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Scorpion exhaust adapter too small?

Apr 23, 2022
8
0
Hey all,

So I just bought a new scorpion exhaust to fit to my Ibiza, but when ive gone to check if the adapter provided fits on the cat pipe, its way too small. The diameter looks to be about 55mm but the adapter is about 48mm. Even the clamp provided (part 4) is too small to fit over the adapter anyway. Am I missing something here. As far as I know, the adapter is meant to go over both pipes, from the cat to the new resonator and then be clamped tight.

The part(s) in question are part 4 and 5 on the diagram attached. If anyone could shed some light on where I may be going wrong please do because i'm both confused and annoyed that the part doesnt even fit (from what I can tell).

Cheers

1650728020826.png
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
It looks like form the assembly drawing and parts listing, that they expect your existing part of the exhaust is smaller than the beginning of this new exhaust, I'm saying that as the adaptor as shown looks like that and its front clamp is a "43>47mm" one and the rear clamp is a "63>68mm" one.

Have you measured the O/D of the front pipe at the point where this new exhaust fits on to it?

Is this one of these situations where it only fits the earlier 12.TSI 8V engine and you have a later 1.2TSI 16V?

Edit:- have you checked a VAG parts listing to see if the early and later 1.2TSI engines joining sleeve for that point are different?
 
Apr 23, 2022
8
0
It looks like form the assembly drawing and parts listing, that they expect your existing part of the exhaust is smaller than the beginning of this new exhaust, I'm saying that as the adaptor as shown looks like that and its front clamp is a "43>47mm" one and the rear clamp is a "63>68mm" one.

Have you measured the O/D of the front pipe at the point where this new exhaust fits on to it?

Is this one of these situations where it only fits the earlier 12.TSI 8V engine and you have a later 1.2TSI 16V?

Edit:- have you checked a VAG parts listing to see if the early and later 1.2TSI engines joining sleeve for that point are different?
Hey,

Yes, I believe they are expecting the existing part to be smaller since there is a fair bit of gap when I insert the adapter.

I measured the O/D with a rule for a rough estimate, came out at around 54/55mm, but I can get my vernier callipers to it later if it helps for an exact figure.

The adapter O/D measures in at about 47/48mm, so I can't even get the clamp provided (43-47mm) around it, even if it did fit.
Everyother part fits, but just the adapter and clamp to actually join the exhaust to the cat doesn't from what I can tell.

Not sure about the VAG parts listing. Could you point me in the right direction. If it helps I know my engine code is CJZD.

Appreciate the help.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
I've already bought a new or NOS VW Group sleeve for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, ie CJZD, and it's "relaxed" inner diameter is 56.3mm - so that ties in with what you have, so either you have been sent the wrong joining sleeve or that exhaust is for the earlier engine, though if you have a suitable tapered sleeve that would probably work, very very annoying!
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
Yup, earlier 1.2TSI 8V engine has a "45 X 95" joining sleeve, later 1.2TSI 16V has a "55 X 95" joining sleeve.

Edit:- so it looks like you have a 45 > 65mm tapered adapter sleeve when it is a 55 > 65mm tapered adapter sleeve that you need.
 
Apr 23, 2022
8
0
Yup, earlier 1.2TSI 8V engine has a "45 X 95" joining sleeve, later 1.2TSI 16V has a "55 X 95" joining sleeve.

Edit:- so it looks like you have a 45 > 65mm tapered adapter sleeve when it is a 55 > 65mm tapered adapter sleeve that you need.
Ah okay. Thanks for that. I'll get in touch with scorpion and see if they're willing to sent one out to me. If not I'll just have to buy one.

Much appreciated :)
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
Scorpion is well established and respected so I think they will send one out FOC.

How are you to handle the exhaust exit from the rear skirt, are you just cutting it to allow the twin pipes or swopping for another rear skirt/diffuser?

Edit:- and hopefully they will include a new front clamp to suit.
 
Apr 23, 2022
8
0
Scorpion is well established and respected so I think they will send one out FOC.

How are you to handle the exhaust exit from the rear skirt, are you just cutting it to allow the twin pipes or swopping for another rear skirt/diffuser?
Yeah I would expect them to tbh.

