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Circular Polisher Guide
This simple step-by-step guide will explain how to use your circular polisher to remove paint imperfections and rapidly improve the quality of your finish. Keep in mind, circular polishers are recommended only for professional detailers or experienced hobbyists due the increased risk of PAINT BURN. If you are inexperienced with machine polishing, start with a dual action polisher and become familiar with the process. Once you become comfortable, graduate to the circular polisher.
What is a circular polisher?
A circular polisher, is sometimes referred to as a rotary or high-speed polisher. It’s called “circular” because the head spins on one axis. It spins typically from 600-3000 RPMs. This single motion allows a circular polisher to level the clear coat that surrounds a scratch so that the scratch’s “edges” disappear. Professionals who want to completely remove a deep scratch must use a circular polisher.
The heat is on! Circular polishers get much hotter than dual action polishers because the pad is spinning at a high speed. You MUST keep a circular polisher moving at all times so this heat doesn’t concentrate on one spot. It will burn through the paint in seconds.
You can minimize the risk by practicing on scrap car panels before you attempt any work on your own vehicle. You can pick up old parts at your local junk yard for a fee, but it’s definitely cheaper than repainting your vehicle!
Popular models of circular polishers are thePorter Cable 7428, the Makita 9227C, DeWalt 849, and the Hitachi SP18VA 7".
A Few Facts about Clearcoat
So you may understand the thickness of clear coat, think of the cellophane wrapper on a pack of cigarettes. Remove it and press the two sides together. This thickness represents the depth of clear coat that protects your pigment layer. The outer surface of the clearcoat is the “hardest” and “densest” and is impregnated with the critical UV protection. This surface, assaulted by bugs, bird droppings and acid rain gets worn away revealing the softer underlying clearcoat which provides less resilience and protection.
The Paint Facts - Typical Industry Paint Thickness Specs.
E-Coat 1.3 mil - Electrocoat is an anticorrosion coat applied to both sides of the steel to prevent corrosion (rust).
Surface Primer 0.7 mil - Initial protection layer with texture to assist the pigment layer in bonding to the metal beneath.
Base Coat 0.6 mil The basecoat is usually 0.5 to 1 mil thick (1,000 mils equal one inch).
Clear Coat 1.9 mil - The clearcoat provides gloss for that "wet look," plus physical protection from the elements, including ultraviolet rays. The clear coat is usually between 1.5 and 2 mils thick.
Polishing Tips
Keep the speed slow. Use your circular polisher at its slowest speed setting. This means typically between 1000 and 1200 RPM. Unless you’re planning on refinishing a vehicle, there’s no need to ever exceed 1500 RPM.
Another equally critical factor in preventing PAINT BURN is keeping the polisher in constant motion to reduce the build up of heat. Heat build up is especially critical toward edges and corners where the paint is thinnest. It is less problematic in the center of large panels.
Work the pad perfectly flat against the paint or with the back of the pad tilted slightly upward to avoid dragging it on the paint.
This guide will give you a good start, but you will develop your own techniques as you become more comfortable with the machine.
What problems can a circular polisher correct?
A circular polisher can remove almost any scratches or swirls and most oxidation, as long as they do not penetrate beneath the clear coat. A good way of assessing a scratch is to run your fingernail over it. If your fingernail catches in the scratch; that generally means it is too deep to be removed without professional help. Scratches and swirls that extend through to the color coat will require repainting or a touch-up at the very least. Do not attempt to remove these scratches because you can remove the entire clear coat, resulting in paint system failure.
What accessories do I need?
Your circular polisher probably came with a 7” backing plate. You may also choose to buy a 6” backing plate, or a 7” Flexible Backing Plate. The backing plate has Velcro® brand “hook and loop fasteners” on the bottom to hold the foam pads in place as you polish.
You will also need an assortment of foam pads. Pads come in five varieties: light cutting, cutting, polishing, finishing, and finessing foam.
NOTE: When choosing a backing plate, always use a plate that is smaller than the pad. For example, use an 8.5” foam pad with a 7” backing plate. Use 7.5” foam pads with 6” backing plate. You want a generous lip of foam around the backing plate to prevent accidental contact with the paint.
