1.2 Throttle body cleaning guide

[suditaliano]

You can get, or get ordered in any spare part from your local Seat dealer, in this case, a VW or Skoda dealer could get the part for you as they all use that engine code.

Barometric error code, you could remove the MAP sensor and clean it as well, it will be secured into the inlet manifold, at the LHS side - looking in, ie the drivers side of the car, by two screws. Once the screws are out you just pull it out, slight resistance due to its captive O ring seal, which you can reuse as you normally can with the rubber O ring seal on the TB - although I would never "poo poo" anyone saying that that O ring should be replaced (I replaced mine but the original one looked okay).

Great tips, very well explained. The O-Ring looked ok. Haynes workshop manual said to replace the O-ring. But...... i don't think its a must.will report back

 

[RUM4MO]

Have you had a proper search on the web for this, I looked using "ENGINE FAULT CODE P0106" and found a few, including maybe two concerning your 1.2 engine, easiest fix seemed to be a cracked/broken air pipe - the one attached to the underside of the "engine cover/filter", the worst one seemed to be timing chain/tensioner issues. Do you know if your engine has been upgraded to get the later/better chain, tensioner and damper/guides?

How frequently does this code occur, I seem to remember getting that one once in a blue moon on my wife's Polo 9N late 2002 1.4 BBY engine, I eventually replaced the MAP sensor with an earlier model used one from ebay - stupid I know, and it seemed to improve things generally, though, one or two years later, I should really swop them back. My main issues were "pinking" so probably just swopped the MAP sensor to eliminate that being a problem!

If I can remember correctly, you should be able to remove the MAP sensor with the cable still connected, and give it a good spray/clean using carb or brake cleaner, as it will be gummed up with that crap that the hot exhaust gases (from the EGR) help to form in the inlet manifold.

 

[suditaliano]

Have you had a proper search on the web for this, I looked using "ENGINE FAULT CODE P0106" and found a few, including maybe two concerning your 1.2 engine, easiest fix seemed to be a cracked/broken air pipe - the one attached to the underside of the "engine cover/filter", the worst one seemed to be timing chain/tensioner issues. Do you know if your engine has been upgraded to get the later/better chain, tensioner and damper/guides?

How frequently does this code occur, I seem to remember getting that one once in a blue moon on my wife's Polo 9N late 2002 1.4 BBY engine, I eventually replaced the MAP sensor with an earlier model used one from ebay - stupid I know, and it seemed to improve things generally, though, one or two years later, I should really swop them back. My main issues were "pinking" so probably just swopped the MAP sensor to eliminate that being a problem!

If I can remember correctly, you should be able to remove the MAP sensor with the cable still connected, and give it a good spray/clean using carb or brake cleaner, as it will be gummed up with that crap that the hot exhaust gases (from the EGR) help to form in the inlet manifold.

P0106 only came after cleaninng throttle body. I think some dirt went on MAP SENSOR. i am not sure to be honest about the tensioner for the timing chain. But a mechanic told me not to worry as a light will come on when goes bad. Not sure now. As i got the car only last year i am just starting to look around for fixes. i am sure i will get there soon too Haynes manual is good for a newbie like me. There is a section to open and check the tensioner and all.

 

[RUM4MO]

This only started after you cleaned the TB, it has been said that to get best results from cleaning the TB, you need to perform "basic settings" using either the dealer tool (VS-----) or VCDS, that is certainly what I did after cleaning my TB. You are correct about the Haynes repair manuals, they are useful for more than just "newbies" - I always try to get one for any new car I buy as soon as they are available. Maybe take another look at that small rubber pipe, although in theory, the MAP sensor should ignore any "upstream" air leaks as it is located in the inlet manifold, though RossTech WiKi does list an air leak as a possible reason for this so I should not dismiss it.

 

[suditaliano]

This only started after you cleaned the TB, it has been said that to get best results from cleaning the TB, you need to perform "basic settings" using either the dealer tool (VS-----) or VCDS, that is certainly what I did after cleaning my TB. You are correct about the Haynes repair manuals, they are useful for more than just "newbies" - I always try to get one for any new car I buy as soon as they are available. Maybe take another look at that small rubber pipe, although in theory, the MAP sensor should ignore any "upstream" air leaks as it is located in the inlet manifold, though RossTech WiKi does list an air leak as a possible reason for this so I should not dismiss it.

