2019 Seat Arona front doors speakers replacement

[Sandm0n]

Hi All,

I'm looking to replace my Arona's original front doors speakers for something a bit better (component set) and would like to know what is the front doors speakers size?
Is it the same as the VW golf MK7?
My plan is to connect my Focal Ibus 2.1 so I can power the front door speakers using the Focal's built in amplifier and cross them over at about 80hz to the Focal's sub.

Thanks

 

[paskahata]

Same thing here. Went and removed the doorsleeve to see what im dealing with. Looks like the original midbass driver is the same size as in my old Altea. Tweeter seems also quite easy to change.

 

[Sandm0n]

Same thing here. Went and removed the doorsleeve to see what im dealing with. Looks like the original midbass driver is the same size as in my old Altea. Tweeter seems also quite easy to change.

View attachment 24967

Thank you very much.

 

[paskahata]

Succesfully installed a layer of CTK damping sheet in the passanger door today and some WaveFix mat on top of that. Also drilled the rivets off and installed adapters for the speakers to sit on.

I can confirm that the basic VW speaker adapter fits Seat Arona. Apparently you just have to cut off some plastic bits from the doorsleeve for it to fit on top of the 165mm midbass speaker. I’ll see when I have the time to continue this project. Damn responsibilities!

 

[Sandm0n]

Succesfully installed a layer of CTK damping sheet in the passanger door today and some WaveFix mat on top of that. Also drilled the rivets off and installed adapters for the speakers to sit on.

I can confirm that the basic VW speaker adapter fits Seat Arona. Apparently you just have to cut off some plastic bits from the doorsleeve for it to fit on top of the 165mm midbass speaker. I’ll see when I have the time to continue this project. Damn responsibilities!

Looks good, well done.

 

[Tell]

Succesfully installed a layer of CTK damping sheet in the passanger door today and some WaveFix mat on top of that. Also drilled the rivets off and installed adapters for the speakers to sit on.

I can confirm that the basic VW speaker adapter fits Seat Arona. Apparently you just have to cut off some plastic bits from the doorsleeve for it to fit on top of the 165mm midbass speaker. I’ll see when I have the time to continue this project. Damn responsibilities!

That feels like my old Altea speaker project you find on here. Had to hacksaw down the plastic speaker standard VW adaptor. Came with leads, connected up your speakers, Bobs your Uncle.

You did say they were similar to the Altea to look at. They were very cheap. I reckon the Beats & Sound ones are fine.... suspect you might have had pre Beats & Sound in yours ?.

 

[paskahata]

Did the tweeters today. A-pillar trim comes of easily, just a hard pull and voila. Tweeter is connected with a same kind of connector found in many VAG cars and all over em. Ive seen the same connector in some licenseplate light holder for example. So if you want to keep the original tweeter easily fitted back, i think you can find those connectors quite easily.

Anyway, my hands were itching for getting to work so i didnt have time to search for ones..

Tweeter housing is ”plasticwelded” to the A-pillar so i melted it off with a soldering iron. The new Blam tweeter i fastened with the leftover soft CTK dampening material by cutting narrow pieces and wrapped it around the tweeter. Just so much that the diameter become a bit larger than the original tweeter housing, and then squash it in the original place. After that cut couple stripes more of the dampening mat and used those to fasten the tweeter from the backside to the a-pillar trim. It stays there snug. Blam tweeters crossovers were just the right size to fit in the end of the dashboard also behind the a-pillar trim.

So the drivers door still need to be filled with dampening material and midbass of it changed. I can tell allready, even now when the other door isn’t even touched, that the sound quality is fenomonal. Cant wait to get my hands on the drivers door.

 

[paskahata]

All done now. Drivers door full of alu-butyl material and softer WaveFix mat. Improved the tweeters fastening a bit by adding softer, more flexible WaveFix material to keep em in place.

Today, when wisiting a local ”walmart” I came upon such a bargain in the outlet I couldn’t resist. Brand new Match PP41DSP amplifier for ~50£. I bought it ofcourse even if i aint sure can i even fit it to my Arona. It came with an ISO harness and behind Seat Connect-system in the glovebox theres a MIB Quadlock connector. So is there a Quadlock-Iso adaptor I can use to connect the amp, or should I even?

