VERY low power diagnosis EGR / exhaust / inlet manifold / Cat / other??

[MoToJoJo]

Everything has to come off really, exhaust downpipe, inlet manifold, then you should have access for 12mm socket

 

[smutts]

That turbo impeller is a desk ornament unfortunately.
It has eaten something fatally.
You need to look how the gravel, nuts, squirrels etc. fell into it.

 

[CupraChris1981]

Thanks e

Everything has to come off really, exhaust downpipe, inlet manifold, then you should have access for 12mm socket

Managed to detach manifold and the turbo (removed case/blades already) but now I'm stuck trying to get the whole unit through the wheel arch, any ideas on how to get it out?

(Apologies for the state of the car, has been out of action for a long time, health issues)

 

[Rich.T]

Im not sure but dont you have to detach the engine mount?

 

[iammooks]

I looked this up a year or two ago and came across this video by BMAC VAGS in YouTube.

It looks like it's easier to get it out from above rather than through the wheel arch, which means getting the intake manifold out first.

The trouble with the wheel arch is that, yes, engine mounts are an issue, not to mention the cam assembly, coolant reservoir, shock tower etc.

Have you managed to get your intake out?

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[CupraChris1981]

I looked this up a year or two ago and came across this video by BMAC VAGS in YouTube.

It looks like it's easier to get it out from above rather than through the wheel arch, which means getting the intake manifold out first.

The trouble with the wheel arch is that, yes, engine mounts are an issue, not to mention the cam assembly, coolant reservoir, shock tower etc.

Have you managed to get your intake out?

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Thanks, yeh I did watch that video, unfortunately I stripped 2 of the bolts on the manifold so getting that out of the way is going to be very tricky, is there any method of getting it out from below?

 

[Rich.T]

Exhaust out of the way, dogbone and drive shaft i would think.

 

[MoToJoJo]

As @iammooks said, out the top is the best way. If the inlet manifold bolts are causing the usual trouble, now that you have the turbo dismantled, you should be able to get a pair of grips locked onto the offending hardware. It takes a few small turn and resets depending on the size of the grips, but they shouldn’t provide too much resistance.

Or if you have a dremel (or angle grinder with a 1mm blade if you’re feeling brave) then cut the heads off the bolts and budget for a replacement inlet manifold (check eBay or ask people on here, they aren’t that expensive) just in case.

Otherwise it’s dropping the subframe at the back and the associated parts and you know what just cut the manifold off, it’d be easier

 

[CupraChris1981]

As @iammooks said, out the top is the best way. If the inlet manifold bolts are causing the usual trouble, now that you have the turbo dismantled, you should be able to get a pair of grips locked onto the offending hardware. It takes a few small turn and resets depending on the size of the grips, but they shouldn’t provide too much resistance.

Or if you have a dremel (or angle grinder with a 1mm blade if you’re feeling brave) then cut the heads off the bolts and budget for a replacement inlet manifold (check eBay or ask people on here, they aren’t that expensive) just in case.

Otherwise it’s dropping the subframe at the back and the associated parts and you know what just cut the manifold off, it’d be easier

The bolts are sunk into the manifold so even with everything removed there is no way to attack the bolts from the side with grips, even bolt removers don't see to fit around them, cutting the damn thing out would seem like the only viable option...

 

[CupraChris1981]

As @iammooks said, out the top is the best way. If the inlet manifold bolts are causing the usual trouble, now that you have the turbo dismantled, you should be able to get a pair of grips locked onto the offending hardware. It takes a few small turn and resets depending on the size of the grips, but they shouldn’t provide too much resistance.

Or if you have a dremel (or angle grinder with a 1mm blade if you’re feeling brave) then cut the heads off the bolts and budget for a replacement inlet manifold (check eBay or ask people on here, they aren’t that expensive) just in case.

Otherwise it’s dropping the subframe at the back and the associated parts and you know what just cut the manifold off, it’d be easier

Thanks for the advice, managed it out the top in the end! Only needed to cut the head off one bolt got new bolt extractors that only required small bite and was able to remove the rest

Here is what is removed, the 'propeller' seems to be completely seized reckon I should replace the entire manifold or try and clean it to release it, it seems completely jammed and caked in crud, I managed to clean the EGR pretty nicely when that was also caked.. the damaged propeller in the turbo I presume needs replacing (does that mean I can keep the turbo housing and just replace that part?

