2.0 tdi FR engine is occasionally cutting out for a fraction of a second and needs a bit of turning over to start half the time. No fault codes.

[NeilW13]

Hello, wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction.
For a few months now our Leon FR 2.0 tdi 184 has been momentarily cutting out, not stalling just as I’m driving along sometimes, either when there is a change in road gradient or when the accelerator is pressed.
It only happens very occasionally and is only for a fraction of a second and it instantly recovers, It doesn’t need restarted it is like a big engine hiccup.
Another thing is when starting from cold recently it needs to be turned over for a bit longer than normal, sometimes it starts fine though, possibly 50% of the time and I’d say it starts fine when warm or hot.
Thanks.

 

[Speedbird]

Age and mileage? Has it been remapped or had any work done, or just standard? I would say the first thing to do is connect Carista or some form of OBD reader to it and see if there are any fault codes.
Have you ever had the fuel filter cleaned or replaced? Do you run the car on supermarket diesel? My partners car was only ever run on supermarket diesel, hers started suffering power loss and limp mode, turned out to be a blocked fuel filter.
Might be worth checking all your pipes and hoses in the engine bay aswell. See if any are cracked or perished.

 

[NeilW13]

Thanks.
2015, 105k miles. Standard as far as I know.

I do have a cheap code reader, never used it. Do I run the engine when using it?

I was thinking I’d try replacing the fuel filter first even though it was supposedly changed when I bought it in December last year.

Yes I use supermarket fuel.
Its been ok until I’d say 2 to 3 months ago.
I’ll have a look in the engine bay, cheers.

 

[SteveGSXR600K1]

I used to get exactly the same 'hiccup' on a journey when I used to drop my son off at school. Near enough every time, and it always happened at the same point of the journey. Engine cold, and approaching a hill and putting your foot down a bit more to keep your speed up. Never bothered me too much as I just assumed it was because the engine was cold and you've put you foot down.

The long cranking happens to my friends 2015 184FR, with similarly frequency to yours. My 2016 184FR has done it, but only half-a-dozen times in the 4 years I've owned it. Have a look at this video, which explains the issue. It's a Golf GTD but the same engine.

Don't worry about supermarket fuels. All fuels have to comply to a British Standard. Bit of a thing that everyone seems to jump on when it comes up.

 

[NeilW13]

I used to get exactly the same 'hiccup' on a journey when I used to drop my son off at school. Near enough every time, and it always happened at the same point of the journey. Engine cold, and approaching a hill and putting your foot down a bit more to keep your speed up. Never bothered me too much as I just assumed it was because the engine was cold and you've put you foot down.

The long cranking happens to my friends 2015 184FR, with similarly frequency to yours. My 2016 184FR has done it, but only half-a-dozen times in the 4 years I've owned it. Have a look at this video, which explains the issue. It's a Golf GTD but the same engine.

Don't worry about supermarket fuels. All fuels have to comply to a British Standard. Bit of a thing that everyone seems to jump on when it comes up.

That video explains it.
I wonder if the hiccup and long cranking could both be down to the VVT valve sticking.

Thank you

 

[SteveGSXR600K1]

That video explains it.
I wonder if the hiccup and long cranking could both be down to the VVT valve sticking.

Thank you

My 2016 VVT unit is different to my friends 2015 one, so maybe they modified it because of the issue.

 

[Ash23]

I have the same issue with my 2015 on 103k

does anyone know the part number for the part?

 

[NeilW13]

I have the same issue with my 2015 on 103k

does anyone know the part number for the part?

 

[NeilW13]

I have the same issue with my 2015 on 103k

does anyone know the part number for the part?

The video shows part numbers at some point, they might be specific to the vw gtd though.

 

[Ash23]

The video shows part numbers at some point, they might be specific to the vw gtd though.

Ahh thanks,

I just looked under my engine cover and don’t think I can see a VVT.
If anything it looks like their is a black thing but no VVT.
Does anyone know where this would be ?

 

[SteveGSXR600K1]

@Ash23 - It's on the right-hand side of the engine. To see the whole thing, you'll need to take the engine cover off. Below is my 2016 VVT. My friends 2015 is different by not having the dustbin looking side part on it, but I'm pretty sure his looks like it doesn't have a VVT unit at all. As if it's blanked off.

 

[SuperV8]

Don't worry about supermarket fuels. All fuels have to comply to a British Standard. Bit of a thing that everyone seems to jump on when it comes up.

I have to disagree with the use of supermarket fuels and CR diesels.
The British Standard is a 'minimum' requirement - the premium fuel sellers (i'm not talking super diesel - just regular diesel sold by the likes of Shell, Esso, BP) contains more additives than the cheap supermarket fuels.
CR engines rely on the fuel to lubricate the high pressure pumps so these additives are important, also better for your DPF.
My old Audi 1.9PD used engine oil to lubricate the high pressure parts on the unit injectors - and didn't have a DPF so that was fine running on any Diesel fuel.

I work with some diesel experts - who make diesel systems - and their advice it to avoid supermarket Diesel fuel if you care about you engine.

Personally although subtle find my engine is smoother (less Diesel like!) when I use shell or Esso vs when I rarely fill up with supermarket fuel. I also find I get slightly better MPG so the slight cost increase is more than offset by the better more miles per tank.

