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jezsidewalk
Guest
yes, i noticed an improvement, obviously you would have to time it but, before i couldnt beat my mates focus st to 60, afterwoods beat him not too shabbily!!
I have a stage 2 LCR, Hideous 0-60 I would imagine, lack of an LSD system means all I get is spin in 1,2 & 3rd gear.. I lost out to an Integra Type R today, mainly due to my wheelspin, the Leons are rank at launches..
Clocked my LFR's 0-62 mph (0-100 km/h) as following:
Stock, ESP on: 7.9 sec (summer, heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch)
Stock, ESP off: 7.2-7.6 sec (summer, heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch)
Remap only, ~185bhp on dyno, very flat power curve from 3500 to 7000 rpm: 6,68 sec (summer, heated tyres, dashboard accelerometer)
Remap only, ~185bhp on dyno, very flat power curve from 3500 to 7000 rpm: ~6,6 sec (summer, heated tyres, cold SMIC, drag race in parallel with a Civic Type R EP3, which has 6,6 sec official factory figure)
Current configuration, 227-230bhp on dyno, ~220bhp from 4700 to 7000 rpm: 6.42 sec (heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch) to 6.82 sec (cold tyres, wintery conditions, average number from 10 launches, stopwatch).
Whatever I do and despite the almost 50 bhp earned through the mods it seems very hard to get figures below 6.5 sec and close to impossibility to go below 6.0 sec in a K03S equipped LFR
~Nautilus
Stock, ESP on: 7.9 sec (summer, heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch)
Stock, ESP off: 7.2-7.6 sec (summer, heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch)
Remap only, ~185bhp on dyno, very flat power curve from 3500 to 7000 rpm: 6,68 sec (summer, heated tyres, dashboard accelerometer)
Remap only, ~185bhp on dyno, very flat power curve from 3500 to 7000 rpm: ~6,6 sec (summer, heated tyres, cold SMIC, drag race in parallel with a Civic Type R EP3, which has 6,6 sec official factory figure)
Current configuration, 227-230bhp on dyno, ~220bhp from 4700 to 7000 rpm: 6.42 sec (heated tyres, average number from a few launches, stopwatch) to 6.82 sec (cold tyres, wintery conditions, average number from 10 launches, stopwatch).
Whatever I do and despite the almost 50 bhp earned through the mods it seems very hard to get figures below 6.5 sec and close to impossibility to go below 6.0 sec in a K03S equipped LFR
~Nautilus
Last edited:
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
On my lcr with a recent rr print out on standard map of 200 bhp an 210 lbs ft torque the fasters i done it was in 6 seconds flat but this is going off the liquid gauge, not sure how accurate these are though,
ive got diff fitted as well as lots of other mods and also sach clutch so launching at 3k was ok
ive got diff fitted as well as lots of other mods and also sach clutch so launching at 3k was ok
was clocked at GTI INTERNATIONAL last year at 5.9 seconds. i have a face lift cupra CC stage 1 with a few extras, was very supprised
Judging by the official 0-60 mph / 0-100 km/h figures other manufacturers give for their stock models, the vast majority of cars having 220-230bhp and 1300-1400kg, from Fiat Coupe 20V to Alfa 147 GTA run around 6.5 seconds.
There may be lucky figures in the 6.0-6.4 sec range due to better power curves and better gearbox ratios, or less lucky figures in the 6.7-6.8 sec range, but the average still lies around 6.5 sec.
Guess it needs some more bhp to go below 6.0.
~Nautilus
There may be lucky figures in the 6.0-6.4 sec range due to better power curves and better gearbox ratios, or less lucky figures in the 6.7-6.8 sec range, but the average still lies around 6.5 sec.
Guess it needs some more bhp to go below 6.0.
~Nautilus
It's all down to tyres, stick some r888's or VReds on and that will make launches better, get the car rolling and 1st fully clamped then give it some! revving then dumping the clutch not only ruins the clutch but lights the tyres up.
Sent from my IPhone when I should be doing Work!!
Sent from my IPhone when I should be doing Work!!