Below are listed Lake Country foam pads and their intended uses:
Cutting Pad: This pad is the most abrasive of all. It is intended to remove moderate to heavy oxidation, swirl marks, and most scratches. Use it with compounds and polishes on older vehicles with neglected paint. This is Lake Country’s yellow pad.
Light Cutting Pad: This is an all-around swirl removal pad. It will remove or greatly improve light to moderate swirls and oxidation. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. This is Lake Country’s orange pad.
Polishing Pad: Use this pad with any pre-wax cleaner, microfine polish, or cleaner wax. This pad has very light cleaning ability and will refine your paint to a glossy shine. This is Lake Country’s white pad.
Finishing Pad: This pad can be used to apply glazes, waxes, and sealants. It is totally nonabrasive. This is Lake Country’s gray pad.
Finessing (Final Finishing) Pad: Use this nonabrasive pad to apply a top coat or glaze. This pad is very soft and is useful in final buffing. This is Lake Country’s blue pad.
How do I remove swirls and scratches with a circular polisher?
I. Compounding and swirl removal
Compounds are the most aggressive polishes and they’re used for intense paint correction, like heavy oxidation and severe scratches and swirls.
Swirl Removers are a type of compound; generally are less intense and many are quite user-friendly. Check out Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover for a one-step compound/swirl remover that removes a huge range of imperfections when used with multiple types of foam pads.
Use the cutting pad or light cutting pad when applying a compound or swirl remover. Compounds may be labeled as such, or they may be labeled as swirl removers. Choose a light cutting or polishing pad and a fine swirl remover for light to moderate imperfections and a heavier cut swirl remover and cutting pad for moderate to severe blemishes. Always start with the least abrasive product and pad option. Upgrade to the cutting pad if necessary.
Apply the product directly to the pad. Put the pad onto the surface to be compounded and spread the compound with the machine turned off. Set the machine at 1000 RPM and turn it on. Work in a horizontal figure eight pattern no more than 18” wide. Then make a vertical figure eight pattern over the area. Work the compound in well and keep the pad moving at all times.
When your compound begins to dry or disappear, turn off the machine and lift it off the paint. Mist the surface with a mixture of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol. Buff away the residue with a soft microfiber towel and inspect your results. If you are not satisfied, repeat the process with the same product or a slightly more aggressive product.
If you still see no results, upgrade to the cutting pad.
It is not necessary to compound your entire vehicle. Work on the problem areas only and stay away from corners and edges where the paint is thinner.
Compounding may leave a light haze. This is normal. Polishing will remove the haze and restore the shine.
II. Polishing
Polishing improves the smoothness and gloss of the paint. Use a finishing polish is you’ve just compounded, such as Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. If your paint is already in great shape, you can use something without abrasives, like Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer.
Use a polishing pad with a finishing polish or a pre-wax cleaner. This step refines your paint after compounding and restores the shine to dull paint.
It may be helpful to mist the pad with a spray sealant, such as Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, to make application easier.
Apply polish directly to the surface. Spread the polish with the machine turned off. Place the pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on at 1000 RPM. Spread the polish in a figure eight pattern as above. Turn the machine off as the polish dries.
Check your work by spraying the surface with plain water and wiping the area with a microfiber towel. If it is still hazy, continue polishing. If it is glossy and smooth, move on to finishing.
III. Final Steps
Though a circular polisher can be used to apply waxes and sealants, many detailers opt to apply these products by hand to avoid any unnecessary risk to the paint. If you do wish to use the polisher, follow these simple tips:
Use the finishing pad to apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Apply the product to your pad and work at a very low speed. Cover the surface evenly.
Apply the sealant to the entire vehicle and wait 30-45 minutes before buffing if off. Once you’ve applied the sealant to the entire vehicle, enough time has probably elapsed so that you can begin buffing where you first applied the sealant.
The circular polisher should have removed all surface scratches, swirls, and blemishes. If you have some remaining scratches, they are likely too deep to be corrected without professional attention.
For general polishing and buffing, you may find it easier to use a dual action polisher. Read our guide on dual action polishing to see which machine best suits your needs and skill level.
