Jacking options

bcroninuk

Active Member
Dec 31, 2014
23
0
I want to start doing my own basic work on the car, such as changing brake pads. The manual recommends the use of a scissor jack behind the sill. What is the option that others here use to jack and support the car. Been advised not to have the car jacked up only with a scissor or trolley jack and use axel stands?

It seems to be a hidden "secret" that there are other load bearing mounting points under the car as well?

In simple terms I would like to have the car jacked up so I can replace brake pads and discs.

Fire away... many thanks
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,546
686
Consider your scissor jack for emergency use only for changing a tyre when in a pinch!
If you intend to do your own maintenance - get your self a floor/trolley jack and some axle stands.

This is mine - not expensive.

1697703087909.png


Also get some rubber sill pads:
1697703292255.png


There is a thread on here somewhere (do a search) about the jacking/axle stand points. Probably a good idea, but I must say I haven't bothered.
For doing brakes I jack up of the sill using trolley jack and rubber pad above - then place my axle stand under the subframe mounting point.

Doing your own discs you'll need a large 200nm+ torque wrench, to torque the caliper carrier bolts.
 

bcroninuk

Active Member
Dec 31, 2014
23
0
Many thanks for the info. The owner manual only mentions using the reinforced section of the rail behind the sill. So I should use the trolley on the sill, then use an axel on another load point? I have seen another post about these "hidden" load points on the subframe but a bit unsure where they are...
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,546
686
Many thanks for the info. The owner manual only mentions using the reinforced section of the rail behind the sill. So I should use the trolley on the sill, then use an axel on another load point? I have seen another post about these "hidden" load points on the subframe but a bit unsure where they are...
The sill has a small mark front and rear - this is the area suitable for lifting where you would put your scissor jack. Using your trolley jack on the sill you should use the rubber bung I mentioned above.


example:
1697711015435.png


 

bcroninuk

Active Member
Dec 31, 2014
23
0
Cool... if I use the trolley to jack up the car, would there be enough space to get the axel stand in place, next to the trolley jack? Then release the trolley jack.
 

eltawater

Full and wholesome member
May 1, 2008
311
47
Nope. But you can jack up from the rear sill point using a trolley jack and then place your axle stand under the sill point at the front if you want to work on your front wheels.
 

bcroninuk

Active Member
Dec 31, 2014
23
0
Nope. But you can jack up from the rear sill point using a trolley jack and then place your axle stand under the sill point at the front if you want to work on your front wheels.
Oh did not reliase that was possible. I have seen some youtube vids where they trolley jack at the jack point then put the axel jacks as close to the jack point... is that entire "rail" behind the sill capable of taking a load?
 

eltawater

Full and wholesome member
May 1, 2008
311
47
So long as you use the official reinforced jacking points, it's fine. It's how I change the pads and discs on my cupra ST, and it's no different if you were jacking from the front and then putting the axle stand on the back.
There's just not enough room normally to fit the jack and an axle stand side by side at the same point.

Golf video but the principle is the same.

 

Metalogic

Active Member
Mar 11, 2024
126
26
Oxford, UK
So long as you use the official reinforced jacking points, it's fine. It's how I change the pads and discs on my cupra ST, and it's no different if you were jacking from the front and then putting the axle stand on the back.
There's just not enough room normally to fit the jack and an axle stand side by side at the same point.

Golf video but the principle is the same.

Sorry for the thread necro, but am wanting to get just the front of my car (actually a Mk. 5 Ibiza, but the principal is the same) onto jack stands to do an oil change and just wanted to confirm your procedure. I have a Sealey low profile 2.5 ton trolley jack, a pair of pin-locking jack stands and hockey puck-style adapters with a slot in them for all three, so that the reinforced sill jacking points can sit in these on top of the jack/jack stands.

If I've understood correctly the procedure to just get the front of the car on jack stands would be something like:

1) ensure hand brake is on and put a chock behind the left rear wheel.

2) Jack up the right-hand side of the car from the rear jacking point high enough to be able to put a jack stand under the front jacking point, then lower the jack down slope onto the jack stand.

3) Put a chock behind the right hand rear wheel and removed chock from left-hand rear wheel.