It came with a template to cut so I was just gonna cut it and sand it down.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
One thing that annoys me with all VW Group factory fit exhausts is that after maybe 8 years, the clamps on the exhaust joining sleeve rot so much that they break - my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 38K miles is close to that now, I'm hoping to catch it just in time so that I don't have to cut/grind these clamps to get them off - removing a rotted completely through clamp is easy!
My own car, a 2011 S4, came to me with a Milltek Stainless Steel exhaust, that is okay, you can actually hear the engine which is why lots of S4 etc drivers replace the factory exhaust. Milltek seem to source their own clamps as they are fitted with larger bolts than the Mikilar have - but, it looks like while the exhaust and clamp bands are SS, the bolts, due to needing to be strong, are not, so I can see that I'll need to buy a complete set of clamps from Milltek so that I can harvest the clamping bolts from them - as opposed to replacing them all with Mikilar versions with smaller clamping bolts!
 
Apr 23, 2022
8
0
One thing that annoys me with all VW Group factory fit exhausts is that after maybe 8 years, the clamps on the exhaust joining sleeve rot so much that they break - my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 38K miles is close to that now, I'm hoping to catch it just in time so that I don't have to cut/grind these clamps to get them off - removing a rotted completely through clamp is easy!
My own car, a 2011 S4, came to me with a Milltek Stainless Steel exhaust, that is okay, you can actually hear the engine which is why lots of S4 etc drivers replace the factory exhaust. Milltek seem to source their own clamps as they are fitted with larger bolts than the Mikilar have - but, it looks like while the exhaust and clamp bands are SS, the bolts, due to needing to be strong, are not, so I can see that I'll need to buy a complete set of clamps from Milltek so that I can harvest the clamping bolts from them - as opposed to replacing them all with Mikilar versions with smaller clamping bolts!
Yeah, mine has 65k miles on it and the clamp is near rotting already.

Also didn't realise I needed a specific tool for VW group cars (M14 XZN spline). So I installed lowering springs on the rear, got to the front and realised I couldn't do it there until I get that tool. So currently sat with an exhaust I can't put on and a lowered rear half. Not the weekend I expected really haha.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,058
South Scotland
You might need a big bihex deep thin walled socket for one of the front hubs as normally the drive shaft needs releasing and the lower swivel unbolted to pull that aside as the drive shaft on one side can not drop down far enough to get the strut down and out on the hub, the size required is 36mm a lot like Laser Tools 0954. Also buying the right tool to ease out/open the split in the hub worked very well for me as I didn't have it for the "first side" but did for the second side, ie Laser Tools 3396. I ended up buying a pass through socket set and that makes life a lot easier when removing the top bolt on the strut. Lots of people used to report having issues after fitting a lowering set of springs, especially at the front end, as it seems that without any known reason, the struts started to leak after being fitted with shorter springs, also replacing the top mounting and its bearing makes sense, I scatter cashed things when I replaced the front springs on my duaghter's late 2009 Ibiza after one snapped, and replaced the struts, top mount. top bearing and possibly its thrust washer as it was an early car and VW Group changed some parts due to problems in service, also I bought new top spring plates - really as I didn't need to have to redo any of that work is something turned out bad later.
 
Apr 23, 2022
8
0
You might need a big bihex deep thin walled socket for one of the front hubs as normally the drive shaft needs releasing and the lower swivel unbolted to pull that aside as the drive shaft on one side can not drop down far enough to get the strut down and out on the hub, the size required is 36mm a lot like Laser Tools 0954. Also buying the right tool to ease out/open the split in the hub worked very well for me as I didn't have it for the "first side" but did for the second side, ie Laser Tools 3396. I ended up buying a pass through socket set and that makes life a lot easier when removing the top bolt on the strut. Lots of people used to report having issues after fitting a lowering set of springs, especially at the front end, as it seems that without any known reason, the struts started to leak after being fitted with shorter springs, also replacing the top mounting and its bearing makes sense, I scatter cashed things when I replaced the front springs on my duaghter's late 2009 Ibiza after one snapped, and replaced the struts, top mount. top bearing and possibly its thrust washer as it was an early car and VW Group changed some parts due to problems in service, also I bought new top spring plates - really as I didn't need to have to redo any of that work is something turned out bad later.
I'll have a look into it this weekend again anyway since I don't have time through the week to do much with the car. I hate how much more annoying the fronts are compared to the rears.
 
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