Seat toledo limp mode turbo problem

nathal · Oct 20, 2008

Hi, i have just bought a 02 seat toledo 110 tdi se.

I have the problem with water soaking the mats, and also the shaky front wheels while braking. From reading, the water leaks are from the door seals and the front discs must be warped.

The main problem i have is that the car goes into limp mode, after the car goes over 3000rpm, but only in 4th or 5th gear, not 1, 2 or 3rd.

i went to vw garage and got computer checked.

as follows:

found turbo sensor and air mass meter faults

possible boost sensor or air mass meter.

can any one show me where i can find these two items to fix or replace

thanks in advance, also is the air mass meter same as maf

WeeJase · Oct 20, 2008

you are looking for #4 the MAF

jiege01 · Oct 20, 2008

turbo sensor is the map sensor, at number 13, below the drivers side headlight.

nathal · Oct 21, 2008

thanks for the help.

last nite i removed egr and it was bunged up with soot, baked on grease. gave it a good clean out. freed up the turbo linkage, and checked and replaced vacuum hoses. took it for a drive and the car was WELL IMPROVED. twice as fast as it was.

took it a good drive but when it hit 3500rpm in 4th, it went into limp mode again.

brought it into garage again and removed air flow meter, with alot of difficulty as i hadnt the right device for reoming screws.

the diode in the air flow meter had fallen off, so obviously this is at fault.

will get another maf and see if this cures the problem.

the manifold was also bunged up with gunge/soot but i didnt bother cleaning it

nathal · Oct 21, 2008

my temp gauge in the car is also acting a bit funny as it can jump and fall very quickly. i suspect this as being faulty.

can anyone point me in the direct of the sensor so it can be replaced.

ps. any free way of getting aura cd player code.

nathal · Oct 21, 2008

Have replaced the maf and the car still goes into limp mode.

any other areas i should look into

teds1969 · Oct 21, 2008

I have the same model as yourself and have also experienced the same limp mode problem. The fault lies with the turbo. It goes into limp mode due to the vanes sticking in the turbo. I used innotec cleaning system to cure this. To buy the kit costs about £45. However it occasionally still goes into limp mode when accelerating hard under load but nowhere near as often as before. Your only other option is to fork out for a new turbo.

nathal · Oct 22, 2008

hi, thanks for the reply. I took the car to the vw gargae and they identified 2 faults. air mass meter ans turbo sensor.

i have replaced the air flow meter and i am going to replace the turbo sensor(map). if that doesnt sort out the problem, i will see to the turbo.

does the turbo have to be removed to clean it out or can i clean it while it is still on the car.

sssstew · Oct 22, 2008

to clean it properly you need to remove and take apart.

jeffurs · Oct 22, 2008

Just on to say that i had all the problems with my tolly that u guy's have had.
Changed this that and the other,Took it to turbo specalits , New turbo,egr, maf sensor ,cat, vag comed it several times. After several hundreds of pounds two months down the line had the same problems again(limp mode).
Got it down to in the end to be the ECU, they said that it could be repaired but could cost up £1000. ( This is only a suggestion don't take my word for it .It could a number of problems ,eg sticking vanes etc).
No way now my tolly has gone . Broke my heart.

nathal · Oct 22, 2008

rung the vw garage to check i was working at the right item. a fault had came up with turbo sensor which is different from map( beside drivers front headlight)

anyway, the garage thought it could be the vanes sticking, so have suggested changing the turbo as they have cleabed out ones before and they have lasted sometimes a couple of months and in particular one case, til the end of the same day. so they are getting clogged up again.

a replacement turbo can be got for £500, but add labour to that, so a high bill.

i gave the car a good revving in neutral and it blew out alot of smoke and it improved it abit but still went into limp at 4000rpm in 5th.

dont fancy having to spend that much on fix.

what would happen if i sprayed a can of carb cleaner though manifold to reach turbo while the car is stopped and let it seep into turbo. would it cause damage

sssstew · Oct 23, 2008

the ecu causing it would be a very rare case, like jeffurs had, most can be sorted in other ways.

nathal

Ive heard of a cleaned turbo lasting longer than your garage said.

Revving in neutral wont properly clear it out as the turbo needs to be under load to operate.

Re the cleaner, have a search for what 'basstard' on here did as he has done this with his car.

nathal · Oct 23, 2008

**************************PROBLEM CURED*********************************

didnt change the map sensor but thought i would have a look at the n75, which is boost control. i temporay replaced n75 with the similar item which connects to egr valve.

ive read that this operates similar to n75.

Took car for a drive and can't get the car into limp mode at all, even on hill climbs.

i still think the car is abit slow but prob needs manifold cleaned.

for now the problem is cured

nathal · Nov 13, 2008

Spoke to soon, the problem is back

nicktw · Nov 13, 2008

Repeat Solution

Hi

I had this problem about a year ago - posted a thread but cant find it now. Went through all you guys have and eventually traced problem to loose wire at back of fuse box connecting fuse think 23, that powers MAF etc.

On Toledo access to rear of fusebox is through side aperture of dashboard. My car spent weeks in Seat and specialist VAG Garages, they changed everything but it was a £3 cd from EBAY that eventually disgnosed.

If this is your problem insist that dealers/garages etc remove all newly fitted parts as they haven't solved the problem so you dont need them.

Good luck

nathal · Nov 14, 2008

i need to change my main headlight switch that operates lights and fogs, so i will look about to check it out.

Thats the fuse box in car and not beside battery in engine bay.

btw. how did you evere manage to find that problem

nicktw · Nov 14, 2008

Hi Yes it is fusebox on right hand side of steering wheel. Access to rear is gained by prising away black panel at end of dashboard and then undoing the security screws holding the cover on.

I diagnosed it through a £3 CD from Ebay, a vag service manual. Everything pointed to an intermittent power supply to the maf. I found my thread again, click on my name and view other postings by me. It is fuse 47.

I hope it sorts this for you.

Regards

Nick

nathal · Nov 17, 2008

hi, just checked and the fuses only go up to 44

nicktw · Nov 17, 2008

Hi sorry

Just checked original thread below:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1550294#post1550294

Its fuse 43 but you could check them all

Regards

Nick

Nazlfc · Feb 22, 2010

Oil leak

Hi All,

In December I had the head gasket repaired on my 2001 Y Reg Seat Toledo TDI SE and things seemed to be fine for me until 2 weeks ago. Firstly, the oil light flashed on the dash so I decided to take the car back to the garage that repaired the car. I had only done 600 miles in only 6 weeks after the repair and was wondering why the oil consumption was so high. The garage merely topped the oil up and asked me to see how it goes after that. That of course dealt with the light on the dash. However, after a 20 mile journey on the motorway I noticed a small pool of oil underneath the car (beneath the tray cover). I also noticed the underside of the car was very greasy. So I took the the car back to the garage and they put it on their ramp and partially removed the underside tray and claimed that the turbo was leaking oil hence, the turbo was on its way out. The rear bumper was also really sooty and the mechanic claimed that the engine was burning oil and releasing this soot that was coming out of the exhaust and sticking itself onto the rear bumper and all this was related.

Since then, I have noticed multiple patches of oil on the road falling from the same place.

Does this diagnosis made by the garage sound right to anyone here (based on the above)?

I've spent 800 pounds on the gasket, new water pump and cambelt and only a few weeks later it looks as though I'll have to spend on a new turbo and I've only had the car 6 months

Any advice and help would be really appreciated.

Thanks

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