Bigyin1314
Guest
0-60
how much tyre you have on road to grip thus wider tyers; some just pure hp & tq (of course AWD with haldex race controller certainly helps)
a getable number for 0-60 for a MK1 Leon is 5.8 seconds if I am off the mark let me know?
like I said I am learning more about these awesome cars...... as we have a 1.8t MK1 TT 225
at 0-60 in 4.7. A Porsche Carrea(SP) 911 could not pull away and we in fact went around him
at about a 165 mph and it had a lot more to go that was on the K04 turbo.......
how much tyre you have on road to grip thus wider tyers; some just pure hp & tq (of course AWD with haldex race controller certainly helps)
a getable number for 0-60 for a MK1 Leon is 5.8 seconds if I am off the mark let me know?
like I said I am learning more about these awesome cars...... as we have a 1.8t MK1 TT 225
at 0-60 in 4.7. A Porsche Carrea(SP) 911 could not pull away and we in fact went around him
at about a 165 mph and it had a lot more to go that was on the K04 turbo.......
...if pushed at least above 240 bhp. And even better if the K03"S" is pushed to the limit of blowing up and aided by some water-methanol.
Modded LCRs and other AMK/BAM engines (260-280bhp) have been quoted to make around 5.5 sec.
Big turbos are in a diferent league altogether
~Nautilus
t32er
Guest
I made a 5.7 in the rain with a bold tire, launched at 3.5k, I was more than happy with that, I like the launch on mime now though,
Weight
Car is already rather light compared to other Leons, being a FWD model with few weighty bits added.
Factory weight was quoted to be 1289 kg, let's say the bulky mods (rear ARB, uprated 100% aluminium SMIC, Dynamat coverings - about 7-8 sheets) added 15 kgs at their best. Still far below the 1396 kg of a 4WD Leon, leave alone the gigantic 2.8 VR6 which tips the scales at 1570-1590 kg.
A series of experiments performed by some American fellows with a Honda sedan had shown that weight removal below the 100 kg mark does increase the acceleration performance both in 0-60 and quarter mile only insignificantly. They needed to cut practically half the car to make a difference.
Tyres
Tyres are Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics in rather good shape, stock size 225/45/17.
R-compound and street semi-slick tyres come with penalties: they are noisy, they skid in the wet. The car may be fitted with a set of semi-slicks to get a record and bragging rights, but it still has to revert to Asymmetrics for road driving.
~Nautilus
Had some issues in the meantime with my LFR.
There was a nasty cam belt shearing last October, replaced the 8 exhaust valves with new ones, replaced also worn piston rings and all gaskets on the engine (except for the PowerGasket on the intake manifold).
Also checked for any possible error code, there were none.
After 7000kms (~4300 miles) of breaking-in, the car still feels a bit sluggish than previously.
Checked the 0-60 time, both in 28-32°C and 20°C outside temperature. The average stopwatch time from 12 pulls has been in both cases 7.00 sec compared to 6.4-6.6 sec previously.
There will be a new dyno test made next week, I expect some decrease in power.
Car runs fine, much better than before valve/head job, there is less vibration at idle, smoother acceleration, no sign of stutter or flat spot. However, there is also less wheelspin in 1st gear, very little wheelspin in 2nd and practically none in 3rd, while before I could spin the wheels even in 3rd gear.
Boost raises just as good as before and even a bit quicker. However, there is a laggy sensation, like the car pulls a fraction of a second after the boost jumped on the gauge.
All hoses have been checked except the dreaded hose which runs from charge pipe to pancake pipe behind right side wheel, but I will also check it and seal better the O-ring with RTV silicone at the slightest sign of play.
I wonder what the heck can eat my power and slow my 0-60 times even after the major head repair. As far as I can judge it, if boost is just as before, gasoline just so since no component of the fuel system has been replaced, and compression is better (new piston rings) I see no reason for power loss.
And all common reasons for power loss on a 1.8T (cam belt off, split vacuum hose, boost leak, poor ignition coils etc) come with vibration, noise, fluctuating boost and poor road manners, while my car runs better and smoother than before
Thank you,
~Nautilus
There was a nasty cam belt shearing last October, replaced the 8 exhaust valves with new ones, replaced also worn piston rings and all gaskets on the engine (except for the PowerGasket on the intake manifold).
Also checked for any possible error code, there were none.
After 7000kms (~4300 miles) of breaking-in, the car still feels a bit sluggish than previously.
Checked the 0-60 time, both in 28-32°C and 20°C outside temperature. The average stopwatch time from 12 pulls has been in both cases 7.00 sec compared to 6.4-6.6 sec previously.
There will be a new dyno test made next week, I expect some decrease in power.
Car runs fine, much better than before valve/head job, there is less vibration at idle, smoother acceleration, no sign of stutter or flat spot. However, there is also less wheelspin in 1st gear, very little wheelspin in 2nd and practically none in 3rd, while before I could spin the wheels even in 3rd gear.
