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Front mount intercoolers.

Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Just pondering and wishing id purchased one earlier in the year!

On a BAM Cupra R (and other 18t but dont know the setup).

Is there any way or could it be possible to run the original 2 coolers and a front mount for even more cooling?
Or is that just crazy talk?

Also any disadvantages to the front mount? Any flow restrictions?

And what hidden horrors are there to actually fitting one as i wouldnt want to be messing around?
Is there an inline sensor in the pipework local to the cooler that can be a pain in one way or another?

Cheers Rich
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,231
1,078
Kent
Just be shot of the twin side mount intercoolers and run a decent front mount one.
They're inefficient and would only hamper the installation of a front mount anyway.
Plus you'd be retaining the smaller boost pipes and adding extra unnecessary joints.
As for the sensor you're referring to, that's the MAP sensor which is locating in the hard plastic boost pipe inbetween the nearside headlight and battery.
This pipe is normally kept so you don't have any real reason to attempt to remove the often corroded screws.

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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Thanks Thai W.

Another few questions if i may :)
The long intake hard pipe that runs from the turbo.
Is there any way of cooling the air at that point to try and squeeze another degree or 2 out?

Would some sort of thermal wrap keep heat in or keep unwanted heat out?

I want to try and finnish mechanically once this is done and maybe take the car to Badger5 for a final set up later in 2021 then leave well alone. Then just servicing and maintenance there on in.

Rich
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,231
1,078
Kent
I know some people wrap the charge pipe in heat reflective tape but I'm not sure how well that works and whether it makes a noticeable difference?
If you're looking for proper a cooling effect then water / meth injection is the way to go.
It's one of the things I've already stuck on 2021 do-to list.

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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Interesting. Ive just had a quick read up on the water/meth kit.
Would certainly be belt n braces if i were to get that fitted aswell.
Are you building a track car?
Mine is for road use only with the occasional traffic light grand prix thrown in for good measure.
I'll fit the front mount at some point soon and see how that feels then make my mind up about the water kit.
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,231
1,078
Kent
No mate, mine is most certainly a daily driven road car.
I'm seriously considering WMI though as the K04 frame turbos (mine is hybrid) run friggin hot and I know just how much the additional cooling is welcomed on these.

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Gokiwi64

Geriatric Member
Apr 26, 2014
1,379
722
Hockley, Essex
To my mind the charge pipe runs hot by design, it therefore radiates heat into the engine bay. Wrapping it with heat reflective tapes does nothing other than reflect some of the engine bay heat away from an already hot pipe. It maybe best to use exhaust wrap on it preventing that extra heat from being radiated out and concentrate it towards the intercooler.
I too have a hybrid and it definately runs hotter than the old 023S so anything you can do to cool the intake charge must help - intake spacer to stop radiated head from the head for example, water meth injection etc
 

Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Thanks both.
I'll get the intercooler in the new year and see how it goes.
My car has a standard turbo so unsure weather the water cooling as well would make any difference.

Saying that, ive spent a lot more and got a lot less for my money in the past so its not out of the question lol.

I get why the charge pipe is designed to run hot but asks more questions than answers.

Stopping heat soak from the engine could have a positive OR negative effect. Who knows.......
 

CheltLeonFr

Active Member
Nov 29, 2020
42
22
Cheltenham
20201231_154326.jpg

Just finished installing my welly cooler setup today, took it for a blast down the road and sounding sweet and pulling hard!!!
 
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CheltLeonFr

Active Member
Nov 29, 2020
42
22
Cheltenham
Personally I prefer to cut things the right size so they actually fit without been forced into place.