This simple step-by-step guide will explain how to use your circular polisher to remove paint imperfections and rapidly improve the quality of your finish. Keep in mind, circular polishers are recommended only for professional detailers or experienced hobbyists due the increased risk of PAINT BURN. If you are inexperienced with machine polishing, start with a dual action polisher and become familiar with the process. Once you become comfortable, graduate to the circular polisher.
What is a circular polisher?
A circular polisher, is sometimes referred to as a rotary or high-speed polisher. It’s called “circular” because the head spins on one axis. It spins typically from 600-3000 RPMs. This single motion allows a circular polisher to level the clear coat that surrounds a scratch so that the scratch’s “edges” disappear. Professionals who want to completely remove a deep scratch must use a circular polisher.
The heat is on! Circular polishers get much hotter than dual action polishers because the pad is spinning at a high speed. You MUST keep a circular polisher moving at all times so this heat doesn’t concentrate on one spot. It will burn through the paint in seconds.
You can minimize the risk by practicing on scrap car panels before you attempt any work on your own vehicle. You can pick up old parts at your local junk yard for a fee, but it’s definitely cheaper than repainting your vehicle!
Popular models of circular polishers are thePorter Cable 7428, the Makita 9227C, DeWalt 849, and the Hitachi SP18VA 7".
A Few Facts about Clearcoat
So you may understand the thickness of clear coat, think of the cellophane wrapper on a pack of cigarettes. Remove it and press the two sides together. This thickness represents the depth of clear coat that protects your pigment layer. The outer surface of the clearcoat is the “hardest” and “densest” and is impregnated with the critical UV protection. This surface, assaulted by bugs, bird droppings and acid rain gets worn away revealing the softer underlying clearcoat which provides less resilience and protection.
The Paint Facts - Typical Industry Paint Thickness Specs.
E-Coat 1.3 mil - Electrocoat is an anticorrosion coat applied to both sides of the steel to prevent corrosion (rust).
Surface Primer 0.7 mil - Initial protection layer with texture to assist the pigment layer in bonding to the metal beneath.
Base Coat 0.6 mil The basecoat is usually 0.5 to 1 mil thick (1,000 mils equal one inch).
Clear Coat 1.9 mil - The clearcoat provides gloss for that "wet look," plus physical protection from the elements, including ultraviolet rays. The clear coat is usually between 1.5 and 2 mils thick.
Polishing Tips
Keep the speed slow. Use your circular polisher at its slowest speed setting. This means typically between 1000 and 1200 RPM. Unless you’re planning on refinishing a vehicle, there’s no need to ever exceed 1500 RPM.
Another equally critical factor in preventing PAINT BURN is keeping the polisher in constant motion to reduce the build up of heat. Heat build up is especially critical toward edges and corners where the paint is thinnest. It is less problematic in the center of large panels.
Work the pad perfectly flat against the paint or with the back of the pad tilted slightly upward to avoid dragging it on the paint.
This guide will give you a good start, but you will develop your own techniques as you become more comfortable with the machine.
What problems can a circular polisher correct?
A circular polisher can remove almost any scratches or swirls and most oxidation, as long as they do not penetrate beneath the clear coat. A good way of assessing a scratch is to run your fingernail over it. If your fingernail catches in the scratch; that generally means it is too deep to be removed without professional help. Scratches and swirls that extend through to the color coat will require repainting or a touch-up at the very least. Do not attempt to remove these scratches because you can remove the entire clear coat, resulting in paint system failure.
What accessories do I need?
Your circular polisher probably came with a 7” backing plate. You may also choose to buy a 6” backing plate, or a 7” Flexible Backing Plate. The backing plate has Velcro® brand “hook and loop fasteners” on the bottom to hold the foam pads in place as you polish.
You will also need an assortment of foam pads. Pads come in five varieties: light cutting, cutting, polishing, finishing, and finessing foam.
NOTE: When choosing a backing plate, always use a plate that is smaller than the pad. For example, use an 8.5” foam pad with a 7” backing plate. Use 7.5” foam pads with 6” backing plate. You want a generous lip of foam around the backing plate to prevent accidental contact with the paint.