Anyhow. Music in my Arona is now plays so so much better in every aspect than the stock one. And all that for just ~200£!

 

[Sandm0n]

All done now. Drivers door full of alu-butyl material and softer WaveFix mat. Improved the tweeters fastening a bit by adding softer, more flexible WaveFix material to keep em in place.

Today, when wisiting a local ”walmart” I came upon such a bargain in the outlet I couldn’t resist. Brand new Match PP41DSP amplifier for ~50£. I bought it ofcourse even if i aint sure can i even fit it to my Arona. It came with an ISO harness and behind Seat Connect-system in the glovebox theres a MIB Quadlock connector. So is there a Quadlock-Iso adaptor I can use to connect the amp, or should I even?

Anyhow. Music in my Arona is now plays so so much better in every aspect than the stock one. And all that for just ~200£!

Nice job
By looking at your quadloc connector photo I can tell you that in your Arona (the same as in mine) there is a 6 channel amplifier (6x20w) built in the MMI unit and your front set of tweeters and woofers crossed over electronically while the rear speakers receive full range signal.

 

[paskahata]

Nice job
By looking at your quadloc connector photo I can tell you that in your Arona (the same as in mine) there is a 6 channel amplifier (6x20w) built in the MMI unit and your front set of tweeters and woofers crossed over electronically while the rear speakers receive full range signal.

I know next no none what it comes to car electricity, but as there is a filtercap behind the tweeters, could it be all 6 channels are fed the exact same signal?

 

[Sandm0n]

I know next no none what it comes to car electricity, but as there is a filtercap behind the tweeters, could it be all 6 channels are fed the exact same signal?

I would have been more than happy to be wrong but…
When I first connected the high level subwoofer inputs to the MMI’s “tweeters” outputs in the quadloc connectors there was no sound output from my sub, when I connected it to the “woofers” outputs it came alive, meaning the quadloc “tweeters” output doesn’t output full range.
When I disconnected the tweeters from the MMI the front woofers output sound was only up to about 3khz or so and didn’t sound like the rear speakers in terms of high frequencies which means there is a low pass filter in the chain.

 

[MSA33]

Hi, I recently upgraded my speakers to coaxial vibe slick 6 v7's I also got the vibe optisound amp and as above found out that the tweeters were being amplified and not the front doors,
So after a lengthy conversation with vibe (they have never had this issue apart from an issue with Renault) and some brain storming I've clarified that if I Splice the tweeter wires on the T Harness and join both front door feed and then splice the correct polarity to the amplifier inputs I hold then have full range and the doors should then be amplified just not sure which end of the T harness I would need to splice the end just out of the MMI or the end the cars loom plugs into and would a splice work without messing up the sound as the vibe amp uses the cars loom to amplify I shouldn't think I would have to disconnect the front woofer cable and then join the tweeter and woofers? I have Identified the wires already so that's not an issue just don't want to splice until I am 100% positive. Also does anybody know the part number for seat door speakers I picked up a set of polo ones for the time being but they sound like ass thanks

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Sandm0n]

you cannot join the tweeters output and the woofers amplified outputs and expect to get full range output, you'll probably (99%) damage the MMI's built in amplifiers.
the only way to get a full range signal is by using the rear speakers amplified outputs from the MMI unit.....the other option is using a dsp that can recieve high level (amplified) signals from 2 sources ( source 1- tweeters output, source 2-woofers output) correct it (as there is an electronic crossover in the signal chain before the MMI's built in amplifiers so the dsp will need to "correct" the crossover slopes and generate a flat response output for each one of the sources) and combine them for a full range signal.