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Unfortunately the 63mm to 51mm reducer doesn't allow too much trimming as I still need a jubilee clips worth of silicone to clamp onto.
This combined with the huge alloy 90 bend from creations motorsport makes it a little tight and I dont want to cut the beaded end off the 90 alloy because then im in danger of the boost pipe blowing off.
The way it sits is actually ok because there are recesses in the underside of the bonnet which is conveniently where the boost pipe is so it has minimal contact with the boost pipe.
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
Unfortunately the 63mm to 51mm reducer doesn't allow too much trimming as I still need a jubilee clips worth of silicone to clamp onto.
This combined with the huge alloy 90 bend from creations motorsport makes it a little tight and I dont want to cut the beaded end off the 90 alloy because then im in danger of the boost pipe blowing off.
The way it sits is actually ok because there are recesses in the underside of the bonnet which is conveniently where the boost pipe is so it has minimal contact with the boost pipe.

Mate where and how much did the shopping list cost? I’m going to swap my charge pipe and inlet out for a BAM one to avoid the dodgy charge pipe over the TIP


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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Anyone know what the baffle does on the standard BAM charge pipe? Just been looking on ebay and you can buy them without. Worth it or waste of money?
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
I’ve seen guides on how to remove the baffle destructively. Apparently improves flow?


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CheltLeonFr

Active Member
Nov 29, 2020
42
22
Cheltenham
Mate where and how much did the shopping list cost? I’m going to swap my charge pipe and inlet out for a BAM one to avoid the dodgy charge pipe over the TIP


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It was a combo of creations motorsport and ASH hoses for all my pipework. I actually didn't need as much as I ordered because the creations motorsports alloy pipes are massive! Hence the height of the boost pipe people are commenting about. I physically can't get it any lower but it doesn't affect anything so I'm happy. So here is a list of my parts in order from turbo round to inlet:
63mm-51mm silicone reducer (for top of turbo housing)
63mm 90 degree alloy elbow
63mm 45 degree silicone elbow with n75 and DV self seal take offs
63mm 90 degree alloy elbow
63mm 90 degree silicone elbow
63mm alloy coupler (100mm long)
76mm to 63mm silicone 90 degree reducer
Then the intercooler (550x300x76)
76mm to 63mm 90 degree silicone reducer
63mm alloy coupler 200mm long
63mm 90 degree silicone elbow
63mm forge map sensor tube
63mm inlet to intercooler silicone hose
I used the jcs hi grip jubilee clamps to secure
Pipework cost about 140 quid
Intercooler cost 80 quid
Clamps cost about 20 quid
Its the take offs and the forge map sensor that add cost on as these were an extra 70 quid so complete setup cost about 300 odd quid but as I said I bout extra that I didnt actually need so I have 2 spare alloy 90s aswell as some silicone bits.
I know what ur saying about the charge pipe going over the rocker cover but I've bought some heat tape that will hopefully help keep things fairly cool
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
It was a combo of creations motorsport and ASH hoses for all my pipework. I actually didn't need as much as I ordered because the creations motorsports alloy pipes are massive! Hence the height of the boost pipe people are commenting about. I physically can't get it any lower but it doesn't affect anything so I'm happy. So here is a list of my parts in order from turbo round to inlet:
63mm-51mm silicone reducer (for top of turbo housing)
63mm 90 degree alloy elbow
63mm 45 degree silicone elbow with n75 and DV self seal take offs
63mm 90 degree alloy elbow
63mm 90 degree silicone elbow
63mm alloy coupler (100mm long)
76mm to 63mm silicone 90 degree reducer
Then the intercooler (550x300x76)
76mm to 63mm 90 degree silicone reducer
63mm alloy coupler 200mm long
63mm 90 degree silicone elbow
63mm forge map sensor tube
63mm inlet to intercooler silicone hose
I used the jcs hi grip jubilee clamps to secure
Pipework cost about 140 quid
Intercooler cost 80 quid
Clamps cost about 20 quid
Its the take offs and the forge map sensor that add cost on as these were an extra 70 quid so complete setup cost about 300 odd quid but as I said I bout extra that I didnt actually need so I have 2 spare alloy 90s aswell as some silicone bits.
I know what ur saying about the charge pipe going over the rocker cover but I've bought some heat tape that will hopefully help keep things fairly cool

The charge that comes out of these turbos is pretty hot as it goes so be careful you don’t trap heat instead of radiate it mate


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