 

[SuperV8]

@Ash23 - It's on the right-hand side of the engine. To see the whole thing, you'll need to take the engine cover off. Below is my 2016 VVT. My friends 2015 is different by not having the dustbin looking side part on it, but I'm pretty sure his looks like it doesn't have a VVT unit at all. As if it's blanked off.

View attachment 26494

All 184's have VVT, there was a change in housing design mid 2015.

#EDIT# to correct myself!
FYI not all have VVT! I later found I believe it's down to emission class. My Euro 5+ CUPA 184 does NOT have VVT. The Euro 6 CUNA DOES have VVT.

#EDIT# this is a mistake in the catalogue even when using my VIN to lock down the part!
Photo of my CUPA which actually has blanked off end plate - which in the catalogue is only linked to 1.6!
2= 04L109283C

My early 2015 is 03L109096B and this is without 'dustbin' on the side.

 

[Speedbird]

I have to disagree with the use of supermarket fuels and CR diesels.
The British Standard is a 'minimum' requirement - the premium fuel sellers (i'm not talking super diesel - just regular diesel sold by the likes of Shell, Esso, BP) contains more additives than the cheap supermarket fuels.
CR engines rely on the fuel to lubricate the high pressure pumps so these additives are important, also better for your DPF.
My old Audi 1.9PD used engine oil to lubricate the high pressure parts on the unit injectors - and didn't have a DPF so that was fine running on any Diesel fuel.

I work with some diesel experts - who make diesel systems - and their advice it to avoid supermarket Diesel fuel if you care about you engine.

Personally although subtle find my engine is smoother (less Diesel like!) when I use shell or Esso vs when I rarely fill up with supermarket fuel. I also find I get slightly better MPG so the slight cost increase is more than offset by the better more miles per tank.

Same here, I avoid supermarket fuel at all costs. Like I say, had to have the fuel filter changed on the Focus, and the first thing the mechanic asked was 'do you run it on supermarket fuel'?

Since only running the Focus on branded fuel, it is definitely running smoother. I just couldn't be bothered to argue with the original disagreeing post. Whether people use supermarket fuel or not is up to them I couldn't give a toss

 

[Tone2525]

Sorry for the thread revival !

Mine was doing the whole Hiccup thing at higher revs , made speedy progress very frustrating (2.0TDI) and used this thread as a guide, so thank you all.

With mine it ended up being the Crank position sensor. Not so much a fault with the sensor (though it was changed while it was out), more that it was covered in metallic 'dust' from the clutch, causing a miscommunication in the timing. Hall effect type sensors do not like being dirty!

I hope this goes on to help someone else.

 

[SuperV8]

Sorry for the thread revival !

Mine was doing the whole Hiccup thing at higher revs , made speedy progress very frustrating (2.0TDI) and used this thread as a guide, so thank you all.

With mine it ended up being the Crank position sensor. Not so much a fault with the sensor (though it was changed while it was out), more that it was covered in metallic 'dust' from the clutch, causing a miscommunication in the timing. Hall effect type sensors do not like being dirty!

I hope this goes on to help someone else.

Interesting, thanks for sharing.

What were your symptoms? Anything else apart from hiccup at high revs?
What's your mileage?
Did you have any trouble starting? like long cranking?
I see a crank sensor on ebay looks a bit dirty. How did yours compare?
Was is a simple job to remove?

 

[SteveGSXR600K1]

Interesting, thanks for sharing.

What were your symptoms? Anything else apart from hiccup at high revs?
What's your mileage?
Did you have any trouble starting? like long cranking?
I see a crank sensor on ebay looks a bit dirty. How did yours compare?
Was is a simple job to remove?
View attachment 36700

Doesn't look too bad to remove. SEAT call it an 'Engine speed sender' G28.

 

[Tone2525]

Thank you Steve, much appreciated

SuperV8, '64 reg 2.0 TDi 150 with 127k on the clock.
I thankfully didn't suffer with 'long cranking', though since i'ts been changed it is quicker firing up than it was before. So i've no doubt that eventually it'd have ended up that way,
I paid my local VAG specialist to do it and check over everything. The codes that flash up (if they show!) can be very misleading, the cam and crank sensors work in tandem, so it can be either or...... neither if there's something interfering with the signal, like metallic dust.
They saved the old sensor for me, and was indeed like the 1 pictured, if not slightly worse.

 

[jazavchar]

Hey guys,

Sorry for reviving an old thread. This is the only forum thread that describes something similar that I am currently experiencing with my 2015 A3 8V 2.0 TDI 184.

It happens so randomly, I'd be driving around with light throttle applied and the engine would just very briefly drop out (not turn off) and then the revs would return according to how much throttle was applied. With a harder acceleration this causes a very violent jerk, on slower speeds it's like a hiccup (kinda like what the OP describes). I had the long turn over happen once but it was this winter and it was very cold so I assumed that had something to do with it.

I did a quick scan with Carista and it showed a cam position sensor error under the ABS group (?!). I (stupidly) cleared that error, and no there are no more faults. VCDS shows also shows no fault codes.

What do you guys think this could be? Did the OP NeilW13 solve this issue?

 

[nvidia]

I am having similar issues, but I thought it happen during gear change?
I did a dsg gearbox service since I haven't had it yet. (finger cross).
It happened once while on the motorway, just steady 60mph, just at the top of the hill of think, power dropped and kick back in after 1 sec or so.
Most of the time I noticed it happen when its changing from 3rd to 4th gear.
I had once when i was overtaking, 5th to 6th, power gone and back again.