Below are listed Lake Country foam pads and their intended uses:
Cutting Pad: This pad is the most abrasive of all. It is intended to remove moderate to heavy oxidation, swirl marks, and most scratches. Use it with compounds and polishes on older vehicles with neglected paint. This is Lake Country’s yellow pad.
Light Cutting Pad: This is an all-around swirl removal pad. It will remove or greatly improve light to moderate swirls and oxidation. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. This is Lake Country’s orange pad.
Polishing Pad: Use this pad with any pre-wax cleaner, microfine polish, or cleaner wax. This pad has very light cleaning ability and will refine your paint to a glossy shine. This is Lake Country’s white pad.
Finishing Pad: This pad can be used to apply glazes, waxes, and sealants. It is totally nonabrasive. This is Lake Country’s gray pad.
Finessing (Final Finishing) Pad: Use this nonabrasive pad to apply a top coat or glaze. This pad is very soft and is useful in final buffing. This is Lake Country’s blue pad.
How do I remove swirls and scratches with a circular polisher?
I. Compounding and swirl removal
Compounds are the most aggressive polishes and they’re used for intense paint correction, like heavy oxidation and severe scratches and swirls.
Swirl Removers are a type of compound; generally are less intense and many are quite user-friendly. Check out Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover for a one-step compound/swirl remover that removes a huge range of imperfections when used with multiple types of foam pads.
Use the cutting pad or light cutting pad when applying a compound or swirl remover. Compounds may be labeled as such, or they may be labeled as swirl removers. Choose a light cutting or polishing pad and a fine swirl remover for light to moderate imperfections and a heavier cut swirl remover and cutting pad for moderate to severe blemishes. Always start with the least abrasive product and pad option. Upgrade to the cutting pad if necessary.
Apply the product directly to the pad. Put the pad onto the surface to be compounded and spread the compound with the machine turned off. Set the machine at 1000 RPM and turn it on. Work in a horizontal figure eight pattern no more than 18” wide. Then make a vertical figure eight pattern over the area. Work the compound in well and keep the pad moving at all times.
When your compound begins to dry or disappear, turn off the machine and lift it off the paint. Mist the surface with a mixture of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol. Buff away the residue with a soft microfiber towel and inspect your results. If you are not satisfied, repeat the process with the same product or a slightly more aggressive product.
If you still see no results, upgrade to the cutting pad.
It is not necessary to compound your entire vehicle. Work on the problem areas only and stay away from corners and edges where the paint is thinner.
Compounding may leave a light haze. This is normal. Polishing will remove the haze and restore the shine.
II. Polishing
Polishing improves the smoothness and gloss of the paint. Use a finishing polish is you’ve just compounded, such as Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. If your paint is already in great shape, you can use something without abrasives, like Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer.
Use a polishing pad with a finishing polish or a pre-wax cleaner. This step refines your paint after compounding and restores the shine to dull paint.
It may be helpful to mist the pad with a spray sealant, such as Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, to make application easier.
Apply polish directly to the surface. Spread the polish with the machine turned off. Place the pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on at 1000 RPM. Spread the polish in a figure eight pattern as above. Turn the machine off as the polish dries.
Check your work by spraying the surface with plain water and wiping the area with a microfiber towel. If it is still hazy, continue polishing. If it is glossy and smooth, move on to finishing.
III. Final Steps
Though a circular polisher can be used to apply waxes and sealants, many detailers opt to apply these products by hand to avoid any unnecessary risk to the paint. If you do wish to use the polisher, follow these simple tips:
Use the finishing pad to apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Apply the product to your pad and work at a very low speed. Cover the surface evenly.
Apply the sealant to the entire vehicle and wait 30-45 minutes before buffing if off. Once you’ve applied the sealant to the entire vehicle, enough time has probably elapsed so that you can begin buffing where you first applied the sealant.
The circular polisher should have removed all surface scratches, swirls, and blemishes. If you have some remaining scratches, they are likely too deep to be corrected without professional attention.
For general polishing and buffing, you may find it easier to use a dual action polisher. Read our guide on dual action polishing to see which machine best suits your needs and skill level.