4) Jack up the left-hand side of the car from the rear jacking point high enough to be able to put a jack stand under the front jacking point, then lower the jack down slope onto the jack stand.

5) Replace chock behind the left rear wheel.

Does that sound right? Am slightly concerned the car will roll a bit when jacking the second time from the left rear ...

Thanks!
 

eltawater

Full and wholesome member
May 1, 2008
311
47
No idea about the Ibiza I'm afraid as I've never owned one so can't say for certain whether the same applies. You may be better off posting on the Ibiza specific sub forums for a definitive answer.
 

Metalogic

Active Member
Mar 11, 2024
126
26
Oxford, UK
No idea about the Ibiza I'm afraid as I've never owned one so can't say for certain whether the same applies. You may be better off posting on the Ibiza specific sub forums for a definitive answer.
Understood, though I'm pretty sure the jacking points are in similar positions. I guess my main question was whether you basically just jack the car up front the from the rear points each side, I order to get jack stands under the front jacking points?
 

Walone

Active Member
Feb 10, 2016
1,634
462
Near Heathrow
Understood, though I'm pretty sure the jacking points are in similar positions. I guess my main question was whether you basically just jack the car up front the from the rear points each side, I order to get jack stands under the front jacking points?
In principle what you are suggesting is what I do, but as I don't have smooth floor for my tolley jack I place it at a right angle to the side of the car on top of a thick piece of plywood so that as I jack the car up the wheels of the jack can roll on the plywood so the car is not forced sideways. Hope that makes sense :)
 
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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,970
1,060
South Scotland
Like most VAG cars, there are 4 strong points on the body, more inboard than the folded sill areas, each of these 4 points on the Polo/Ibiza/Fabia/A1 has a round nylon blanking cover - as opposed to black "rubber" covers/bungs, if your trolley jack has a compliant pad on top or built into the saddle, you can centre the trolley jack at each of these points to fit a jack stand or axle stand under the usual "emergency car jack" associated to that jacking sill/rail position.

I tend to always play safe so place a wedge/stop at the front of each front wheel and at the rear of each rear wheel to minimise the risk of it moving while jacking.

Plus, you can always go to the expensive of fitting Audi TT Mk1 "jacking point protectors" at each of these 4 holes in the body - and just place your trolley jack under them when jacking up - I did that to my wife's previous 2002 VW Polo and have done the same to her current 2015 VW Polo, these 4 areas are easily strong enough to be used on these small cars only, I'd not bother trying that on Golf/Leon/Octavia/A3 though.

As an "information only" comment, there is a version of trolley jack available that has a notch in the lifting parts so that you can locate axle stands and the trolley on the folded sill strong sections at the same time - but as usual only available, I think, in the USA. Similarly there is a more expensive option, that I felt the need to buy, that consists of, in my case, a set of 4 cast alloy "stools" that have a detachable top plate, you place the top plate on the trolley jack, just up the car, slip the stool in so that it is now under the top plate, then lower the trolley jack and you can remove the trolley jack, I find it smarter to use 2 trolley jacks and lift one side of my cars up at a time - that kit is called Jackpoint jack stands, again only sold in the USA but I joined a Porsche group buy so the shipping was very cheap as maybe as many as 10 or 12 pairs of jack stands were being ordered in at the same time - so we got discount on the jack stands as well, still quite expensive though, but I've used them on our Audi S4, SEAT Leon Cupra, SEAT Arona and VW Polo and they make doing brake work very easy as well as any other jobs that require the car to be lifted up off its wheels. I made up 4 long wide wooden ramps for when the work being done does not need the wheels to be off the ground.

Edit:- I've seen these comments/videos concerning lifting Golf GTIs "from the other end" but I've never got the feeling that a Polo/Ibiza would cooperate in that way, yes lifting the front will lift the back quite quickly, but not the other way round. My old S4 has "firm" suspension, but I'd never try that trick on it.

I always aim to just use the folded welded seam/sill/rail - at the jacking points, to locate the jack stand or axle stand adaptors and use the strong areas at these points to carry the weight of the cars - so far so good!
 
