Faulty Electrics (immobiliser issue)

Bondiblu · Dec 12, 2008

I've got an 02 TDI 130 Pd. Recently I've started getting some random electrical faults. Fuel gauge works erratically, immobiliser warning light came on the other night. Had to get out, lock and then unlock to get the car started. Climate control is also playing up and working erratically giving me a reading of -10 the other night and blasting hot air in. Oil temp gauge back light flashing constantly, trip computer giving stupid figures, like 2000 mile to fill up.

These all seem to be happening at the same time. Any idea's??? I hope the ECU is not packing in.

Nath. · Dec 12, 2008

Dodgy battery, alternator or dodgy battery earth/live connection. I think that if the voltage to the cars electrical system is too low or indeed too high you could get faults like the ones you have.

goble · Dec 12, 2008

Sounds more like a poor / sporadic earth to me

Bondiblu · Dec 12, 2008

Thanks for your replies, will pop the bonnet and have a look tomorrow!!! The volt gauge seems to be giving +/- what I would expect.

goble · Dec 12, 2008

wouldnt go near the bonnet , the earth your looking for are the ones on top of the gearbox tunnel and at the base of the 'a' posts

Bondiblu · Dec 12, 2008

Thanks for the heads up, I'll get the stands out then!! Cheers!! Hope the weather's on my side

goble · Dec 12, 2008

stands???
there inside the car under the carpet

Bondiblu · Dec 12, 2008

Lol, umm ok, sorry having a dozey moment, I appreciate your help. I'll post my findings. Cheers again!!

Bondiblu · Dec 26, 2008

Resolution at last

After many an hour with my fluke, tracing wires and stripping the dash. The fault seemed to be pointing at a dodgey connection or a break in one of the wires as the instruments would work one minute and not the next. I finally removed the instrument panel "again", and stripped it down to have a good look. Being a computer techy helped. I found a few pins dry jointed on the connector socket. I reflowed the solder and all's working fine again.

I'm glad I was persistent and didn't rush off to the stealers, as they probably would have just replaced the instrument panel.

pow · Dec 27, 2008

This is good to know as my 02 Sport TDI insruments are beginning to play up.

the_fbi · Dec 27, 2008

Bondiblu said:
I finally removed the instrument panel "again", and stripped it down to have a good look. Being a computer techy helped. I found a few pins dry jointed on the connector socket. I reflowed the solder and all's working fine again.

I don't suppose you took any pics of the job or anything to identify the dodgy joints?

Its a common fault on 130 Sports, also on A3's (they share the same instruments?) Normally its just the fuel gauge which read empty, along with the outside temp on the MFD going down to 0 then ---, also the Climate outside temperature reading ---. Yours was apparently worse.

There are quite a few thread on this, with the result always being a new dash as people had redone all the solder with no joy. New dash is also a new key programming exercise too, so not cheap

When you removed the dash, did you have to recode the immobiliser or anything other than just replug it in?

I'm up for freezing my arse off tomorrow to get this fixed, as I always have to fill up by 350miles as I can't trust the gauge to be working when I'm getting low.

Bondiblu · Dec 28, 2008

the_fbi said:
I don't suppose you took any pics of the job or anything to identify the dodgy joints?

Its a common fault on 130 Sports, also on A3's (they share the same instruments?) Normally its just the fuel gauge which read empty, along with the outside temp on the MFD going down to 0 then ---, also the Climate outside temperature reading ---. Yours was apparently worse.

There are quite a few thread on this, with the result always being a new dash as people had redone all the solder with no joy. New dash is also a new key programming exercise too, so not cheap

When you removed the dash, did you have to recode the immobiliser or anything other than just replug it in?

I'm up for freezing my arse off tomorrow to get this fixed, as I always have to fill up by 350miles as I can't trust the gauge to be working when I'm getting low.

Unfortunately didn't have my camera with me. Was quite straight forward. I didn't have to recode anything, just plug it back in. On the back of the instrument panel is a big green connector socket. These are the pins that I reflowed the solder on. The trickiest problem was actually soldering as I didn't want to remove the dials so was a tight squeeze with the soldering iron. You'll need quite a fine tip. I didn't look into removing the dials, not sure if the needles would need removing, but probably will, but it is possible to get in there without removing them.

the_fbi · Dec 28, 2008

Cheers for that, may take a look whilst the sun is shining.

the_fbi · Dec 28, 2008

Hm....

How much of the dash has to come out to get the instruments off?

Can only see 2 screws above the instruments, then it looks like the whole of the plastic down to beneath the aircon comes off in one piece?

I'm guessing its not quite that simple and there are a load of clips/screws hanging about?

Nath. · Dec 28, 2008

^^^^just the trim around the cluster (the 2 screws you can see, then the trim has 2 clips below the cluster) then the cluster has about 4 screws, 2 plugs and you can remove it. and you don't even need to remove the steering wheel.

I had my bro's out twice and re-soldered all the pins on both the sockets, tinned the pins to make them shiny, re-soldered the gauges and still had the same intermittent problems. He went for a new cluster in the end and got small change from a monkey

the_fbi · Dec 28, 2008

nathwarr said:
^^^^just the trim around the cluster (the 2 screws you can see, then the trim has 2 clips below the cluster) then the cluster has about 4 screws, 2 plugs and you can remove it. and you don't even need to remove the steering wheel.

I had my bro's out twice and re-soldered all the pins on both the sockets, tinned the pins to make them shiny, re-soldered the gauges and still had the same intermittent problems. He went for a new cluster in the end and got small change from a monkey

Thanks, I'll give it a go after the footy.

It was probably one of your threads I'd read before about the issue, which didn't inspire confidence with a diy fix based on your experiences

Bondiblu · Dec 28, 2008

Removal of the dash panel insert
There is no need to remove the steering wheel. However, the following illustrations do not show the steering wheel to facilitate comprehension.
– Pull the steering wheel with the height adjustment device, pull it right out and secure it in the lowest position.

– Release the upper cover -1- of the combied steering column switch. To do this, carefully pull it upwards.

– remove the lower -1- and upper -2- bolts that secure the dash panel shade frame.
– Remove the upper cover of the combined steering column switch.
– Remove the dash panel shade frame by carefully releasing the retaining clips -3-.
Note** When removing the dash panel frame shade be careful not to damage the surface of the dash panel.

– Remove the upper and lower -arrows- dash panel securing bolts.
– Pull the dash panel towards the driver´s compartment and separate the connectors from the rear part of the dash panel.
– Remove the dash panel carefully so as not to damage its surface. To do this, protect the edges of the dash panel where the frame shade is located with masking tape and remove the panel carefully

I hope that helps, It's not a hard job, just needs a bit of patience. I found I could remove the little glove box (where the relays and Vag-com Interface is) and unplug the large green connector (has a purple locking lever, this needs to be pushed upwards to release the connector) on the back of the panel behind the speed dial.

the_fbi · Dec 28, 2008

Fantastic!

Thanks all.

the_fbi · Dec 28, 2008

Well, that was slightly more involved and more wiggling than the instructions showed!

All back together, but as I feared the immboliser isn't a happy chappy. Starts for a couple of seconds then dies. Flashing car with a key on the dash says it all

Is this a vag-com only job, or is there some unlock/relock sequence which will sort it? Car still unlocks and locks OK with the remote.

Nath. · Dec 28, 2008

Did you disconect the battery when you removed the cluster?

Maybe you need to recode the keys, look in the flip key info thread in the MK4 FAQ section.

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Faulty Electrics (immobiliser issue)

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