Just installed a new heater matrix without much issue but I can’t seem to get the bottom pipe/hose clamp to seal on the matrix. It’s the one that tightens with a hex bolt but no matter what a try I can’t get it to fully seal. Does anyone know what the proper method for securing it is?
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Heater Matrix Clamp
- Thread starter stu101191
- Start date
I had the same issue with mine. There is a sort of knack to get the little teeth on back of the bracket to sit nice and snug and located properly before you tighten up. That then pulls it in nice and tight. The pipe needs to be pushed right in and then it sort of just `fits` right. It is literally about another 2mm. If it's not located quite right it doesn't seal when under pressure - although I suspect that you already know that.
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That’s really helpful! Did you have any issues seating the pipe in the matrix? It seems to be protruding a little bit and that’s causing the bulk of my issue I think, tried applying more pressure but doesn’t seem to go in any further.
Not sure. I does need to seat properly and then the locking collar sort of just fits. If the collar is seated properly, when you tighten it, it all just seems to work. It's hard to describe, as I had the same issues as you and then it just all came together.
Maybe try to make sure the pipe is as snug as it can be, get the collar located correctly then tighten.
I think that I could sort of tell when the pipe was not located quite right (stick out a few mm than it should) and when it's nice and snug the collar locates properly and you can just tell it's in the right place.
It was trial and error for me, so I'm afraid you might just have to fiddle with it.
Maybe try to make sure the pipe is as snug as it can be, get the collar located correctly then tighten.
I think that I could sort of tell when the pipe was not located quite right (stick out a few mm than it should) and when it's nice and snug the collar locates properly and you can just tell it's in the right place.
It was trial and error for me, so I'm afraid you might just have to fiddle with it.
The o-ring is the seal - the clamp just stops the pipe coming apart. Make sure the pipe & o-ring are fully home before doing up the clamp.
Maybe use a little coolant as lubrication on the o-ring to help seat correctly.
Can i just ask any of you - do I need to drain the coolant out of the whole system before changing my matrix (seat leon mk3 1.6 tdi) - I would have assumed that if the heat was set to cold in the cabin then coolant would not be flowing so the only fluid would come out of the existing heater matrix when I took it out ?
There is no tap or valve, as far as I'm aware, that shuts off the coolant flow (apart from the thermostat), heat and cold are controlled by flaps.
The engine has 3 coolant circuits and the heater matrix one is quite small, so you don't need to drain coolant to change it.
When I did mine, I got about 300-400ml out of it (about a Coke cans worth).
Although you do not need to drain the coolant, it is advisable to to that, as it might block your new matrix running `contaminated` coolant. You can drop the bottom rad hose and drain most of it out. The engine coolant system has a few one way valves and other widgets, so a full system flush can only be achieved with specialist tools and software. I never did that - just dumped as much coolant as I could and filled with fresh. You will need to drive it, let it cool, top up and repeat, as some air will usually get into the system. It is supposed to self-bleed over time.
It's easier to do on a fully cold car, as the system will not be pressurised (or hot).
When I did mine, I got about 300-400ml out of it (about a Coke cans worth).
Although you do not need to drain the coolant, it is advisable to to that, as it might block your new matrix running `contaminated` coolant. You can drop the bottom rad hose and drain most of it out. The engine coolant system has a few one way valves and other widgets, so a full system flush can only be achieved with specialist tools and software. I never did that - just dumped as much coolant as I could and filled with fresh. You will need to drive it, let it cool, top up and repeat, as some air will usually get into the system. It is supposed to self-bleed over time.
It's easier to do on a fully cold car, as the system will not be pressurised (or hot).
Managed to change my heater core on my seat leon 5f 2013 today. Its not difficult, just a bit fiddly. The worst bit was taking out the glove box with all associated fitting and electrical connections. You have to drop the blower motor bottom half and then be careful with putting clamps back on. So far no leaks have taken it for a spin to get the engine up to temp and still no leaks so fingers crossed all is well and good. Main thing is now i have a hot car !!!! It took me three hours in total but I did have a couple of breaks once I had complete access to the matrix and once when i was about to connect the new one . I would suggest that it is reasonable to allow 2 - 2.5 hours to do this job.
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