles upto about 4k and when it does get there,sounds very `tappetty'.I posted on another thread and a reply suggested`limp mode' could this be poss?
thanks in advance for any advice
Presumably the fault code were cleared after the belts and tensioners were changed? If not then this could be causing problems.
I'm about 1000 miles on from my problems now and the engine's still pulling fine and no unusaual noises. I've still got a Check Engine Light regarding my cat-converter but I'll make a seperate thread for that at some point...
I'm about 1000 miles on from my problems now and the engine's still pulling fine and no unusaual noises. I've still got a Check Engine Light regarding my cat-converter but I'll make a seperate thread for that at some point...
Giant AC1
Guest
much better!
turned out it was'nt limp mode ,put it in to local (inde-tech)who said the belts had slipped,probably from the broken pulley,and whoever replaced the belts had put the new one's on as they'ed found em,incidentally,i told them about a flat spot it had before the pulley went south,they took the downpipe off to find the primary cat in the manifold (mani-cat?) blocked and started to disintegrate!i now have a straight-through manifold (hammer and chisel)and anicely free revving engine,just dreadingif it fails emisions come m.o.t. time.
turned out it was'nt limp mode ,put it in to local (inde-tech
)who said the belts had slipped,probably from the broken pulley,and whoever replaced the belts had put the new one's on as they'ed found em,incidentally,i told them about a flat spot it had before the pulley went south,they took the downpipe off to find the primary cat in the manifold (mani-cat?) blocked and started to disintegrate!i now have a straight-through manifold (hammer and chisel)and anicely free revving engine,just dreadingif it fails emisions come m.o.t. time.
robbie2008
Guest
my car doesnt idle roughbut jus cuts out sumtimes warm or cold when ya put the engine into nuetral only sumtimes but apart from that she is fine wat could this be a guy said there is a relay or sumthing under the steering wheel??? also she can take a few times to start warm or cold lol 1.6 leons are lovely cars but bloddy hand fulls aswell
Hi on my mk1 seat Leon 1.8t.. I'm not loosing any water of over heating but on the odd occasion it seems to get abit Mayo looking on the oil cap noting on dipstick? Anything to worry about? Thanks
No nothing to worry about, completely normal especially in the winter and if you do lots of short journeys. Condensation condenses on the cap and mixes with the oil residue on there.
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