Boost raises just as good as before and even a bit quicker. However, there is a laggy sensation, like the car pulls a fraction of a second after the boost jumped on the gauge.
All hoses have been checked except the dreaded hose which runs from charge pipe to pancake pipe behind right side wheel, but I will also check it and seal better the O-ring with RTV silicone at the slightest sign of play.
I wonder what the heck can eat my power and slow my 0-60 times even after the major head repair. As far as I can judge it, if boost is just as before, gasoline just so since no component of the fuel system has been replaced, and compression is better (new piston rings) I see no reason for power loss.
And all common reasons for power loss on a 1.8T (cam belt off, split vacuum hose, boost leak, poor ignition coils etc) come with vibration, noise, fluctuating boost and poor road manners, while my car runs better and smoother than before
Thank you,
~Nautilus
Decided to check the hose from charge pipe to pancake pipe.
There is the greatest pain in the behind to remove it through the wheel housing, just slightly less painful than changing the front ARB bushes with simple hand tools and a jack
The fitting is the most horrible idiocy ever fit to a turbo system - a simple circlip and two side lugs to hold it, a puny O-ring to seal it, all these to hold 1.5 bar over atmospheric pressure. I wonder if the VAG engineers designed it on drugs.
Pulled the hose out, checked it, took the opportunity to check the charge pipe, pancake pipe and SMIC for oil. There was none. Not the slightest droplet. Dry. Months before there had been some oil in the pipes, but it was gone for good.
The hose should be replaced with silicone, but nobody makes a silicone version of it. Neither Forge, nor Awesome GTI, nor Samco. The sole way to make a silicone replacement is to join together 2 or 3 silicone 90-degree joints. Used a Gypsy-esque way to make it harder and more solid: wrapped it in 6 plastic zip-ties, wrapped it above the ties with fabric, impregnated the fabric in liquid latex glue and covered it with a thin layer of RTV silicone. By hand, it seemed almost as hard as a silicone hose.
Covered the aluminium "snout" and O-ring in red RTV silicone and sealed them forcefully against the fitting in the charge pipe. Fitted the stupid circlip in place, fitted all pipes and wheel.
Also pulled the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor from the intake manifold. It was covered in a crap that looked and felt like burnt oil. (Sensor is just a simple resistor wire.) Cleaned it with acetone and a small stick for a brush, fitted it back.
Immediately after starting up, the engine sound changed, become much deeper, like a 18-wheeler truck, and the car seemed more lively. So previous sluggishness had to do either with a boost leak, or timing pulled back due to wrongly-read intake air temperature.
Should check again the 0-60 time with either a stopwatch or an accelerometer. If it's still 7.00 sec, I drop this car to the breakers
~Nautilus
There is the greatest pain in the behind to remove it through the wheel housing, just slightly less painful than changing the front ARB bushes with simple hand tools and a jack
The fitting is the most horrible idiocy ever fit to a turbo system - a simple circlip and two side lugs to hold it, a puny O-ring to seal it, all these to hold 1.5 bar over atmospheric pressure. I wonder if the VAG engineers designed it on drugs.
Pulled the hose out, checked it, took the opportunity to check the charge pipe, pancake pipe and SMIC for oil. There was none. Not the slightest droplet. Dry. Months before there had been some oil in the pipes, but it was gone for good.
The hose should be replaced with silicone, but nobody makes a silicone version of it. Neither Forge, nor Awesome GTI, nor Samco. The sole way to make a silicone replacement is to join together 2 or 3 silicone 90-degree joints. Used a Gypsy-esque way to make it harder and more solid: wrapped it in 6 plastic zip-ties, wrapped it above the ties with fabric, impregnated the fabric in liquid latex glue and covered it with a thin layer of RTV silicone. By hand, it seemed almost as hard as a silicone hose.
Covered the aluminium "snout" and O-ring in red RTV silicone and sealed them forcefully against the fitting in the charge pipe. Fitted the stupid circlip in place, fitted all pipes and wheel.
Also pulled the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor from the intake manifold. It was covered in a crap that looked and felt like burnt oil. (Sensor is just a simple resistor wire.) Cleaned it with acetone and a small stick for a brush, fitted it back.
Immediately after starting up, the engine sound changed, become much deeper, like a 18-wheeler truck, and the car seemed more lively. So previous sluggishness had to do either with a boost leak, or timing pulled back due to wrongly-read intake air temperature.
Should check again the 0-60 time with either a stopwatch or an accelerometer. If it's still 7.00 sec, I drop this car to the breakers
~Nautilus
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