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Metalogic

Active Member
Mar 11, 2024
126
26
Oxford, UK
Like most VAG cars, there are 4 strong points on the body, more inboard than the folded sill areas, each of these 4 points on the Polo/Ibiza/Fabia/A1 has a round nylon blanking cover - as opposed to black "rubber" covers/bungs, if your trolley jack has a compliant pad on top or built into the saddle, you can centre the trolley jack at each of these points to fit a jack stand or axle stand under the usual "emergency car jack" associated to that jacking sill/rail position.

I tend to always play safe so place a wedge/stop at the front of each front wheel and at the rear of each rear wheel to minimise the risk of it moving while jacking.

Plus, you can always go to the expensive of fitting Audi TT Mk1 "jacking point protectors" at each of these 4 holes in the body - and just place your trolley jack under them when jacking up - I did that to my wife's previous 2002 VW Polo and have done the same to her current 2015 VW Polo, these 4 areas are easily strong enough to be used on these small cars only, I'd not bother trying that on Golf/Leon/Octavia/A3 though.

As an "information only" comment, there is a version of trolley jack available that has a notch in the lifting parts so that you can locate axle stands and the trolley on the folded sill strong sections at the same time - but as usual only available, I think, in the USA. Similarly there is a more expensive option, that I felt the need to buy, that consists of, in my case, a set of 4 cast alloy "stools" that have a detachable top plate, you place the top plate on the trolley jack, just up the car, slip the stool in so that it is now under the top plate, then lower the trolley jack and you can remove the trolley jack, I find it smarter to use 2 trolley jacks and lift one side of my cars up at a time - that kit is called Jackpoint jack stands, again only sold in the USA but I joined a Porsche group buy so the shipping was very cheap as maybe as many as 10 or 12 pairs of jack stands were being ordered in at the same time - so we got discount on the jack stands as well, still quite expensive though, but I've used them on our Audi S4, SEAT Leon Cupra, SEAT Arona and VW Polo and they make doing brake work very easy as well as any other jobs that require the car to be lifted up off its wheels. I made up 4 long wide wooden ramps for when the work being done does not need the wheels to be off the ground.

Edit:- I've seen these comments/videos concerning lifting Golf GTIs "from the other end" but I've never got the feeling that a Polo/Ibiza would cooperate in that way, yes lifting the front will lift the back quite quickly, but not the other way round. My old S4 has "firm" suspension, but I'd never try that trick on it.

I always aim to just use the folded welded seam/sill/rail - at the jacking points, to locate the jack stand or axle stand adaptors and use the strong areas at these points to carry the weight of the cars - so far so good!
Those Jackpoint Jack stands look very good (if pricey), did you go for the "Standard" version, with a slotted puck for your VAG cars? Is the slotted puck all metal, or is there a rubber insert for it?

I might have to hunt down that Porsche group to see if I can get a pair cheaper...
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,546
686
Sorry for the thread necro, but am wanting to get just the front of my car (actually a Mk. 5 Ibiza, but the principal is the same) onto jack stands to do an oil change and just wanted to confirm your procedure. I have a Sealey low profile 2.5 ton trolley jack, a pair of pin-locking jack stands and hockey puck-style adapters with a slot in them for all three, so that the reinforced sill jacking points can sit in these on top of the jack/jack stands.

If I've understood correctly the procedure to just get the front of the car on jack stands would be something like:

1) ensure hand brake is on and put a chock behind the left rear wheel.

2) Jack up the right-hand side of the car from the rear jacking point high enough to be able to put a jack stand under the front jacking point, then lower the jack down slope onto the jack stand.

3) Put a chock behind the right hand rear wheel and removed chock from left-hand rear wheel.

4) Jack up the left-hand side of the car from the rear jacking point high enough to be able to put a jack stand under the front jacking point, then lower the jack down slope onto the jack stand.

5) Replace chock behind the left rear wheel.

Does that sound right? Am slightly concerned the car will roll a bit when jacking the second time from the left rear ...