Hi. not that i want to against your thought but i also read that the throttle body mus be re setted only when replaced with a new unit. If the old is re mounted it will learn the settings again stored in ECU. It did happen with me. At the start was a bit rough.After driving approx 100 miles all good again

so i went for a over 200 miles irish roads trip . Was some motorway and country side roads where i could cruise in peace. All emission cycles were completed and all passed. I didn't clean The MAP sensor but sprayed the TB cleaning in all pipes. One pipe ( bottom right of intake) was cracked indeed. I repaired and code did not come up. Finger crossed will last.

 

[RUM4MO]

Sounds good enough! My advice about performing basic settings was given just in case the ECU could not or did not relearn the new end stop voltage values, for me, having VCDS means that I will always perform basic settings after doing that work, although I have heard that all you need to do is switch ignition off, don't start engine, wait a minute of so and you will hear the TB flap being driven to both end limits - so maybe that is good enough. I remember that Ford used KAM which stood for keep alive memory, bizarrely for me, that means if you disconnect the battery, the car then needs driven through varying duty/demand conditions to relearn its optimum settings - I thought that it would mean the opposite!

Hopefully the cracked pipe was the root cause of your problem.

Actually, the good think about performing basic settings on a few of these smart units is that VCDS and I'd reckon the VS VAG dealer tool will tell you right away if the procedure was completed successfully - sometimes it does not get "good" values first time.

 

[suditaliano]

Sounds good enough! My advice about performing basic settings was given just in case the ECU could not or did not relearn the new end stop voltage values, for me, having VCDS means that I will always perform basic settings after doing that work, although I have heard that all you need to do is switch ignition off, don't start engine, wait a minute of so and you will hear the TB flap being driven to both end limits - so maybe that is good enough. I remember that Ford used KAM which stood for keep alive memory, bizarrely for me, that means if you disconnect the battery, the car then needs driven through varying duty/demand conditions to relearn its optimum settings - I thought that it would mean the opposite!

Hopefully the cracked pipe was the root cause of your problem.

Actually, the good think about performing basic settings on a few of these smart units is that VCDS and I'd reckon the VS VAG dealer tool will tell you right away if the procedure was completed successfully - sometimes it does not get "good" values first time.

Now that I think about, the TB settled after a while. I do feel that when I rev the car up to 2500 RPM and release the pedal the Revs do not go down to 700ish very quickly but it stays around 1000 that half second extra.

I am looking for an original cable of Ross-Tech just not sure waht to do next in order to access the TB allignment. Will the 99$ registered version allow me that?
DO I have an option to read immobilizer and other functions then ?

Thanks

 

[RUM4MO]

First, it might take a few days/trips for the ECU to optimise any changes - I think that after I cleaned my TB, I thought that I might have damaged it by putting a bit of pressure on the vane/flap while cleaning it. The engine felt like it was a bit "weak" at low throttle and light load, but that changed with time.

If you don't like how it now runs, maybe try another adaption, ie switch on the ignition and wait for the TB to "do its thing" before starting the engine, that might work.

What exactly can VCDS-LITE do, sorry but I can't say, does the RossTech site not give enough info, also, list what you know you want to do and ask Gendan, they are very good about answering questions truthfully. Also, I think that there is a VAG-COM / VCDS forum on this site, you should get good answers there from people that have started with or only ever bought the "LITE" version.

 

[suditaliano]

Thanks.

I ordered the cable from Gendan. I wil look in to it to allign the TB when I register the software.
Today i found a post which gave instruction on how to reset the TB.

1; Park
2 switch key on ( not engine )
3 press accelerator all down for 3 seconds
4 turn key back and release foot
5 wait 2 minutes
remove key put back in and start car.

The result was that the TB now is "unstable " probably as you said it will re-learn again.

Thanks for all your support , you shed soe light on it for me

 

[mickster69]

nice right up think ill do mine and the egr