 

[CupraChris1981]

Another question, what is this and do I need a new one? How about the turbo housing?

 

[CupraChris1981]

Do I need to replace gaskets? (Some missing here I know), I also damaged the metal oil pipe somewhat when removing manifolds but it is still in there and looks like would still work...

Thanks in advance for all the help, I know I'm a noob would just be great to get this car working again been a long time...

 

[MoToJoJo]

Right, lots to do.

First... yay! Always good to see success against VAG hardware.

Ok, so, up to you what you want to do with the turbo. Safest is getting a replacement but your choice.

Inlet manifold, long as you haven't done more than skim it then I can't see a problem, replacements tend to be £35 (either PD150 or PD130, they're the same) so again, your choice.

Gaskets, I'd say replace them although the essential ones are the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets plus the downpipe gasket, the others... not so much but once again, your choice.

Oil pipe, you could risk it or you could get the braided one from either HEL or Darkside (others are likely available).

The bit with the hose coming out the top is the boost actuator and yes, you want to keep hold of it.

 

[MoToJoJo]

Just to add, don't try repairing the turbo especially if you're messing with the exhaust side, they need to be balanced very well or big problems can occur

 

[iammooks]

Like [mention]MoToJoJo [/mention] said, well done - that's a really big job and you've done a really good job of getting two bits out that seriously give me the fear. Give yourself a massive pat on the back there.

I agree on the turbo side - you can buy refurbishing kits and replace the internals yourself, but the amount of wear and RPMs these things see, it has to be so finely balanced that I don't know that anyone would be able to do a good job at home.

Replace the gaskets for the exhaust manifold and intake manifold for sure - any leaks from here and you'll be taking everything out again to replace them. They're not expensive and are a definite 'while you're in there' kind of thing.

This is the intake manifold gasket - you should be able to find one using one of the codes...

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[CupraChris1981]

Thanks guys, it is by far the biggest, toughest and longest job I have ever taken on with my car!

I haven't done anything on the car today and probably won't get back on it until next week.

Plan is to take your advice on the turbo just deciding whether to go new or second hand (£300-150 respectively sound good?), this will be the third turbo so it appears to be a recurring problem) and ill aim at getting new gaskets. The car is not that valuable so i don't want to be spending a tonne, it is more so i can have the engine running nicely again, it has been so long since the car drove decently.

I used oven cleaner to clean out my egr and it seemed to do a really good job, is it worth soaking the manifolds in something similar to clean them out and maybe get the exhaust manifold fan to work again?

 

[MoToJoJo]

Inlet manifold, sure, although it’s ally so not sure oven cleaner is the best choice (someone else will know better than me). As for the turbo manifold, have a play if you want but personally I’d say forget it and just wait for the replacement. Which replacement? The new/recon unit is peace of mind, the used is you pay less but risk more.

 

[mty12345]

Good work on getting it out!! Not many noobs would take on a job like this, so respect for that.

Everyone is giving you great advice so i haven't got much to add, other than to say that i'd 100% replace that oil pipe to the turbo while you are there. Turbos need huge amounts of oil through the bearings, so any slight kink or bend in the pipe could starve the turbo of oil and you'll end up killing it.
Due to the fact you mentioned that the engine fell off it's mounts at some point, you also need to check the return/drain pipe for kinks/bends/ crush damage, as a restriction there would also limit flow through the turbo.

 

[CupraChris1981]

Good work on getting it out!! Not many noobs would take on a job like this, so respect for that.

Everyone is giving you great advice so i haven't got much to add, other than to say that i'd 100% replace that oil pipe to the turbo while you are there. Turbos need huge amounts of oil through the bearings, so any slight kink or bend in the pipe could starve the turbo of oil and you'll end up killing it.
Due to the fact you mentioned that the engine fell off it's mounts at some point, you also need to check the return/drain pipe for kinks/bends/ crush damage, as a restriction there would also limit flow through the turbo.

Is there a pipe you can recommend, I am trying to keep costs down as much as possible but also don't want problems when I get it back together.

Also I think I will have to replace the torx manifold bolts as they got stripped, the ones that were not stripped at all, the way they attach seems strange to me as they have a nut on the end instead of being a standard bolt are you supposed to tighten by hand then screw the nut tight?

 

[CupraChris1981]

So I ordered the 721021 turbo and this turned up, looked identical but seems to have a different part number, when I Google the the 712801 I cannot find it though, only the 721021, any thoughts?