 

[Sandm0n]

Hi, I recently upgraded my speakers to coaxial vibe slick 6 v7's I also got the vibe optisound amp and as above found out that the tweeters were being amplified and not the front doors,
So after a lengthy conversation with vibe (they have never had this issue apart from an issue with Renault) and some brain storming I've clarified that if I Splice the tweeter wires on the T Harness and join both front door feed and then splice the correct polarity to the amplifier inputs I hold then have full range and the doors should then be amplified just not sure which end of the T harness I would need to splice the end just out of the MMI or the end the cars loom plugs into and would a splice work without messing up the sound as the vibe amp uses the cars loom to amplify I shouldn't think I would have to disconnect the front woofer cable and then join the tweeter and woofers? I have Identified the wires already so that's not an issue just don't want to splice until I am 100% positive. Also does anybody know the part number for seat door speakers I picked up a set of polo ones for the time being but they sound like ass thanks

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Can you upload a photo of the back of the quadloc connector in your Arona (not the adapter in your photos).

 

[MSA33]

Hi its the same as the one in the original post here it is below

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[MSA33]

I would presume the end that goes into the loom as the Vibe optisound 65.4 amplifies through the loom

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[MSA33]

you cannot join the tweeters output and the woofers amplified outputs and expect to get full range output, you'll probably (99%) damage the MMI's built in amplifiers.
the only way to get a full range signal is by using the rear speakers amplified outputs from the MMI unit.....the other option is using a dsp that can recieve high level (amplified) signals from 2 sources ( source 1- tweeters output, source 2-woofers output) correct it (as there is an electronic crossover in the signal chain before the MMI's built in amplifiers so the dsp will need to "correct" the crossover slopes and generate a flat response output for each one of the sources) and combine them for a full range signal.

There is no feedback through the loom to the MMI's amplifier as its an output and now just a pre amp and the 65.4 is the main amplifier which as the front coaxial's have a passover they will separate the sound themselves if that makes sense but there shouldn't be a return into the factory amp on the MMI

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Tell]

you cannot join the tweeters output and the woofers amplified outputs and expect to get full range output, you'll probably (99%) damage the MMI's built in amplifiers.
the only way to get a full range signal is by using the rear speakers amplified outputs from the MMI unit.....the other option is using a dsp that can recieve high level (amplified) signals from 2 sources ( source 1- tweeters output, source 2-woofers output) correct it (as there is an electronic crossover in the signal chain before the MMI's built in amplifiers so the dsp will need to "correct" the crossover slopes and generate a flat response output for each one of the sources) and combine them for a full range signal.

Agreed on possible damaging the unit.

 

[Sandm0n]

There is no feedback through the loom to the MMI's amplifier as its an output and now just a pre amp and the 65.4 is the main amplifier which as the front coaxial's have a passover they will separate the sound themselves if that makes sense but there shouldn't be a return into the factory amp on the MMI

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What do you mean by "There is no feedback through the loom to the MMI's amplifier" ?

As far as I understand and know the whole audio system in the Arona works like this:

There is the dashboard infotainement display unit (which is just a touch screen display), the display is only a display and all the "magic" happens inside the MMI, the MMI "holds" all the infotainement features (GPS, Bluetooth, tuner, audio DSP and class D amplifiers, etc....), there is no audio signal runing in between the dashboard's infotainement display and the MMI, only "control" signal.

The DSP built in the MMI unit splitting and crossing over elctronically the analog signal that goes to the MMI built in amplifiers, there are 3 types of analog signals after the DSP, high pass analog signal going to the tweeters amplifier, bandpass analog signal that goes to the front doors woofers and full range signal that goes to the rear door speakers amplifier.
Unless you used a VCDS and such to re-program the MMI built in DSP it's not possible that you get line level (called also low level or pre amp level) signal/s from the MMI's Quadloc connector.

If you're connecting the speakers outputs in the MMI's Quadloc to your Vibe amplifier you are connecting a high level (amplified) signal to your Vibe amplifier inputs (can only connect it to the high level inputs in the Vibe amplifier, NOT to the RCA inputs!!!).

 

[Sandm0n]

There is no feedback through the loom to the MMI's amplifier as its an output and now just a pre amp and the 65.4 is the main amplifier which as the front coaxial's have a passover they will separate the sound themselves if that makes sense but there shouldn't be a return into the factory amp on the MMI

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Kindly read this thread.