Thanks!
I use 2x metal ramps for my oil changes - much easier than jacking my Leon, but my drive is not flat to jacking for me is more tricky.
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,546
686
As an "information only" comment, there is a version of trolley jack available that has a notch in the lifting parts so that you can locate axle stands and the trolley on the folded sill strong sections at the same time - but as usual only available, I think, in the USA. Similarly there is a more expensive option, that I felt the need to buy, that consists of, in my case, a set of 4 cast alloy "stools" that have a detachable top plate, you place the top plate on the trolley jack, just up the car, slip the stool in so that it is now under the top plate, then lower the trolley jack and you can remove the trolley jack, I find it smarter to use 2 trolley jacks and lift one side of my cars up at a time - that kit is called Jackpoint jack stands, again only sold in the USA but I joined a Porsche group buy so the shipping was very cheap as maybe as many as 10 or 12 pairs of jack stands were being ordered in at the same time - so we got discount on the jack stands as well, still quite expensive though, but I've used them on our Audi S4, SEAT Leon Cupra, SEAT Arona and VW Polo and they make doing brake work very easy as well as any other jobs that require the car to be lifted up off its wheels. I made up 4 long wide wooden ramps for when the work being done does not need the wheels to be off the ground.
I use this for my trolley jack under the jacking point on my sills.
1715066997563.png

Works a treat - and only a couple quid.
Those 'jackpoint jack stands' look nice but a bit rich for me!
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,970
1,060
South Scotland
Oh yes these Jackpoint jack stands are now crazy money, I considered that after buying my slightly used Audi S4 that I would have serious trouble getting it up in the air without having any hydraulic midrise lifters as the underside was covered in plastic, so after searching around, I discovered that these Jackpoint jack stands could solve that problem, and I have to say, they really are game changers if you don't have the money to through at hydraulic midrise lifters, so for me really do work and so far I've had almost 11 years of use out of them.

For lighter and slightly less protected cars, like the Ibiza and Leon, they are not essential, just handy if you had another car that forced you to buy them.

I really can't work out why there are not similar products, either like the Jackpoint jack stands "table + top platform" or the trolley jack that has a slotted lifting saddle, being sold in UK, someone is missing a trick - okay there are plenty either mechanical or hydraulic lifters, but typically they can get expensive if you have a few "lengths" of cars that you need them to fit.

On the subject of "do the supplied Jackpoint jack stands have rubber lined lifting parts" - no, I bought the standard slotted versions, but then quickly modified them by bonding a slotted hard wood 150mm long strip to each of them and trimming them to suit the 4 lifting points on my S4 as at the rear there is a slight difference side to side - or at least one side at the rear needs to be the mirror image of the other, then I screwed and bonded heavy rubber material on to the top surface and lined the slot, including the exposed Jackpoint slotted part, with rubber. The level of the top surface was made as high as it could be while still being able to be located across the folded welded section of the sill with my trolley jack at its lowest "setting", doing that maximised the lift while sitting on the "stools/tables". I had always intended to use the full length of the strengthened folded/welded sill sections to spread the weight.

When I came to use them with my wife's 2015 VW Polo, I found that there was not quite enough lift to allow the front wheels to be fitted back on the car after the wheels had been taken off and the suspension fully sagged down - so I fabricated, again out of hard wood, slotted adaptors that located on top of the original ones and included steel plates to stop them moving out of position when in use, that works very well - again the tops of these extra spacer/adaptors are slotted and covered in heavy rubber. A lot of care needs to be taken when using these extra spacer/adaptors as I tend to lift the cars at one side at a time, so that I can control both the trolley jacks at the same time, so these "sort of floating" extra spacer/adaptors get "fitted" slightly tilted but if done correctly that tilt disappears when the other side is lifted.
 

Metalogic

Active Member
Mar 11, 2024
126
26
Oxford, UK
I replied to 'RUM4MO' ;)

Ah! :)

For oil changes - I suggested the easiest method is ramps, rather than jacking.
You can build simple wooden ones:
e.g.
View attachment 42371

I'm perhaps veering towards using ramps ( + chocks for the rear), I only recently bought the trolley jack (a Sealey 2.5 ton low profile one), so could actually return it to Halfords, though I guess might be useful if I ever need to take a wheel off. I'm a little nervous about getting the car onto ramps, though, can see it could all go horribly wrong if you mess up the approach or overshoot (though I guess having stops at the end make that less likely). I don't have a workshop (or the ability) to fabricate ramps myself, so would need to buy some off the shelf ones - maybe something like these Rhino Ramps. though the top platform looks a bit short?: https://dieselpartsdirect.co.uk/11909mie.html

rhinoramps_5i8dawl6u4u3lhrc.jpg
 
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