Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)

[tufftybloke]

I had full leather interior in my s3 210 and I searched and searched for the baige/white suede and leather interior!! Absolutely lush!! Not keen on the blue suede though :|


Cupra R 225 -80mm Jetex Cone -De Cat -Forge Boost Pipe -More to come http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=380366

Its a bugger to keep clean... drivers seat is inherently 'darker' than the rest (nobody really comes in the car with me lol)

I was lucky that the car was pretty clean to start with so easier to keep that way...

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Car looks mint, seats look immaxulate

 

[Pete225]

Its a bugger to keep clean... drivers seat is inherently 'darker' than the rest (nobody really comes in the car with me lol)

I was lucky that the car was pretty clean to start with so easier to keep that way...

<tuffty/>

I can imagine, they look awesome though small price to pay I'd say


Cupra R 225 -80mm Jetex Cone -De Cat -Forge Boost Pipe -More to come http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=380366

 

[tufftybloke]

Small update...

Block arrived back Thursday from the re-bore, crank was picked up today for doweling... I had the block chemically cleaned and so painted it to stop it going rusty...

All being well the crank will be back for next weekend too so I can start the dry build to plastigauge the bearings and check the clearances on the squirters...

Have found a place that will do the balancing so need to chat to them about times etc... hoping to drop it all off in the morning and loiter somewhere until they are ready to pick up assuming they can do a days turnaround... will see how it goes...

<tuffty/>

 

[wild willy]

I like the direction your going with the car. The balanced crank should make for a nice reving engine is it lightened also.

 

[tufftybloke]

I like the direction your going with the car. The balanced crank should make for a nice reving engine is it lightened also.

Wasn't planning on... I am still using a DMF and plan too for the foreseeable future so lightening seemed a little pointless... I did consider knife edging but it concerned me about the amount of material that would be removed and how it would balance up removing material opposite the counter weights... on a race engine when you are chasing numbers then fine but I want this to be a solid reliable engine... I already have plenty of power, its not like I am looking for more..

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Crank came back from being doweled...

Still waiting on a set of rods to arrive so used a std 20mm rod to check for squirter clearance... first I fitted the ARP mains studs...

...any wondering why I am using ARP over a set of OE bolts, in the pic below we have an ARP stud, OE bolt and what happens to OE bolts... not the first failure I have seen and was enough to persuade my that at my power level its a worth while investment...

Mains caps with bearings fitted and assembly lubed... note that cap 4 (going right to left) has the same grooved bearing as the block bearings... from what I understand this is to do with oil pressure control as the no 4 cap is adjacent to the oil pump feed

Block bearings in and lubed...

Fitted an oil squirter for the test... this is one from the K03 engines... I will be getting ones from the K04 engines as they have a larger oil feed hole

Crank in...

Fitting caps...

...don't forget the thrust washers...

...in and just tight (not torqued) enough to do the test...

Piston fitted to old std rod (doesn't feel right LOL)...

The CP pistions have a little cutout for the squirter... all seems good

Thats it now until the rods come... will need to hone the small ends as required then it can all go off for balancing

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Looking good! Must say that std rod looks out of place in that piston haha, whens your rods due to arrive? Which ones you gone for?

 

[tufftybloke]

Looking good! Must say that std rod looks out of place in that piston haha, whens your rods due to arrive? Which ones you gone for?

I have IE h-beams arriving next week... (rifle drilled of course)... all being well the bottom end should be off for balancing friday

<tuffty/>

 

[Pimped up vario]

That's a dirty build. I'm salivating. I take it if it's just tightened and no more that the bearing materials won't be disturbed/deformed and then ok for reassembly when you get your other parts. Is that a bracket holding the bearing end cap to assist putting it into place so as not to damage a trust bearing?

 

[tufftybloke]

That's a dirty build. I'm salivating. I take it if it's just tightened and no more that the bearing materials won't be disturbed/deformed and then ok for reassembly when you get your other parts. Is that a bracket holding the bearing end cap to assist putting it into place so as not to damage a trust bearing?

No point in going to final torque and putting undue stress on stuff until I need to and was adequate for testing the clearances...

Not sure what you mean by bracket?

<tuffty/>

 

[Pimped up vario]

Ignore me on the bracket thing. I misread the images. It looked like the bracket arm that holds the engine block was attached to the bearing end cap. It's my eye's. I got a £400 tax rebate this morning so got any tips for toys.

 

[tufftybloke]

More gratuitous parts shots...

New water pump (I have already lacquered this lol), manual tensioner setup, cam belt, new oil squirters, stat, IE ARP cam pulley bolt and EKagrip cam pulley friction disk

I need to make a spacer for the manual tensioner as the 20v one sticks out further from the head on transverse engine setups...

Fitted the new oil squirters (torqued to 27nm)

Fitted the water pump, new crank seal into front housing and modified tensioner damper

Moved onto checking the pins in the IE rods... the pins need to slide nicely in the small ends... not loose but a small amount of tension when lightly oiled (not build lube)... I had to very lightly hone a couple of the rods until I was happy

One rod looked like it had been knocked when packed and this needed a little more attention with gentle wet and drying to remove the raised part of the bearing from the damage... something to be aware of...

...sorted...

Thats all the rotating assembly parts ready for balancing... will be dropping them off this Friday and I am told they should be ready for the following Friday...

I hope to have the head off the car next weekend (other work permitting)... I have something planned for this that requires it to be off and away for a few weeks... this will at least give me the chance to pull parts I need off the old bottom end to be cleaned, painted and fitted to the new bottom end...

Happy days

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Yay!... got my bits back from the balancers... awesome service from Basset Down Balancing Services..

Turns out the pistons were **** on and needed nothing doing to them, the rods needed just a little off them

..as did the crank...

Now the bottom end can be put together

<tuffty/>

 

[m0rk]

It's a black art that balancing

 

[tufftybloke]

It's a black art that balancing

Yeah but so worth doing


And so it begins....

<tuffty/>

 

[wild willy]

That engine will be purring like a cat when she's fired up. Very impressed with your small end honing tool, I didn't realise they made the that small.

 

[Pimped up vario]

That's cool, word doesn't do it justice, that you can see the honing lines at both angles. Is that you checking the ring end gap in the bore to compare against the tolerances?

I was looking up general stuff about the n75 and dvs and boost leaks and noticed a posts from yourself advising the OP from 2010 or so with a pic of the s3 in the avatar on another forum, forget which one. You seem to know your stuff alright.

 

[tufftybloke]

That engine will be purring like a cat when she's fired up. Very impressed with your small end honing tool, I didn't realise they made the that small.

Lets hope so Carl

The tool is for honing brake parts, really useful as most aftermarket rods seem tight on OE pins...

That's cool, word doesn't do it justice, that you can see the honing lines at both angles. Is that you checking the ring end gap in the bore to compare against the tolerances?

I was looking up general stuff about the n75 and dvs and boost leaks and noticed a posts from yourself advising the OP from 2010 or so with a pic of the s3 in the avatar on another forum, forget which one. You seem to know your stuff alright.

Yeah... gapping the rings is a soulless task but needs to be done right and takes ages... will be checking them at the bottom of the bore too but as its a fresh re-bore it should be fine... its only on worn bores that they vary a bit

I spend most of my time on Audi Sport.net so I suspect thats where you have seen me..

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Made a start by removing the head...

Tomorrows job is to strip the head ready to be sent off for porting

<tuffty/>